Details of your tuned LNF
05-17-2012, 01:17 PM
#76
tq management is tq vs gear vs rpm vs load vs tps.
There are alot of tq managment setting within the lnf ecu whch we cant even mess with but the ones we can are, tq by gear, tq by rpm, tq by load vs rpm , and more. All of the things listed including wgdc control boost. So depending on setup, you can make it custom to the needs of the driver.
There are alot of tq managment setting within the lnf ecu whch we cant even mess with but the ones we can are, tq by gear, tq by rpm, tq by load vs rpm , and more. All of the things listed including wgdc control boost. So depending on setup, you can make it custom to the needs of the driver.
05-17-2012, 01:27 PM
#78
I had that tune for a bit and I had him update it with his most recent setting which have been awesome. first gear feels almost stock for the first few thousand rpms and low throttle load. Totally makes the nature of the car feel more OEM but fast as hell.
05-17-2012, 01:33 PM
#80
Lol from what i do i am very biased on what i do. Most "TUNERS" do what they want with the car. I ask what the customer wants and i work with what i have to give it. So if the owner of the car wants a conservative tune, Ill give him exactly that by ramping boost in slowly and giving mild timing .. By working with mals, dals, and wgdc. Now if the owner wants less power vs gear aka tq vs gear i will limit the power vs rpm vs gear on the gears wanted. I mean there is much more to do just the little stuff
05-17-2012, 02:17 PM
#82
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^^^it really is, and its stating to get better thanks to james and cuda.
So, if i have no torque management but a a nice and steady boost ramp with medium timing 15-16*, then that sounds like the best setup???
So, if i have no torque management but a a nice and steady boost ramp with medium timing 15-16*, then that sounds like the best setup???
05-17-2012, 02:49 PM
#86
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Lol just because a car shows no kr doesnt mean its safe. If i give someone 28lbs and 20* on 93 and he doesnt get kr in the logs. What happens when he goes to another town and the elevation changes 200 ft and temps by 5* and gas is terrible? Detonation and etc. So just because a car can take a certain amount of timing, doenst mean its reliable. Reliability is somthing that means at all times. So for a dd car its best to keep boost at a slow ram and a steady 24lbs or so depending on mods. Timing wise, it all depends on fuel. But for 93 15-16 is easily attainable if the car takes it and that is within reaso for a dd. Anything above that is kinda iffy if a dd. And the main reason is detonation. WOT afr (lambda), most tuners will tune it to around .88-.90 lambda because this is where the most power is made !! But for a dd car its harder on the internals if you rape it quite often or get into boost often. ( oVER TIME THE RINGLANDS WILL CRANCK AND GET HEAT SPOTS) Do the the tremendous egts caused from the lack of wot richer afr. So for a dd car i recommend .84-.82 dependong on where you live. Higher elevations i recommend .82-.80 just because the shitty air quality.
You can get more attainable power with faster boost ramo but this is less safe on the engine, trany and clutch. Mainly because the turbo spools so quick, which causes a lot of stress and what gives you the high tq readings. (usually) When you have a slower ramp youll loose your peak power meaning the spike, but in returrn youlll be able to run a little more timing midrange and also have a more linear power.
But the key point to a cars life is the driver. You can have a tune so conservative and is spot on but have a ******* owner that romps on it 24/7 and it will blow. Because the frictional componets geeting so hot from its friction spots. ( rings, ringlands depnding on clearances, and etc)
hope this helps!
You can get more attainable power with faster boost ramo but this is less safe on the engine, trany and clutch. Mainly because the turbo spools so quick, which causes a lot of stress and what gives you the high tq readings. (usually) When you have a slower ramp youll loose your peak power meaning the spike, but in returrn youlll be able to run a little more timing midrange and also have a more linear power.
But the key point to a cars life is the driver. You can have a tune so conservative and is spot on but have a ******* owner that romps on it 24/7 and it will blow. Because the frictional componets geeting so hot from its friction spots. ( rings, ringlands depnding on clearances, and etc)
hope this helps!
05-17-2012, 03:01 PM
#87
Boost isnt power ( efficiency is) More efficient the engine is with health and superior mods like a intake and catless downpipe will determine what is attainable on power. Like if you give a car slower ramp it may only get 300whp because it dont have the aggressive ramp. But the 300whp wont fall off as quick. Because with less ramp youll be able to obtain more timing in areas. ( Heat ).
What is more reliable? timing or boost? Pressure or a fixed targeted spark that can be limited. The true honest answer is timing mainly because its force inducted. Higher boost will cause dramatic temps . If the temps get high enough (well you know what happens). So with timing, the heat isnt as much, and you always have knock retard there to decrease timing if there is a hint of detonation.
Some people look at it the opposite way and you can, but it is honestly more reliable to run a little more timing then to give the car a quicker boost ramp and more boost!
power wise for peak power it will be boost less timing (which is still fine, but if high boost and high timing. Then that car is a ticking time bomb)
What is more reliable? timing or boost? Pressure or a fixed targeted spark that can be limited. The true honest answer is timing mainly because its force inducted. Higher boost will cause dramatic temps . If the temps get high enough (well you know what happens). So with timing, the heat isnt as much, and you always have knock retard there to decrease timing if there is a hint of detonation.
