A different approach to modding your cobalt
My findings were rather impressive.
(Stock heat exchanger, Stock UN-PORTED Eaton, 2# lower)
(25 minute track sessions)
Killer Chiller Off, ambient temps 72*, the IAT2's were at or above 130* for most of the session, peaking to 137*, peak observed boost was 10.1 pounds at approx 120mph in 3rd gear.
Killer Chiller ON, ambient temps 76*, the IAT's were at or below 99* for the majority of the session as low as 85* for the slightly slower sections of the track where i was only in low boost 2-5 psi, peaking to 102* at the end of the back straight, peak observed boost was 10.9 pounds at approx 120mph in 3rd gear.
(Stock heat exchanger, Stock UN-PORTED Eaton, 2# lower)
(25 minute track sessions)
Killer Chiller Off, ambient temps 72*, the IAT2's were at or above 130* for most of the session, peaking to 137*, peak observed boost was 10.1 pounds at approx 120mph in 3rd gear.
Killer Chiller ON, ambient temps 76*, the IAT's were at or below 99* for the majority of the session as low as 85* for the slightly slower sections of the track where i was only in low boost 2-5 psi, peaking to 102* at the end of the back straight, peak observed boost was 10.9 pounds at approx 120mph in 3rd gear.
Here is a review for the Killer Chiller, the product I'm talking about. Notice the increase in boost from 10.1 to 10.9 psi.
no, not a fuel cooler. This used your A/C Refrigerant to "chill" your intercooler fluid before it enters the laminova cores.
I plan to add a fuel cooler eventually too though.
I have to get off work right now, but in about 30 min, I'll be back online and I'll continue this lovely Forum Conversation.
I plan to add a fuel cooler eventually too though.
I have to get off work right now, but in about 30 min, I'll be back online and I'll continue this lovely Forum Conversation.
Last edited by ralliartist; Jul 10, 2008 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You turn you a/c on and it take about 2 min to chill the fluid and lower your IAT's, then you turn off your a/c and make a pass, or a pull, and then turn your a/c on when you are done, or when you are on the return road at the drag strip. It take like another 2+ min. for your fluid to heat soak again with the a/c system off. There's a lot more too it other than what I'm posting, that's why I was keeping it a secret until I got everything together. I still have questions myself. But getting a hold of the creator has proven very tough to do.
funny no one has tried to explain that I'm still wrong about my boost level going up after providing some proof.
That's another testomonial of more boost because of lower iat's.
funny no one has tried to explain that I'm still wrong about my boost level going up after providing some proof.
With the Chiller I made the same hp but more torque on the pump gas 18 degrees of timing as I did with the previous race gas and 21-23 degrees of timing tunes. Of course it made 3-4 more lbs of boost with the Chiller on so that might have something to do with it.
Last edited by ralliartist; Jul 10, 2008 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
sorry lsj, I had too, the trolls don't understand my own increase in boost pressure even though I'm on the stock pulley, and this helps exlain it.
I'm only giving them some of the info, I know they won't understand all of it, if they do their own research like we have, they'll understand.
Eventually this will be a big thing in the LSJ community just like the cobra community.
I'm only giving them some of the info, I know they won't understand all of it, if they do their own research like we have, they'll understand.
Eventually this will be a big thing in the LSJ community just like the cobra community.
thanks reston, I'm trying to back up why I make 14.1psi on my stock pulley, granted I don't make that much boost till 7400rpms. I don't make power that high anyway, that's just a shift point to put me back in the powerband better.
As for the people that are gonna flame and say that I am floating valves and what not, I've had no problems and there has been no signs of valve float. my limiter is set at 7500rpms to ensure I don't go any higher.
back on the boost note, with such cool temps, I make 12psi by like 4K rpms, which contributes to the flat tq curve from 4K-5100rpms. I hold that 12 till about 5K and then it climbs to 12.4 and then 12.6psi by 6500 and then eventually 14.1 by 7400rpms.
As for the people that are gonna flame and say that I am floating valves and what not, I've had no problems and there has been no signs of valve float. my limiter is set at 7500rpms to ensure I don't go any higher.
back on the boost note, with such cool temps, I make 12psi by like 4K rpms, which contributes to the flat tq curve from 4K-5100rpms. I hold that 12 till about 5K and then it climbs to 12.4 and then 12.6psi by 6500 and then eventually 14.1 by 7400rpms.
I've come in a little late and have not read the entire thread,so if I ask a redundant question I apologize.I wondered how all this is affected by barometric pressure?Pressure here now is 29.94 inHg which is average.On ocassion it will rise to 30.40 or fall to 28.95.
