Details of your tuned LNF
Hmm strange because I have found the opposite to be true. Unless you are comparing the same car with different A/Fs it is not a valid comparision as some LNFs do make more power than others. The first LNF I dyno tuned was almost 4 years ago I will use it as an example. I started at 0.82 lambda car made 272 whp 320 wrtq. Same tune except 0.84 lambda car made 277 whp 324 wtrq. Same tune except 0.86 lambda car made 282 whp 325 wrtq. Same tune except 0.88 lambda car made 288 whp 324 wrtq. Same tune at 0.89 lambda car made 291 whp 322 wrtq. This was with stock timing and 20 psi on 93 octane. I ended up at 16* and 0.89 lambda and the car made 314 whp 330 wtrq.
The point is. Peak power may be done with a leaner afr, but longitivity of engine will decrease with the driver depending on driving habits. So smart thing to do would be tune it richer.. If the owner wants leaner then so be it.. But honestly, a couple hp is not worth it
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WG duty cycle is in the 80-85% range from 2200-3500 RPMs to keep it from spiking 28 psi. It will not hit really hard (28 psi spikes make over 400 wrtq) but will have a smooth power curve. Just for ***** and giggles I will try 0.82 lambda just so you see the difference between 0.82 and 0.88 lambda at WOT regardless of timing. You first file in your car was 0.84-0.85 midrange leaning out to 0.88 up top and it was faster at 0.88 flat PE lambda last time.
I used to rev mine to 7400 once in a while with no issues.
I used to rev mine to 7400 once in a while with no issues.
Next sunday its on, pending it isnt raining again like this weekend....
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Very happy with my new tune. Term is really helpful and knows his stuff.
No torque management, 24lbs of boost, 16* of timing and my car actually ran harder at .82 lambda then .88, so we ended up with .82 and 6600rpm redline...
Maybe David will chime in with the details..either way, when i get my clutch installed, this thing will be much better...Still a very smooth driving car btw too
No torque management, 24lbs of boost, 16* of timing and my car actually ran harder at .82 lambda then .88, so we ended up with .82 and 6600rpm redline...
Maybe David will chime in with the details..either way, when i get my clutch installed, this thing will be much better...Still a very smooth driving car btw too
Very happy with my new tune. Term is really helpful and knows his stuff.
No torque management, 24lbs of boost, 16* of timing and my car actually ran harder at .82 lambda then .88, so we ended up with .82 and 6600rpm redline...
Maybe David will chime in with the details..either way, when i get my clutch installed, this thing will be much better...Still a very smooth driving car btw too
No torque management, 24lbs of boost, 16* of timing and my car actually ran harder at .82 lambda then .88, so we ended up with .82 and 6600rpm redline...
Maybe David will chime in with the details..either way, when i get my clutch installed, this thing will be much better...Still a very smooth driving car btw too

Once you get the clutch in it will spin and, if it hooks, will pull even harder than it already does LOL. Last edited by Terminator2; Jun 12, 2012 at 10:15 AM.
Mine only held with a slower boost ramp and 21 psi, as opposed to a faster boost ramp and 24 psi. I never had slip with any of my gas tunes. The slower boost ramp feels slower, but according to my times from 60-100 on HPT, it's really only a couple of tenths slower than the quicker boost ramp. I still can't run 24 psi, even on the slower boost ramp, but at least I don't have any oil blow-by in my piping with the lower boost pressure.
I've had slip on my old 30psi tune with the stock turbo if I punched it at 55 or below in 3rd. With my BNR I haven't noticed any slip. Even with 28 psi but the boost comes on slow for some reason. I have a mechanical issue causing me to have a slow boost ramp. I hit full boost by 4k but at 3.5k ill be at. Like 15 psi. Its an issue I may not bother fixing because I like it. Lol. So much easier on my clutch and trans.
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i am really pleased how it drives, and surprised how smooth it is with all torque management removed and more power then before. honestly drives the same to me as far as smoothness...

too bad 2nd and 3rd gear is shot
i want some vette kills on my list and some 12 second passes at the track...hahaha
lol, yeah, but unfortunately, in sarasota and bradenton, thats what everyone wants to put it in, so i might as well let the dealer do it, unless you wanna take on the job and save me some money?...lol
i am really pleased how it drives, and surprised how smooth it is with all torque management removed and more power then before. honestly drives the same to me as far as smoothness...
too bad 2nd and 3rd gear is shot
i want some vette kills on my list and some 12 second passes at the track...hahaha
i am really pleased how it drives, and surprised how smooth it is with all torque management removed and more power then before. honestly drives the same to me as far as smoothness...

too bad 2nd and 3rd gear is shot
i want some vette kills on my list and some 12 second passes at the track...hahaha
1st gear at full throttle is insane now at 100% torque but at the track with all the VHT tracton compound you will no longer bog down out of the hole it will take off hard rather than bogging down . Part throttle settings are different than before as your max airload torque is 100% all the way from idle. Cam settings are different as well.
I've had slip on my old 30psi tune with the stock turbo if I punched it at 55 or below in 3rd. With my BNR I haven't noticed any slip. Even with 28 psi but the boost comes on slow for some reason. I have a mechanical issue causing me to have a slow boost ramp. I hit full boost by 4k but at 3.5k ill be at. Like 15 psi. Its an issue I may not bother fixing because I like it. Lol. So much easier on my clutch and trans.
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its a wonder u didnt blow anything up with a 30psi tune Dart...
well, just spoke with H3 automotive, and they have done a few cobalts, and a few saturn redlines, so they would do it for 800, but no warranty since i have my own parts...*** chevy said they had no experience with my car so now im sketchy on them.
well, just spoke with H3 automotive, and they have done a few cobalts, and a few saturn redlines, so they would do it for 800, but no warranty since i have my own parts...*** chevy said they had no experience with my car so now im sketchy on them.
You just got lucky. Most with 30 psi tunes especially those on pump gas end up cracking a piston due to the extreme cylinder temps that come with 30 psi at 3000 RPMs. It is actually safer to run 30 psi with a bigger turbo because it spools later and as RPMs rise piston speed increases.
The point of the 30+ lbs spike is tq. Low end! What is low end tq caused from? Quick ramp with high load (boost) so that is irresponsible as a tuner.. And the other thing is you have stock maps. So you can't even see past 24-25 lbs via hptuners . A mechanical gauge can still be wrong. You wanna go based off what ye map is seeing vs Baro pressure. So yes a 30 lbs tune is irresponsible, wrong to do (unless the owner wants it) which is still irresponsible on the customers side because once they'll blow they will blame the the tune. You say your engine is fine, would you like me to tear it apart and show you the differences of what a slow ramp tune without 30 psi looks like? Cuz your pistons will have heat everywhere on the skirts and ring lands will be weak...