Some people look at it the opposite way and you can, but it is honestly more reliable to run a little more timing then to give the car a quicker boost ramp and more boost!
power wise for peak power it will be boost less timing (which is still fine, but if high boost and high timing. Then that car is a ticking time bomb)
Last edited by Chevycobaltss3; 05-17-2012 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-17-2012, 03:11 PM
#88
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meaning like 55% power in 1st, 2nd 85%, then 100% 3-5th?
or meaning like no full boost till over 4k rpms in any gear?
sorry, i may sound like a *******, but with turbos and tuning i am shrek( or green)...lol
or meaning like no full boost till over 4k rpms in any gear?
sorry, i may sound like a *******, but with turbos and tuning i am shrek( or green)...lol
05-17-2012, 03:24 PM
#89
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i understand we dont wanna give away secrets or complete details, or a lot of guys will possibly lose money on tunes, but this was for me to get knowledge for my tuner to get the most outta my tune that i want. i cant talk to him much, so i have to try and ask on here..lol
05-17-2012, 08:29 PM
#92
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Boost isnt power ( efficiency is) More efficient the engine is with health and superior mods like a intake and catless downpipe will determine what is attainable on power. Like if you give a car slower ramp it may only get 300whp because it dont have the aggressive ramp. But the 300whp wont fall off as quick. Because with less ramp youll be able to obtain more timing in areas. ( Heat ).
What is more reliable? timing or boost? Pressure or a fixed targeted spark that can be limited. The true honest answer is timing mainly because its force inducted. Higher boost will cause dramatic temps . If the temps get high enough (well you know what happens). So with timing, the heat isnt as much, and you always have knock retard there to decrease timing if there is a hint of detonation.
Some people look at it the opposite way and you can, but it is honestly more reliable to run a little more timing then to give the car a quicker boost ramp and more boost!
power wise for peak power it will be boost less timing (which is still fine, but if high boost and high timing. Then that car is a ticking time bomb)
What is more reliable? timing or boost? Pressure or a fixed targeted spark that can be limited. The true honest answer is timing mainly because its force inducted. Higher boost will cause dramatic temps . If the temps get high enough (well you know what happens). So with timing, the heat isnt as much, and you always have knock retard there to decrease timing if there is a hint of detonation.
Some people look at it the opposite way and you can, but it is honestly more reliable to run a little more timing then to give the car a quicker boost ramp and more boost!
power wise for peak power it will be boost less timing (which is still fine, but if high boost and high timing. Then that car is a ticking time bomb)
Something interesting back in 04 when a friend had his SRT-4 tune at Livernoise, the tuner would pull the plug to read the detonation and gauge the amount of boost/timing input for his car. Back then, he had the FAST and I don't think there was an option for knock displace during tunning.
05-17-2012, 09:12 PM
#93
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Well, hopefully David(or Term2) can adjust my tune now that i have every bolt-on now, and see what i can get out of it.
I will post back on here with the results...meanwhile, more people can chime in with what kind of tune they have...
I will post back on here with the results...meanwhile, more people can chime in with what kind of tune they have...
Last edited by AARON-SS-TC; 05-21-2012 at 10:51 AM.
05-28-2012, 01:14 PM
#96
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BYT tunes back in the day had zero torque management. It was a bitch in first gear, i'll tell ya that. The jerking was so violent that if you touched the pedal to quickly, the car lunged forward abruptly and slipped your foot off the throttle which immediately jerked the car to a slowed roll which in turn made your foot violently hit the throttle again, and so on and so forth... just picture that... lol.
I had that tune for a bit and I had him update it with his most recent setting which have been awesome. first gear feels almost stock for the first few thousand rpms and low throttle load. Totally makes the nature of the car feel more OEM but fast as hell.
I had that tune for a bit and I had him update it with his most recent setting which have been awesome. first gear feels almost stock for the first few thousand rpms and low throttle load. Totally makes the nature of the car feel more OEM but fast as hell.
I attached 2 screen shots of an example of my personal tune vs a byt tune. Mind you my car is setup for e47 and this byt tune is a gas tune. Even with that, his air loads are pretty signifigantly greater than mine in the higher load areas. Combine super high air loads with super aggressive boost ramp and you're asking for issues and a rediculous amount of torque steer particularly down low.
It's really a tuning preference in the end, but I would just personally never dial in a car that way with or without torque management.
Last edited by 09CobaltSS1; 04-26-2015 at 07:40 PM.
05-28-2012, 05:43 PM
#99
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like me, i dont want much management at all anymore..i wanna be able to drive the car and it not drive me.
i see byt has full boost at 2700 and you have it at 4500. i was thinking around 3500 for me in 2nd gear through 5th, and leave first alone at 55%. maybe raise the redline in first and second to 6500 as well, then leave the rest at 6200.
we will see what i end up with. too bad my new clutch isnt in already.
i see byt has full boost at 2700 and you have it at 4500. i was thinking around 3500 for me in 2nd gear through 5th, and leave first alone at 55%. maybe raise the redline in first and second to 6500 as well, then leave the rest at 6200.
we will see what i end up with. too bad my new clutch isnt in already.
Last edited by AARON-SS-TC; 05-28-2012 at 05:48 PM.
05-29-2012, 04:07 PM
#100
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.77 is getiing close to the point of it rich knocking like a diesel and it is taxing the crap out of the stock fuel system to the point to where injection window misfire is likely even on the stock turbo. There is no point to tuning richer than 0.86 lambda period on pump gas and no richer than 0.88 lambda on E-47 and 0.89 lambda on E-85.