I have a stage two factory tune, a 2.9 pulley and no cooling mods.Boost is roughly 14.5
to 15 lbs. at 7000 rpm.So as I understand it if I refrigerate the coolent just prior to it entering the laminova I should see a decreas in boost pressure (which is good)and an increase of volumetric efficiency.Is that correct?
I have a stage two factory tune, a 2.9 pulley and no cooling mods.Boost is roughly 14.5
to 15 lbs. at 7000 rpm.So as I understand it if I refrigerate the coolent just prior to it entering the laminova I should see a decreas in boost pressure (which is good)and an increase of volumetric efficiency.Is that correct?
I'm having a rough time getting ahold of the maker, but the cost right now is like 700 dollars. Me and LSJwannabe are trying to get him to get a group buy going on here. He offered it to the cobra guys for 500, which would be worth it. Look at my previous post to see how it works.
That's about all I'm saying for now, until we get him interested in our cars and our forum, I'm done talking about it. Plus I know there will be a lot of people (just like on the cobra forums) that will doubt it. SO please don't bombard my thread with hate. Just wait till we get more info on this and we'll post up. We were wanting to test it on our cars first, dyno and track, before we threw it out to everyone esle, but since I had to spill the beans, it may get offered sooner.
That's about all I'm saying for now, until we get him interested in our cars and our forum, I'm done talking about it. Plus I know there will be a lot of people (just like on the cobra forums) that will doubt it. SO please don't bombard my thread with hate. Just wait till we get more info on this and we'll post up. We were wanting to test it on our cars first, dyno and track, before we threw it out to everyone esle, but since I had to spill the beans, it may get offered sooner.
You're no dummy, you just did all the mods that everyone else did when the cars first came out. I'm still helping you get the most out of them now. You have to admit though, you are at the fastest that you have been right now. You just need some good tuning now. You been in contact with area47?
Hmmm... there is a major misunderstanding here... big time!
As most of the design guy on this site will say... when all else fails, use the ideal gas law; PV=nRT.
According to that law, assuming the we are moving .1L of air, and .00321 mols though the system, we can ideally determine the following...
@ 120*F your boost should be 12.5psi
@ 150*F your boost should be 13.1psi
@ 200*F you boost should be 14.3psi
Thus proving that a decrease in intake temperatures lowers boost pressures.
With that said, this does not mean that you are pushing 14 psi, though.
Please refer to the following quote.
If we look closely, you are running approximately the stock boost until 6500RPM... as the stock car should.
BUT.... up to 7500RPM you are encountering a rise in boost. I'd have to go along with LSJwannabe's comment of the stock cams being tired at high RPM's... as this is why your boost is 'spiking' near redline... the blower is pushing more air than the engine can take, due to the limits of the cams.
Therefore, your fully correct that your boost has increased.... but not due to intake temps.... it's due to a lack of flow at the top end.
Hope this helps end the debate...
ok... bye bye now.
As most of the design guy on this site will say... when all else fails, use the ideal gas law; PV=nRT.
According to that law, assuming the we are moving .1L of air, and .00321 mols though the system, we can ideally determine the following...
@ 120*F your boost should be 12.5psi
@ 150*F your boost should be 13.1psi
@ 200*F you boost should be 14.3psi
Thus proving that a decrease in intake temperatures lowers boost pressures.
With that said, this does not mean that you are pushing 14 psi, though.
Please refer to the following quote.
BUT.... up to 7500RPM you are encountering a rise in boost. I'd have to go along with LSJwannabe's comment of the stock cams being tired at high RPM's... as this is why your boost is 'spiking' near redline... the blower is pushing more air than the engine can take, due to the limits of the cams.
Therefore, your fully correct that your boost has increased.... but not due to intake temps.... it's due to a lack of flow at the top end.
Hope this helps end the debate...
ok... bye bye now.
Hmmm... there is a major misunderstanding here... big time!
As most of the design guy on this site will say... when all else fails, use the ideal gas law; PV=nRT.
According to that law, assuming the we are moving .1L of air, and .00321 mols though the system, we can ideally determine the following...
@ 120*F your boost should be 12.5psi
@ 150*F your boost should be 13.1psi
@ 200*F you boost should be 14.3psi
Thus proving that a decrease in intake temperatures lowers boost pressures.
With that said, this does not mean that you are pushing 14 psi, though.
Please refer to the following quote.
If we look closely, you are running approximately the stock boost until 6500RPM... as the stock car should.
BUT.... up to 7500RPM you are encountering a rise in boost. I'd have to go along with LSJwannabe's comment of the stock cams being tired at high RPM's... as this is why your boost is 'spiking' near redline... the blower is pushing more air than the engine can take, due to the limits of the cams.
