2007 Chevy Cobalt SS intercooler pump problems.
I can't remember if we've covered this yet and too lazy to go back and read through but do you have any fault codes set? From what I've seen the LSJ formulates it's boost reading from the reading on the MAP sensor. Your MAP sensor could be faulty and reading wrong. As far as that goes your gauge could be faulty as well. How does it feel when you accelerate? If your supercharger actually was only making 3 psi the car should accelerate like an absolute turd.
For you to have that large of vacuum leak I'd think you'd have a high idle rpm and if you looked at the fuel trims with an OBDII reader it should have high fuel trims at idle as well. You could connect the hose that runs to the back side of your bypass solenoid (this line taps directly into intake manifold) directly into a cheap boost gauge to verify the manifold pressure.
For you to have that large of vacuum leak I'd think you'd have a high idle rpm and if you looked at the fuel trims with an OBDII reader it should have high fuel trims at idle as well. You could connect the hose that runs to the back side of your bypass solenoid (this line taps directly into intake manifold) directly into a cheap boost gauge to verify the manifold pressure.
Where is the MAP sensor located? I've changed my gauge; I still have the same results. The car is a snotty little thing, so acceleration is fine.
Should I change my MAP sensor? If so, which one should I buy?
P.S. I cleaned my throttle body, it was filthy.
I have no fault codes. The only fault code I had was for my intercooler pump; which was fixed. Since the fix, there have no fault codes.
Where is the MAP sensor located? I've changed my gauge; I still have the same results. The car is a snotty little thing, so acceleration is fine.
Should I change my MAP sensor? If so, which one should I buy?
P.S. I cleaned my throttle body, it was filthy.
Where is the MAP sensor located? I've changed my gauge; I still have the same results. The car is a snotty little thing, so acceleration is fine.
Should I change my MAP sensor? If so, which one should I buy?
P.S. I cleaned my throttle body, it was filthy.
What type of boost/vacuum gauge should I get? Any suggestions? I've been wanting to change my boost gauge for a while to something like an Autometer Phantom 2 or something similar. What do you think? I know that some of those gauges use their own MAP sensor, at least that's what it says on Autometer's website.
Now, if I get a mechanical boost/vacuum gauge and I start getting the proper boost for a stock car, would that mean that the MAP sensor is bad?
It reads 20 hg give or take.
What type of boost/vacuum gauge should I get? Any suggestions? I've been wanting to change my boost gauge for a while to something like an Autometer Phantom 2 or something similar. What do you think? I know that some of those gauges use their own MAP sensor, at least that's what it says on Autometer's website.
Now, if I get a mechanical boost/vacuum gauge and I start getting the proper boost for a stock car, would that mean that the MAP sensor is bad?
What type of boost/vacuum gauge should I get? Any suggestions? I've been wanting to change my boost gauge for a while to something like an Autometer Phantom 2 or something similar. What do you think? I know that some of those gauges use their own MAP sensor, at least that's what it says on Autometer's website.
Now, if I get a mechanical boost/vacuum gauge and I start getting the proper boost for a stock car, would that mean that the MAP sensor is bad?
If you use an OBDII reader to verify the MAP readings don't match the readings on a accurate boost/vac gauge then yes I would say the MAP sensor isn't reading correctly. I wouldn't rely on the boost gauge readings because there could be something interfering with the signal out to the gauge that makes it display differently than the MAP sensor.
Also, what kind of boost gauge should I get? Something cheap from Ebay just for testing purposes?
Where are the MAP sensors located?
If you use an OBDII reader to verify the MAP readings don't match the readings on a accurate boost/vac gauge then yes I would say the MAP sensor isn't reading correctly. I wouldn't rely on the boost gauge readings because there could be something interfering with the signal out to the gauge that makes it display differently than the MAP sensor.
What should I be looking for on the OBD 2 11 reader?
Also, what kind of boost gauge should I get? Something cheap from Ebay just for testing purposes?
Where are the MAP sensors located?
2. That is really up to you. You could get one that's decent you want to leave installed or just the cheapest thing that has fairly accurate readings.
3. MAP sensor is on top of intake manifold, under the fuel rail, on the passenger side close to your upper coolant hose.
1. I already stated which is to look at your MAP sensor readings and verify they match the physical gauge
2. That is really up to you. You could get one that's decent you want to leave installed or just the cheapest thing that has fairly accurate readings.
3. MAP sensor is on top of intake manifold, under the fuel rail, on the passenger side close to your upper coolant hose.
2. That is really up to you. You could get one that's decent you want to leave installed or just the cheapest thing that has fairly accurate readings.
3. MAP sensor is on top of intake manifold, under the fuel rail, on the passenger side close to your upper coolant hose.
Thanks again.
If you use an OBDII reader to verify the MAP readings don't match the readings on a accurate boost/vac gauge then yes I would say the MAP sensor isn't reading correctly. I wouldn't rely on the boost gauge readings because there could be something interfering with the signal out to the gauge that makes it display differently than the MAP sensor.
I am still waiting for a boost gauge to come in the mail.
So, today I took my car for a ride with my OBD II reader hooked up; I was monitoring the MAP sensor and when I gave it full throttle in 3rd gear, the reader was saying 29.9 hg, which converts over 14.69 psi. Does this indicate anything? What could be interfering with the signal to the boost gauge?
I am still waiting for a boost gauge to come in the mail.
I am still waiting for a boost gauge to come in the mail.
Based on what you have said to have observed it seems your MAP sensor is working fine. If your OBD data indicates 14psi of boost but your boost gauge is only displaying 3 then I would guess something is wrong with your boost gauge. Either replace it with a mechanical or ignore it would be my advice. 14psi does seem a little high for stock but I don't know for sure just based of what I've seen. I thought max boos was supposed to be around 12psi but could be mistaken.
Every car that I have owned that I have put gauges on, it has always been mechanical. They are just way more accurate.
I always ran this brand, just because they fit in a pillar pod. They were flawless and very reasonable. They also have the bulb covers so you can change it to whatever color you want.
https://www.iequus.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQ...EaAigrEALw_wcB
I always ran this brand, just because they fit in a pillar pod. They were flawless and very reasonable. They also have the bulb covers so you can change it to whatever color you want.
https://www.iequus.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQ...EaAigrEALw_wcB
Thank you to all of you guys for the answers.
I still have not figured it out; but, I'm determined. I will try the mechanical gauge once it gets to my house.
Again, thanks to all of you.
I still have not figured it out; but, I'm determined. I will try the mechanical gauge once it gets to my house.
Again, thanks to all of you.
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