2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

How difficult?

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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 12:41 AM
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Joemaster70's Avatar
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From: Villa Park, IL
How difficult?

2005 SS S/C

1. Throwout bearing. Everytime i haul ass the clutch gets really short and stiff and makes it harder to shift or not shiftable.

2. Control arm bushings. My right one is gone and is wearing the inside of my tires almost bald and they were new.

3. Transmission seal. It's leaking all over the shaft that connects to the axle side.

best place to find all these parts and prices. LMK what everyone uses and how long will it take to do
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 01:10 AM
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From: Milwaukee
Didn't Sean talk to you about all this Saturday night, in person?
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 01:32 AM
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get all your parts(except the a arm bushings) from c.e.d. they are a vendor on here and have the best pricing and kick ass customer service for your a arm bushings i would get set of sphericals from either john powel or ottp

try bleeding the throwout bearing first if that dosent help get a complete gmpp clutch kit and a bearing pipe

the seal on the tranny can be done in 30 min or less
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 02:16 AM
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no point bleeding the clutch, it doesnt just magically get air into the system. my clutch was doing the same thing, however could never figure out for sure why it did that. it makes no sense for clutch hydraulics to have issues with higher rpm. i actually figured it was the self adjusting pressure plate.

as for how hard it is, its up there. its actually not too hard but very labor intensive. obviously to change it the tranny has to come out. while its out, change the clutch, your stupid to go through all the work to pull the trans out to change the slave and not do the clutch. read up in the lsj build book the procedure, they have it outlined pretty well.

the axle seal. its fairly easy to change, the best way would be when the tranny is out to crab a chissel and hold the lip on the side of the seal down, then use a prybar to pop it out. to install the new seal pack the back of it with some vasaline to keep the spring in, find something that fits on the outside of the seal and drive it in.
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 08:54 AM
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y not it fixed mine
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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From: New Lenox, Illinois
Originally Posted by Joemaster70
2005 SS S/C

1. Throwout bearing. Everytime i haul ass the clutch gets really short and stiff and makes it harder to shift or not shiftable.

2. Control arm bushings. My right one is gone and is wearing the inside of my tires almost bald and they were new.

3. Transmission seal. It's leaking all over the shaft that connects to the axle side.

best place to find all these parts and prices. LMK what everyone uses and how long will it take to do
1. New clutch time - Or try to bleed. I had this problem, and I still do, it's an on and off problem. Bleeding helped it A LOT. I'm on stock clutch at 85,000 miles and it doesn't slip by any means. From my understanding the TOB releases pressure that it shouldn't be.

2. Powell CABs - Get the old ones taken out and new ones put in. Make sure to use Green Bearing Press Fit Loc-Tite. Costed me $85 at my buddy's shop. Beware - "Rod end/Rod end" bushings will make noise on uneven road. Nature of the beast. Over railroad tracks, etc.

3. Not sure if you mean rear main seal, if so, it's easy. Old one out, new one in. Also done while the trans is out.
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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Will most auto part stores Pull and press the old bushing or does a shop need to do?

Also does CED upgraded clutch kit come with a better throwout bearing?

Last edited by Joemaster70; Sep 26, 2011 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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xxxxsh4d0wxxxx's Avatar
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From: New Lenox, Illinois
Originally Posted by Joemaster70
Will most auto part stores Pull and press the old bushing or does a shop need to do?

Also does CED upgraded clutch kit come with a better throwout bearing?
No, bring it to an actual shop.

And yes, it does.
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