Lash Adjusters?
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From: South Charleston, WV
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From: PA/MD line
Got car back today, they listened and heard a ticking also, but they replaced a cover over the fuel pump that supposedly had a bulletin because of rattling noise. So bullshit but I'm keeping records and will be pulling cable cover off during weekend. Maybe tomorrow if I got time
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From: Edmonton
Got car back today, they listened and heard a ticking also, but they replaced a cover over the fuel pump that supposedly had a bulletin because of rattling noise. So bullshit but I'm keeping records and will be pulling cable cover off during weekend. Maybe tomorrow if I got time
Lmk your update when you find out dude... still curious.
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From: Edmonton
You don't have to over-rev to have this happen, but if you did, it will happen much, much sooner. Increased boost also causes this. Factory springs aren't strong enough to support high boost at high rpms and thereinlies the problem. ZZP springs or head will fix it. That's all there is to it, or run low boost at high rpms, or a mild tune.
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From: South Charleston, WV
Just a 32mm socket. The same one used to pull your oil cap off. You will have to pull the timing chain tensioner on the back of the motor. Then pull the caps on the camshaft and raise it very carefully. Also notice the numbered caps and the arrows pointing towards the gear end of the camshaft. You have to put those back in order and pointing the right direction or you can scar your cam and those caps. With the ability to lift the camshaft up you should be able to easily place the rockers. DO NOT mess with the timing chain. Don't try to move it off of the gears. When you get your tensioner back in after you have bolted down the cam, take a wrench(7/8 seemed to fit well) and spin the camshaft on the notched hex part behind the gear to pull out any slack between the two, only do this after the tensioner is in or it could jump timing and possibly bend a valve. Torque specs on the caps are 89inch/lbs. I just snugged them up to a reasonable amount. You may get a 3/8 drive torque wrench if you want to do this.
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Joined: 03-20-09
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From: Montreal
You dont need to remove the timing chain tensionner, what i did is just loosen the bolts on the caps that hold what keep the cams in place, go evenly, and slowly. Dont remove them, just loosen. Just enought so you can remove or add a rockers., i used a magnet to remove the lash adjusters.
This way no need to mess with the timing chain etc...
Retight to the right spec like FasterIsBetter posted and it should be good, at least i had no problem since.
I have 8 lash adjusters left, brand new, if you need any my offer still stand, 5$ each+shipping.
This way no need to mess with the timing chain etc...
Retight to the right spec like FasterIsBetter posted and it should be good, at least i had no problem since.
I have 8 lash adjusters left, brand new, if you need any my offer still stand, 5$ each+shipping.
I was told this at one point also.. pull the bloody valve cover dude. I've had broken lash adjusters and rockers wedged in my head twice. It's all cured now with a ZZP stage 1 head, and the lash adjusters aren't the problem, it's the weak factory springs being pushed out at high rpms with increased boost causing them to pop the rockers. ZZP springs will cure it, or if it's too costly as was my case, just get the ZZP head kit for the same price as Gm's factory crap.
If it sounds like a Subie, you definately have either a broken lash adjuster, or a rocker arm sittin around in ur valve cover somewhere. If u throw another one, it will become more noticeable, have way less power, and then finally, start to throw misfire codes. I purposely threw the 2nd one in order to get GM to look at the bloody car since nobody would touch it by going from what I had said. They will only pop the cover if you have a CEL, which unfortunately, isn't going to happen since this is a mechanical issue that won't throw a CEL until it becomes severe. And, by that time, you will most likely need more work done than what they're willing to do under warranty, which was also my case. It broke again a month later without ever going over 6000 rpm.
I warn you now, don't trust GM techs, this site has more information than 99% of those guys have on our cars. I got lucky and found a good mechanic at one of my local GM dealers who actually listened to my concerns, and did what I asked, which was to pull the cover and LOOK. Everything's fixed now, and I'm happy with that particular GM dealership, whereas the rest in my city can jump on a washing machine with their bare ass and rotate on the spin cycle. He fixed my car with the parts I supplied and has done a wonderful job. Couldn't be happier, but he didn't put on my charge pipes tight enough and blew them off last night lol. I fixed that up myself :P
One other thing, you won't be able to hear any difference in the engine bay from having one thrown off. It's not actually contacting with the cam, so it sounds normal.
If it sounds like a Subie, you definately have either a broken lash adjuster, or a rocker arm sittin around in ur valve cover somewhere. If u throw another one, it will become more noticeable, have way less power, and then finally, start to throw misfire codes. I purposely threw the 2nd one in order to get GM to look at the bloody car since nobody would touch it by going from what I had said. They will only pop the cover if you have a CEL, which unfortunately, isn't going to happen since this is a mechanical issue that won't throw a CEL until it becomes severe. And, by that time, you will most likely need more work done than what they're willing to do under warranty, which was also my case. It broke again a month later without ever going over 6000 rpm.
I warn you now, don't trust GM techs, this site has more information than 99% of those guys have on our cars. I got lucky and found a good mechanic at one of my local GM dealers who actually listened to my concerns, and did what I asked, which was to pull the cover and LOOK. Everything's fixed now, and I'm happy with that particular GM dealership, whereas the rest in my city can jump on a washing machine with their bare ass and rotate on the spin cycle. He fixed my car with the parts I supplied and has done a wonderful job. Couldn't be happier, but he didn't put on my charge pipes tight enough and blew them off last night lol. I fixed that up myself :P
One other thing, you won't be able to hear any difference in the engine bay from having one thrown off. It's not actually contacting with the cam, so it sounds normal.
I had four lash adjusters & rockers grenade on me very late this past winter...
I noticed an oil leak two weeks ago saturday, and stopped riving it...
brought it into the dealer, and it turns out one of my rockers came off...
I see a valve spring retainer is nearly popped out too...
so springs are the culprit huh....
dude! that's awesome!!
I hope you have warranty!
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Joined: 05-15-10
Posts: 3,994
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From: South Charleston, WV
You dont need to remove the timing chain tensionner, what i did is just loosen the bolts on the caps that hold what keep the cams in place, go evenly, and slowly. Dont remove them, just loosen. Just enought so you can remove or add a rockers., i used a magnet to remove the lash adjusters.
This way no need to mess with the timing chain etc...
This way no need to mess with the timing chain etc...
Good Luck OP!!
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Joined: 03-20-09
Posts: 408
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From: Montreal
Took like 15 minutes to loosen the caps, change the lash and rocker and retight the caps.
Getting everything out of the way , especially removing the braided line from the turbo was the worst part of the repair for me, that braided line was really tight in the turbo, without much room to work near it...
