2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

car wont start after fresh build

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Old 02-03-2013, 09:42 PM
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i feel a weight lifted off my shoulders, cant wait to get her dynod on E and 80lb injectors (1000cc at our fuel pressure)
Old 02-03-2013, 09:48 PM
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whats your break in? i did 300 miles no boost then slowly creeped untill wot pulls.. at 2100 miles and no issues. slowly going full syn and big turbo this weekend
Old 02-03-2013, 09:54 PM
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i am going to run it all week and drive drive drive to get her to 500 miles. I have been only seeing a 5 lbs of boost and on E its about impossible to get her to knock, I called my dyno/tuner guy and he said later this week we should have our first numbers, thinking 15 lbs to start, see what she does, then up the boost until I run out of fuel or turbo... Gonna run dino oil for the first 1000 miles.
Old 02-03-2013, 11:28 PM
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I did 500 on brad penn brake in oil changed the oil filter every 100 mile along with a oil analysis..then i did regular oil for 2000 miles of normal driving and a few wot pulls.
Then i went to 5w30 redline oil and raced the hell out of it ever since.
Old 02-04-2013, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by c130aviator
Like a beast! I FREAKING LOVE HAVING MY CAR BACK.

Replaced the tensioner with the gen 2. Took care of that chain slap. Also retimed the car just in case. Pulled the crank sensor and lined her up with 1 at tdc and exh/intake at their appropriate timing.



Problem solved.
if that's all of the old tensioner that's left you have parts missing from it
Old 02-04-2013, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
if that's all of the old tensioner that's left you have parts missing from it
no they are all there, there is the cylinder, the spring, the piston, etc. Its just not set up right or something. the turn lock will catch and not allow it to seat on the guide.

Anyway there are a slew of people on the web that replaced the old design with the new one and it fixed their chain noise. I bought the germany one on the left on amazon for 30 bucks. read the reviews. its a common problem.
Old 02-04-2013, 12:13 PM
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there is a small spring a check ball and the tip that goes against the tension guide missing in the pic for the old tensioner

GDS
Old 02-04-2013, 12:42 PM
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My work area is pristine and everything layed out. No leftover parts from the build but you would know. I trust you more than anyone on this forum. I just know that its all there from my build parts layout and labeled parts bagies.
Old 02-04-2013, 06:10 PM
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congrats!!

atleast you got the ticking problem fixed. in for dyno vids after break in!!
Old 02-04-2013, 06:36 PM
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Glad to hear it wasn't a rod.
Old 02-04-2013, 08:46 PM
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me too, going to dyno tune it right away. I am not going to run around with a half **** job on the maf. Even on e85, I dont want to melt something. I think i am rich with the big injectors.
Old 02-04-2013, 11:39 PM
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From what I know e85 can be more forgiving.. as long as the tune is decent you should be okay. Do you have a wideband in the car yet??
Old 02-05-2013, 12:35 PM
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Yup. Innovative lc-1
Old 02-05-2013, 01:23 PM
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Well just make sure that it isn't gettin to lean.. Like off the gauge lean. U should be ok for the first 500 miles or so...then start tuning on it after u change ur oil...and always let ur car warm up to at least 150-160 before driving it...some will say to operating temp..
Other than that just drive it like normal.
Old 02-05-2013, 04:39 PM
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its kind of backwards right now. it reads 10.1 at idle and under acceleration it reads 14~ but this is with e85. I have taken it to 10 psi for quick bursts, everything looks awesome.
Old 02-05-2013, 07:24 PM
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Ur still lookin for 14.7 on the gauge cruzing.
If its 10 at idle Ur rich which isn't a terrible thing for the time being.. as long as it runs smooth and the idol is not all over the place I would leave it for the first 500 miles.
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