Therefore, your fully correct that your boost has increased.... but not due to intake temps.... it's due to a lack of flow at the top end.
Hope this helps end the debate...
ok... bye bye now.
As most of the design guy on this site will say... when all else fails, use the ideal gas law; PV=nRT.
According to that law, assuming the we are moving .1L of air, and .00321 mols though the system, we can ideally determine the following...
@ 120*F your boost should be 12.5psi
@ 150*F your boost should be 13.1psi
@ 200*F you boost should be 14.3psi
Thus proving that a decrease in intake temperatures lowers boost pressures.
With that said, this does not mean that you are pushing 14 psi, though.
Please refer to the following quote.
If we look closely, you are running approximately the stock boost until 6500RPM... as the stock car should.
BUT.... up to 7500RPM you are encountering a rise in boost. I'd have to go along with LSJwannabe's comment of the stock cams being tired at high RPM's... as this is why your boost is 'spiking' near redline... the blower is pushing more air than the engine can take, due to the limits of the cams.
Therefore, your fully correct that your boost has increased.... but not due to intake temps.... it's due to a lack of flow at the top end.
Hope this helps end the debate...
ok... bye bye now.
After i fixed the pump, i never saw more than 17psi after installing a 2.85...
Hmmm... there is a major misunderstanding here... big time!
As most of the design guy on this site will say... when all else fails, use the ideal gas law; PV=nRT.
According to that law, assuming the we are moving .1L of air, and .00321 mols though the system, we can ideally determine the following...
@ 120*F your boost should be 12.5psi
@ 150*F your boost should be 13.1psi
@ 200*F you boost should be 14.3psi
Thus proving that a decrease in intake temperatures lowers boost pressures.
With that said, this does not mean that you are pushing 14 psi, though.
Please refer to the following quote.
If we look closely, you are running approximately the stock boost until 6500RPM... as the stock car should.
BUT.... up to 7500RPM you are encountering a rise in boost. I'd have to go along with LSJwannabe's comment of the stock cams being tired at high RPM's... as this is why your boost is 'spiking' near redline... the blower is pushing more air than the engine can take, due to the limits of the cams.
Therefore, your fully correct that your boost has increased.... but not due to intake temps.... it's due to a lack of flow at the top end.
Hope this helps end the debate...
ok... bye bye now.
As most of the design guy on this site will say... when all else fails, use the ideal gas law; PV=nRT.
According to that law, assuming the we are moving .1L of air, and .00321 mols though the system, we can ideally determine the following...
@ 120*F your boost should be 12.5psi
@ 150*F your boost should be 13.1psi
@ 200*F you boost should be 14.3psi
Thus proving that a decrease in intake temperatures lowers boost pressures.
With that said, this does not mean that you are pushing 14 psi, though.
Please refer to the following quote.
If we look closely, you are running approximately the stock boost until 6500RPM... as the stock car should.
BUT.... up to 7500RPM you are encountering a rise in boost. I'd have to go along with LSJwannabe's comment of the stock cams being tired at high RPM's... as this is why your boost is 'spiking' near redline... the blower is pushing more air than the engine can take, due to the limits of the cams.
Therefore, your fully correct that your boost has increased.... but not due to intake temps.... it's due to a lack of flow at the top end.
Hope this helps end the debate...
ok... bye bye now.
I'll take that as a good explanation. I'm still gonna rev that high when I go all out cause it's a good shift point.
Exactly. I don't rev that high everday anyways. But I've been reving that high since a month after I bought the car and I can tell you, I'm not hurting anything. It would be nice to get a set of cams and a port/polished head with oversized valves and take advantage of reving that high though.
that's the first time I have seen a conflict resolved in a peaceful manner with facts and common sense...
The killer chiller is a proven method to lower temps with the blowers we have, m62 or tvs. The facts are on the site and there should be no doube over the product. Good find, good luck with the install, and I'm waiting for the results. I'll be deployed most likely by the time you can actually get your hands on one and test it for data.
The killer chiller is a proven method to lower temps with the blowers we have, m62 or tvs. The facts are on the site and there should be no doube over the product. Good find, good luck with the install, and I'm waiting for the results. I'll be deployed most likely by the time you can actually get your hands on one and test it for data.
damn, we're all in the military on this forum. LOL. And I think this forum may actually be taking a huge turn, I've been working together with a lot of people on projects lately.
dude, I argued with you a long time ago before I had a real grasp on how this car really operates. Hopefully my cooling mods go on this weekend so I can get my fueling right and put on the 2100 dollar paperweight in my garage.


