So now that my car is fixed and running better then it has for a year or more. My factory clutch is starting to slip abit in the colder weather when I go wot at 3200 rpm. It only slips for a second and then grabs. But still , it's time to possibly replace the clutch. It has never been done yet. The car has been gms1 sense brand new. And has been Hp tuned for the last 4 to 5 years. The car makes about 300 hp and about 340 trq roughly to the wheels. It is a moderate tune. What do you guys use or recommend for my power level that wont slip at wot at 3000rpm and will still feel like the stick pedal feel. I dont want some hugely heavy pedal if I can help it. As close to stock pedal feel would be great that would hold the torque. And roughly what the clutch cost. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

I run south bend stage 4, broke a factory clutch, and 2 clutch masters fx100s. Stage 4 will handle the power no problems, just more grabby and has a little bit of chatter but once it breaks in and your use to it it's alright. I didn't need a throwout bearing spacer for my clutch when I measured it. Whatever clutch you go with you are going to measure the clutch installed height or else you may be pulling the trans again for a blown t.o.b.. the clutch was 700 and then I had to buy a flywheel and flywheel bolts, t.o.b., alignment tool, and fluid. Roughly 1000 bucks from zzp

 

I run the stock one fromTom at Crate engine depot, I’m HP tuned as well and about the same power levels.

 

I honestly don't know what stage technically mine is, previous owner had a tune put on it. Pushes 23 psi and has full bolt ons. Holds its own pretty well against v8s. Every time I saved up money to get it retuned and dyno something broke. And now it just sits unfortunately because it's a coupe and not practical cramming a car seat in the back. And Pennsylvania roads are not kind to lowered cars

 

Does the stock clutch hold your power levels now that it is tuned ? Or is your car only GMS1 ?

 

The KY Performance stage 3 we carry is very popular and has a very nice price.

 

if the Ky stage 3 clutch is used does.it require a spacer for the Tob ? And if so do you stock and see.the spacer also ?

 

I went to the gmpp clutch when I ran my 4.45 trans. It feels like stock, inexpensive, and held my 370whp lnf just fine. Got it from Tom also. I used to come off the line at 4psi boost and it never thought about slipping.

 

How was the Gmpp at wot in third at 300 rpms. My boost ramp is fairly aggressive and hits hard and fast. I dont knowing the Gmpp upgraded clutch would hold the torque of the lnf ? The website on Crateenginedepot says that the upgraded Gmpp clutch is only for the Lsj and not.to be used for the Lnf ??

 

no spacer ever needed with KY Clutch kits

however I would never install a used clutch unless you have the exact original mating flywheel. Best option is always new setup for long term use worry free

 

I had the ky3 when I got my sedan and I really disnt like the pedal feel on it. Engagement and disengagement where awkward to me. I would stall the car so much but that's just me

 

pretty sure many years ago, KY set them up to engage at the top. Since then they have moved the engagement point lower in petal travel, closer location to OEM

 

OP - Put in another stock clutch or a GMPP with a brand new LuK flywheel. Replace all of the hydraulics (clutch line, clutch master and new TOB) and you will be set.

KY clutches are garbage. Period. I ran a stage 3+ and a stage 4. Stage 3+ didn't hold jack **** and the stage 4 was just garbage. The stock clutch held the ZFR like a champ. I only changed it out due to being in there/mileage on my previous Sedan. After going through all of the issues, I pulled the stage 4 out and replaced it with a GMPP and it never once slipped. My Dad now owns the car and still hasn't had one single issue with the GMPP/ZFR combo.

For what it's worth, I'm running a 7163 on ethanol with my current ride, stock clutch. ZERO slip. Didn't slip on a very aggressive E60, stock turbo tune either.

 

So it kinda sounds like my best bet is another stock unit from Gm or the Gmpp upgraded Lsj clutch ? So in regards to the Luk flywheel. What do they cost and where are they bought from ? I see a lot of light weight flywheels from a few companys. Idk if that would be a better idea to use a light weight flywheel or just buy a stock replacement ?

The stock flywheel on CED is $660 dollars . That's crazy... is the Luk flywheel the same as the stock unit but cheaper ?

 

got the car 2 years ago maybe and they told me the clutch was done not long ago but I cant confirm. If it's closer to stock that would be amazing, but the one I had I hated with a passion for that engagement point it always held up tho for the 10k miles I put on it

 

Yes sir. The LuK flywheel is a stock replacement that is far cheaper than the factory FW and is quite robust. LuK is a well known OEM supplier of clutches, hydraulics, flywheels and more.

I'm telling ya, GMPP kit with updated TOB, LuK FW, new solid clutch line, new clutch master cylinder and you will be set for many miles to come.

 

That is definitely what I will buy then is.the GMPP or stocket and the Luk flywheel. And the new line. It seems to be only ten dollars or so. Well worth it. But where would I find the Luk flywheel and the new updated tob ? Thanks

 

The luk flywheel you get it from rockauto for like 90$. Tob and clutch pipe and gmpp kit from zzp maybe also add Flywheel bolts to that list.

Thats what I'm going to be buying but waiting for Blackfriday see if they have any deals even free shipping would be nice

 

I found the Luk flywheel on Amazon for $45 dollars. It says it is the Lfw285 and fits my car it says. And the pic of the back of It says made In Germany. I may just purchase it tonight.

 

Damn thats not bad price tbh

 

I'm not sure why some say made in China versus made in Germany for some.

 

Hey I purchased an LUK flywheel from ZZP if I recall correctly when I replaced the clutch. I am HP tuned to 23 ish psi, my car put down 312HP 345 TQ on the dyno with full bolt ons and the stocker is more than adequate

 

I think I'm going with the Luk flywheel. And then a new stocker from CED. It's only $170 for the clutch and pressure plate. Cant go wrong with that. I'm sure after 10 years my pressure plate has weakened and my disc itself is worn abit. A new unit would no doubt hold my power level also. I only hit and hold 24 psi. I comes on fast and strong. But it should hold just fine. Better then my 120,000 mile stocker.

 

I snapped 2 retaining tabs off if the factory clutch with only 30k on it. Never dumped it or used the flat foot shifting either. Im pushing 23 psi

 

I saw that clutch but you will still need the alignment tool and a new ton and it's almost the same price as the gmpp kit at that point