What break in oil are you running? When mine was done we used Rotella 10/40 for the first 1000 miles. It was changed after the first 30 min of idle running. Then it was changed at 500, then again at 1000 where I then went to synthetic blend..

 

the seal is a little stubborn on this plug so im guessing it clipped in crooked and now he got it in right, that was my problem with it.

 

Powell I found the thread that mrb provided a picture in thank you.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...e-help-292230/

 

there are so many opinions on this I am not even going there. Big thing for guys doing this use dyno oil first then at some point switch to your preference after a good break-in. Everything else is opinion.

 

I think this was my problem as well. If i get a code I will reference the thread in my previous post, if I dont get a code it was that stupid connector sitting right under the coolant fill tube from the bottle.

 

Yea I know its opinion, just wondering what route you were going. Performance Autowerks recommended the method I did, but I know others have their certain techniques..

 

Yeah, do what you want is how I feel about it. I am going to run my dino oil for 500 miles, then probably switch to mobile 1 right away. The car comes with it even during new car break in. So it is what it is. I will watch my oil for metal and change more often if needed. (magnetic drain plug)

 

the lsj dosent use mobile 1 for new engine break in they used dino oil in them for break in rings will not seat on synthetic oil I would run the engine atleast 1500 on dino before you put synthetic in it for your info the lsj was supposedly broke in on a engine run stand

GDS

 

mrb what do you think the noise is coming from my vc, sounds like the chain area.

 

Another thing to consider for breaking in your engine. No boost for 500 miles. When my engine builder (old time drag racer) built my DD motor he was adamant of me staying out of boost for 500 miles. Since then I have put on 19,000 miles with no engine issues.

 

it sounds like a broken chain guide and the chain is just slapping around inside

good to see you around

GDS

 

That is what I was thinking as well, have you known these guides to break on first start up. The noise was there right away. I am going to tear into her today or tomorrow. Still very excited to be this far along. Not going to let it bother me at work today. Just another step in making my car better. IE new timing components.

 

I thought you got the CED timing package when you were building? So aren't the guides brand new? But I agree that's what I thought it was

 

Dirty or went bad is my guess

 

cps is fine now. The only thing I have now is 3 codes and the chain noise.

o2 high voltage 0132
maf 1101 -likely tuning needed here according to some forums
baro high voltage 2229

 

I haven't seen one do that but if the tensioner dosent do its job it could cause it to happen

GDS

 

Thanks, I'm still around, battered not broken.


I'm not sure which tensioner you 2 are talking about but if you are opening it up to check the chain guides, check the internal tensioner as well as the external one.

 

main chain tensioner

GDS

 

Not sure what internal one you are talking about, the water pump chain? Yeah I set it installed it and pulled the small screwdriver holding it in place.

The Cam tensioner is where I think something is wrong. Just way too loud to be anything but.

 

Thanks.

That noise you mention brings back bad memories as I had it too in the DD, just not right away. The noise was coming from the water pump side of the engine. jbp said at the time 'internal chain tensioner' so I had it replaced. Noise didn't go away and 120 miles later a connecting rod went through the side of my block. That was the end of jbp working on the RWD car.

When you check the guide and if it isn't the guide (I'm hoping it is) don't stop looking until you find the source of the noise.

 

a rod was my second thought

GDS

 

thank you guys, I will let you know when I tear into it.

 

Ok guys, the timing chain is off 3 links on both the exhaust and intake cam. Evenly, if it had jumped it did it on both cams. Weird. I know I set them on the colored links correctly. Anyway, about to take off the balancer and its a pain, I torqued it to 180 degrees past the 74ft lbs and I cant break it now. LOL. Anyway here is where I am, nothing is broken and the car just needs retimed, hence maybe why the new code for CPS is now on my P codes. How did this jump time on both cams? Any guesses, also when i turn the crank the chain slaps the center guide above the cam gears, (highest one on engine between above gears by the vc. Is my tensioner bad? It snaps into place... what gives?

 

you can roll the engine over fast enough by hand to keep the slack out of it not tot mention there is no oil pressure to enough tension I wonder if the sound is the valves smacking the pistons

GDS

 

How did you first fire up the car.

Did you pull the spark plugs out and turn the engine over for 10 to 15 seconds?
I know it sounds like a little overkill but that what ZZ performance recommend it to me.

Then I put the spark plugs back in and started the engine for the first time

Because you may not have had oil at the tensioner