wisco pistons
wisco pistons
was just wondering how meny people had them. mine are in the car just have to do the timing on it also all i replace was the pistons rod bearings and arp head studes was wondering what kinda break in stuff i should do like oil miles that kinda stuff thank you all. oh i have pics of the build just need to get off my lazy ass and get them off my phone
I'm getting ready to put in those pistons myself. I've done quite a bit of research on this very subject.
Everything that I've found says to follow the break-in given by the manufacturer of the car. I found one case where someone contacted Wiseco about it and posted the conversation. Wiseco said the same thing - "Just follow your vehicles given break in procedure".
The ONLY added cautions that I was able to find was that it's more important to adhere strictly to this break-in AND that for the life of the car to make absolutely sure it's fully warmed up before you drive it hard.
Reason being is that with a Forged process they still have internal tension within themselves and it takes quite a few heat cycles for them to relieve this internal stress. If you don't follow these rules they can go "out of round" and seize up. As for the second part they tend to shrink and expand more with heating and cooling (compared to the stock cast pistons) so if you thrash them when they are still a bit cool there's more slop and you can really bang them up until they get hot, expand and kind of tighten things up.
That's just what I've found in all my research.
Everything that I've found says to follow the break-in given by the manufacturer of the car. I found one case where someone contacted Wiseco about it and posted the conversation. Wiseco said the same thing - "Just follow your vehicles given break in procedure".
The ONLY added cautions that I was able to find was that it's more important to adhere strictly to this break-in AND that for the life of the car to make absolutely sure it's fully warmed up before you drive it hard.
Reason being is that with a Forged process they still have internal tension within themselves and it takes quite a few heat cycles for them to relieve this internal stress. If you don't follow these rules they can go "out of round" and seize up. As for the second part they tend to shrink and expand more with heating and cooling (compared to the stock cast pistons) so if you thrash them when they are still a bit cool there's more slop and you can really bang them up until they get hot, expand and kind of tighten things up.
That's just what I've found in all my research.
Last edited by Zander916; Apr 24, 2011 at 10:36 PM.
Good luck with the rest of it! I can't wait to get back into mine.
Timing really isn't that bad. Can be done in the car. Did you at least deglaze the cylinders? Run a contentional 5w30 penzoil or something for about 500 miles and take it kind of easy with boost but after around 150-200 miles go ahead and run it upto like 4000 rpm's and let it engine break back down to seat the rings better. Then start adding boost while doing it at like 4-500 miles, after 4-500 miles it is pretty much broke in. It really is broke in after the first few heat cycles, but I wouldn't just go hammering on it that soon.
use a good breakin oil, like brad penn, for the first few changes... first crank needs to let it get to operating temp, then change oil... then i'd change the oil after 10-50 miles and then at 500... after that you should be good... if you do break-in on the dyno then i'd say change oil after dyno tune and let it eat... even if its only got 5 miles on it.
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