OP, what are you doing for your fueling? I saw that you mentioned you've got a 50/50 meth kit on there, so that would help a bit. Then you mentioned though that you're going to have a tune for use without meth, so what are your fueling mods, and are you finding that you're getting enough fuel with the setup you've got?

I've been tossing ideas around about what I'm going to do for fueling, and I'm curious to know what you've done so far to make it work.

 

Nice graph. Give us some details on this. Fueling, hardware on the car. Is it FBO? Meth? revving to 7.5rpm? stock motor? etc lol. is this 6758?

 

On edge of getting S20g... Hurry up and post details on your dyno to hopefully change my mind please.

 

wait, it will be worth it. We all could have gone the s20g route, it wont be the same though.

 

The BNR is better than the 20g. 20g isn't really a logical option.

 

Matt are you talking about a 20g or S20g? There is a difference.

 

Any 20g.

 

I will agree with it being an older turbo, but it can still make good power if maintenance is kept up on it(Prone to leaking). I wouldn't say the BNR is better or vice versa. Its all about application for your car. I have a BNR and know the potential of a S20G(500whp), its been done.

 

One word of warning about the BNR. I heard BNR went to divider-less spacers for the exhaust side. If you got one with the divider in it, I would inspect/swap it with one without the divider.

A friend of mine with the divider in the BNR spacer had his literally melt away due to our engine's high EGTs, causing turbine wheel damage...

...which caused a turbo rotational assembly imbalance
...which then caused the turbo bearing to start going
...which then caused metal bits to drop into the oil sump/pan
...which then caused it to potentially be sucked up by the oil pump or damage it and caused the screen to get clogged
...which then caused potential oil starvation and oil bypass valve to activate, allowing the bits to go up into the engine and bypass the oil filter, causing the cam phaser screens to clog
...which caused phaser malfunction, turbo seal to start going from lack of oil and the rotational imbalance, cooking the chain guide tensioner until failure from the turbo heat (causing timing chain issues when the chain then had slack in it, damaging an intake cam sprocket and breaking the guide.. causing more chunks to fall into the oil sump/pan)
...and possibly damaged a piston oil squirter when it became clogged (could have also caused piston failure had the pistons not been Wisecos).

Complete cascading failure in other words. He's looking into a new engine.

 

so thats the real story?
damn...i feel bad for andrew now that i know.

glad i'm staying away from that turbo.

 

If you read his response, he's talking about the spacer, not the turbo itself. I'd be glad to show you what the BNR can do.

 

i think the real reason 20gs are fail is because they are journal bearing.
why would you want a turbo that spools 500-1k rpms later?

i think the more and more turbos get developed and innovations come out the closer you'll see to them feeling like superchargers.

thats pretty much what borg warner does with the ball bearing setup.
it may take a sec to spool, but its hardly noticeable.

 

Well not to name names, but I'm about positive at this point that's what happened. All of the symptoms/findings so far lead to that conclusion.

-Spacer divider melted
-Turbo bearing going out
-Oil smoke sometimes coming from exhaust pipe
-Tensioner keeps breaking from what appears to be excess heat
-Tensioner guide keeps breaking due to loose chain because of tensioner
-Metal crud, plastic bits from broken tensioner guide, and piston squirter found in oil pan
-Oil pump screen partially clogged by various crud
-Intake sprocket damaged due to chain slack
-Oil filter imploded due to amount of deposits
-Cam phasers screens highly clogged
-Cam phasers malfunctioning (even after total phaser replacement and cleaning of screens... found another clogged/imploded oil filter that was potentially causing oil pressure fluctuation and re-clogging of screens once the oil bypass activated)
-Consistently higher than normal coolant/oil temps (not anything dangerous, but a bit unusual/suspicious)


As stated, the turbo itself has been a great performer. I just urge immediate checking/swapping of the spacer if they installed one with the divider. I believe that the material used was insufficient to meet the heat requirements, especially for people that are focused on leaning out their tunes or otherwise raising the EGTs that the divider in the spacer would experience.

 

When I installed my BNR I cut the little center section out with a torch and sanded it smooth. No issues so far. I love this turbo.

 

Oh, I'm keeping up with your progress....lol

 

Haha. I got a vid of me racing a built Ralliart with an fp green but it's one of those night videos so all you see is headlights.

 

Those are all my kills

 

well i was gonna buy this efr from someone else, but i'll just wait now since its about to released.

 

It is released, but on backorder without a clear lead time. If you can get your hands on an EFR and then buy our exhaust housing, that would be your best bet.

 

or you can wait for the ZFR and point me in the direction of the person selling the efr

 

Matt is there a chance we can speak over the phone?

 

Whats up? I'll be out for the next couple hours, but possibly after that. I responded to a PM from Term if that was the same inquiry.