car wont start after fresh build
#26
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What break in oil are you running? When mine was done we used Rotella 10/40 for the first 1000 miles. It was changed after the first 30 min of idle running. Then it was changed at 500, then again at 1000 where I then went to synthetic blend..
#27
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the seal is a little stubborn on this plug so im guessing it clipped in crooked and now he got it in right, that was my problem with it.
#32
Yeah, do what you want is how I feel about it. I am going to run my dino oil for 500 miles, then probably switch to mobile 1 right away. The car comes with it even during new car break in. So it is what it is. I will watch my oil for metal and change more often if needed. (magnetic drain plug)
#33
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Yeah, do what you want is how I feel about it. I am going to run my dino oil for 500 miles, then probably switch to mobile 1 right away. The car comes with it even during new car break in. So it is what it is. I will watch my oil for metal and change more often if needed. (magnetic drain plug)
GDS
Last edited by mrbelvedere; 01-24-2013 at 10:13 PM.
#35
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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Another thing to consider for breaking in your engine. No boost for 500 miles. When my engine builder (old time drag racer) built my DD motor he was adamant of me staying out of boost for 500 miles. Since then I have put on 19,000 miles with no engine issues.
#37
That is what I was thinking as well, have you known these guides to break on first start up. The noise was there right away. I am going to tear into her today or tomorrow. Still very excited to be this far along. Not going to let it bother me at work today. Just another step in making my car better. IE new timing components.
#41
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That is what I was thinking as well, have you known these guides to break on first start up. The noise was there right away. I am going to tear into her today or tomorrow. Still very excited to be this far along. Not going to let it bother me at work today. Just another step in making my car better. IE new timing components.
GDS
#42
LSX RWD S/C conversion
iTrader: (2)
Thanks, I'm still around, battered not broken.
I'm not sure which tensioner you 2 are talking about but if you are opening it up to check the chain guides, check the internal tensioner as well as the external one.
I'm not sure which tensioner you 2 are talking about but if you are opening it up to check the chain guides, check the internal tensioner as well as the external one.
#45
LSX RWD S/C conversion
iTrader: (2)
Thanks.
That noise you mention brings back bad memories as I had it too in the DD, just not right away. The noise was coming from the water pump side of the engine. jbp said at the time 'internal chain tensioner' so I had it replaced. Noise didn't go away and 120 miles later a connecting rod went through the side of my block. That was the end of jbp working on the RWD car.
When you check the guide and if it isn't the guide (I'm hoping it is) don't stop looking until you find the source of the noise.
When you check the guide and if it isn't the guide (I'm hoping it is) don't stop looking until you find the source of the noise.
#46
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Thanks.
That noise you mention brings back bad memories as I had it too in the DD, just not right away. The noise was coming from the water pump side of the engine. jbp said at the time 'internal chain tensioner' so I had it replaced. Noise didn't go away and 120 miles later a connecting rod went through the side of my block. That was the end of jbp working on the RWD car.
When you check the guide and if it isn't the guide (I'm hoping it is) don't stop looking until you find the source of the noise.
That noise you mention brings back bad memories as I had it too in the DD, just not right away. The noise was coming from the water pump side of the engine. jbp said at the time 'internal chain tensioner' so I had it replaced. Noise didn't go away and 120 miles later a connecting rod went through the side of my block. That was the end of jbp working on the RWD car.
When you check the guide and if it isn't the guide (I'm hoping it is) don't stop looking until you find the source of the noise.
GDS
#48
Ok guys, the timing chain is off 3 links on both the exhaust and intake cam. Evenly, if it had jumped it did it on both cams. Weird. I know I set them on the colored links correctly. Anyway, about to take off the balancer and its a pain, I torqued it to 180 degrees past the 74ft lbs and I cant break it now. LOL. Anyway here is where I am, nothing is broken and the car just needs retimed, hence maybe why the new code for CPS is now on my P codes. How did this jump time on both cams? Any guesses, also when i turn the crank the chain slaps the center guide above the cam gears, (highest one on engine between above gears by the vc. Is my tensioner bad? It snaps into place... what gives?
#50
How did you first fire up the car.
Did you pull the spark plugs out and turn the engine over for 10 to 15 seconds?
I know it sounds like a little overkill but that what ZZ performance recommend it to me.
Then I put the spark plugs back in and started the engine for the first time
Because you may not have had oil at the tensioner
Did you pull the spark plugs out and turn the engine over for 10 to 15 seconds?
I know it sounds like a little overkill but that what ZZ performance recommend it to me.
Then I put the spark plugs back in and started the engine for the first time
Because you may not have had oil at the tensioner
Last edited by Tjolley; 01-26-2013 at 02:22 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost