whats sad is, that is how most race engines are broken in around here. slapped some tires on the car, went out did a nasty burn out. bring it back in, check it all over, stick it on the dyno. then hit the track.


if you want it to last more than 10k miles, break it in nicely, but not too nice.

 

You have to baby the engine for cam break in. After that, if you want the rings to seat properly you need to beat the **** out of it. Break-in is a thing of the past.

 

Mmm, well...don't forget about new rod and main bearings, which require a few hundred miles to seat into the crankshaft journals effectively. All that particulate matter in the oil filter on that first oil change is the result, and until this process is done, excessive load and/or RPM can dramatically shorten bearing life. That first oil change is critical too, for to run the engine under heavy load with such a high metal content in the oil is also a no-no.

Race engines typically don't see this process, for they are expected to be disassembled and freshened at much more frequent intervals than street engines.

 

Varying loads and times break in bearings a lot better then going xxxx miles. Your better off putting on a dyno and varying throttle and keeping it at different RPM's and time lengths. Break in of a motor should take no more then an hour, including cam break in, and the oil should be changed twice. At least this is what I've been taught.

 

drool drool...... def a nasty set up with lots of time and money involved.

later

 

Absolutely correct, varying loads are a good point...but the timeframe you cite is completely insufficient for a street engine desired to be a long-lived piece. You can prove this to yourself easily...next time you get the chance to break one in, check the metal particles in the filter at 500 and 1000 miles (an hour is roughly equivalent to 60 miles). You WILL see significant metal in the filter at 500 miles, and a significant portion of it will be shed from the bearings between 60 (the timeframe you recommend here) and 500 miles. At 1000 miles, you will see very little metal, demonstrating that break-in is complete.

Our preferred method is to change the oil and filter at 100 miles, then again at 500, then 1000. After that, every 3000 is the target.

Folks, don't rush it. You spent thousands on it, why risk it?

 

Hmmm..... should I keep my 3" exhaust? I can make it fit on the the turbo downpipe...LOL

 

dam that is pure crazy

 

I totally agree within those first 3000 miles many oil changes should be done! Metal particles are bad for numerous parts of the engine. I guess everyone just has different ways to do it. Pick and choose your battles.

I don't know if this was answered yet, but does your downpipe bolt up to any cat-back exhaust? Why also did you opt for a thick intercooler vs a taller one? Many people seem to say that thick intercoolers aren't as efficient because by the time the air gets to the back half of the intercooler its already absorbed as much heat as it can. Why not choose a BOV like the Synapse? Synapse completely eliminates all compressor surge. Thats what I'm running.

 

The downpipes with the turbosystems will be compatible with existing cat-backs, yes.

We've opted for 4.5" thick cores for the sake of retaining the factory crash-bar, and good exposure of the core face to air (due to the nose design of Cobalt, taller cores do not allow for effective exposure to incoming cooling air). Our intercooler design fits below the bumper so as to prevent crash-bar (bumper reinforcement) modifications. Such modifications can affect the crashworthiness of the vehicle and cause problems with insurance adjusters should there ever be a front-end collision (we've seen claims bounced from this!). Rest assured, the fin density of the core has been chosen with this thickness in mind, and both in computer modeling of the core during design and in real-world use, the heat-transfer performance has been most effective!

I'm sure your Synapse valve works well. We've used TiaL and our own product for years with excellent results, and are completely satisfied with them!

 

You guys should make all your turbo kits standard with a recirc BOV so people don't have to hear that damn PSSSS every time they let off the gas

 

That kit looks sick.Put me down for a 20g kit when it becomes available.Ill send you my 20g so u can modify the wastegate.Any idea when the kit will be available for purchase?

 

ive never understood why someone would buy a supercharged car then turbo it....?

 

they think there is hope to make it fast but get let down

 

I'm not let down.....

 

It's not unlike buying a turbocharged car, then replacing every component of the turbosystem in the quest for more power

In either case, you get the strong engine and other niceties you want (neither of which are available on the normally aspirated cars) then build the power you desire with aftermarket parts.

 

last time i checked its your car and you can do whatever you want to it. if he wants to but a turbo on let him.

 

Amazing what de-eatonazation can do . Hopefully soon I can share that thought , till then I forge on poverty stricken

 

neither am i, so people just ahve to high of expectations for there car

 

this is true.......

 

why is it any different than turboing a naturally aspirated engine? to go fast......

why does a turboed car put on a bigger or modified turbo?

the question seems redundent. but perhaps going up against a turboed cobalt will be the only way you will have an answer that sinks in?

Buy the way people. I thought of getting the 08 SS cause it also does not seem to have turbo lag. 260torque at 2000RPM is just insane. We shall see how it works if I buy one.

 

What i'm looking for probably isnt quite finalized yet but id be interested in seeing the full components list and the prices with each of those for instance

Which turbo to go with the 20G or the GT35R

Or getting the intake manifold or still using the stock one. Also portfueler ability and the cost there

Im looking for a reliable 300-350whp maybe at some future point going closer to 400whp, nothing too fancy but if the prices dont vary too far off what I'm looking at then obviously I'll go with the stronger stuff

Im sure by the time im ready which will be summer at the earliest all that stuff will be pretty set, I'm still mostly stock so I can go either path still whether it be working with a supercharger or moving to a turbo setup.

 

300 can be had without a turbo or nitrous if you really want to stick with the blower. turbo is just easier to get it, just a pain to tune sometimes

 

SOMETIMES!

i had the car on the raged ****** edge when i was at my 302whp level....
(I<3Bryan)

on a side note, any updates on this???

 

Well its 10:30 and Bill is still at the shop destined to get it running by tonight so I can pick it up tomorrow! So if everything goes right Ill post up some vids of idea and driving it!