2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Hesitation and Boost at idle Issue!

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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 04:49 PM
  #26  
80vetteL82's Avatar
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From: Waltham MA
Originally Posted by 1SLOLT1
Wow so I spoke to the service manager he said the codes were logged codes and that the check engine light came on while I was in 3rd gear doing 75 MPH I was like wtf??? He said they cleared the codes and the car is running fine and I told him that the lower TMap sensor was probably bad he said if it happens again to bring it in again. I took the car in with my Down pipe still installed they didn't say nothing about it!
That blows that they wouldnt just fix it now. Did they at least look at the MAP sensor connections?
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 04:51 PM
  #27  
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From: mech
**** no they arent going to look at it after they 'think' its fixed. Took the car in 4 times for the same issue and told them to check the lower sensor the third time i brought it back, they still didnt fix it.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 05:23 PM
  #28  
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From: Waltham MA
Originally Posted by 09SlobaltSS
**** no they arent going to look at it after they 'think' its fixed. Took the car in 4 times for the same issue and told them to check the lower sensor the third time i brought it back, they still didnt fix it.
I guess my dealer is better than I though.... lol

They actually took the time to diagnose the problem (3 days) the first time I brought it in for the issue. They even gave me a free rental... 2010 Traverse lol
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #29  
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
Originally Posted by 80vetteL82
That blows that they wouldnt just fix it now. Did they at least look at the MAP sensor connections?

Nope didn't even look at it.....here are the codes that they found and cleared. Drove the car home seemed fine but I know I will be back in there again in the future.

P2178
P0236
P2261
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 06:43 PM
  #30  
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Well I have driven the car a lot since yesterday and I don't get the hesitation while cruising down highway and the boost gauge stays at -20 vac at idle not jumping around. Well hopefully its fixed and stays that way.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:40 AM
  #31  
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I can't imagine it'll be fixed seeing it doesn't sound like they did anything other than clear the codes. Id bet that the smptoms will return in time. Let us know. Good luck.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:51 AM
  #32  
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From: mech
i actually found a way to set the CEL off(if the problem wasnt really fixed). i found this out the third time i drove off from the dealers. take off slow, shift to second at 9 mph, then floor it for no more than 1 second. then let off completely. if the problem is there you will see it really quickly when the car starts to jerk. i mean really jerk, not just going from accelerating to nothing. i did this a couple times and the CEL came right back on, i wasnt more than a mile from the dealer and drove it right back to them and had them scan the codes while it was parked and running.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #33  
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
Originally Posted by 09SlobaltSS
i actually found a way to set the CEL off(if the problem wasnt really fixed). i found this out the third time i drove off from the dealers. take off slow, shift to second at 9 mph, then floor it for no more than 1 second. then let off completely. if the problem is there you will see it really quickly when the car starts to jerk. i mean really jerk, not just going from accelerating to nothing. i did this a couple times and the CEL came right back on, i wasnt more than a mile from the dealer and drove it right back to them and had them scan the codes while it was parked and running.


I tried this a few times and it didn't do anything
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 02:46 PM
  #34  
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goes to show GMS1 is garbage
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 07:07 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by sheldon729
goes to show GMS1 is garbage
no, those who cannot read a schematics are .........
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 07:13 PM
  #36  
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
Originally Posted by sheldon729
goes to show GMS1 is garbage


Its not garbage I like the idea it keeps the Warranty It gives a decent Power upgrade **** I am pushing 300 WHP and 335 WTQ with the GMS1 there are aftermarket tunes at the same numbers.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #37  
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Sorry but you must have an aftermarket tune on top of your gms1. There's no way your making those numbers from your gms1 and your catless dp.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 11:43 PM
  #38  
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
Originally Posted by DoMiStIc_RuSh_06
Sorry but you must have an aftermarket tune on top of your gms1. There's no way your making those numbers from your gms1 and your catless dp.


Sorry to tell ya but I only have the GMS1 TUNE believe it or not I have no reason to lie about what I have done to my car.

Do u think i would take my car into the dealership with aftermarket tune?

Damn haters
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 09:48 AM
  #39  
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From: Waltham MA
Originally Posted by 1SLOLT1
Sorry to tell ya but I only have the GMS1 TUNE believe it or not I have no reason to lie about what I have done to my car.

Do u think i would take my car into the dealership with aftermarket tune?

Damn haters
SAE or STD numbers?

What was smoothing set to?

Honestly man, I love my GMS1 and the power increases are great! I picked up around 45WHP and 77WTQ!!! However, 300/335 seems a little high (unless smoothing was off and your numbers are STD or something) On a dynojet, set to SAE results with smoothing @ 3 or 4 I think, I made around 280WHP and 305WTQ.
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 09:51 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by sheldon729
goes to show GMS1 is garbage
Care to elaborate? It was a problem with the sensor being installed improperly. Clearly the sensors arent "garbage" seeing a ton of guys are using the GMS1 sensors with theyre aftermarket tunes.
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 07:02 PM
  #41  
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So I was having a similar problem that a couple of you were having, surging or fluttering at steady throttle and an intermitten CEL, typically after driving it a little harder. Took it to the dealer to have that fixed (along with a couple rattles). They didn't mention what codes were logged but said they reprogrammed the ECU to fix the problem. Thing is...after reprogramming the ECU it basically took the GMS1 off and felt just like it did in stock form!

I take it back and they reprogram it again and this time it seems to be close to what it had but not as powerful as the original Stage 1...the boost used to spike around 26 and occasionally just a little more but now 24 is the max and typically 22-23. It also doesn't spin up as fast as it did before. It's like I'm only getting about 75% of the original Stage 1 kit. Is this happening to you all as well? Feels like they detuned the kit now, and that's not cool; I paid for more performance than that.
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