omg what a bitch it was to install, things didnt line up, had a hell of a ****** time trying to take off the clamps on the hoses, i dont see how some of you did this with the bumper on , its just impossible. i took the bumper off which made things easier but it was still hell getting it on, took me 3 hours to complete and now im in the bleediing process and who knows when that will finish, i guess i just keep filling it after i drive until it stays at the bottom?



last pic is my brothers car.

 

That's why I am reluctant to buy OTTP or ZZP, not only am I worried about that, I cannot work on cars, one shop quoted me $780ish and another $900 or so... keep in mind this isn't including parts. Total with labor would be like $1400

I'm just gonna buy a GM Stage II

Although it's still pricey, total with a factory GM Stage II is only $700 installed.

Enough about me...

Good luck man, let me know how the gains feel

 

anyone can do it, its not hard believe me im not really that experienced when it comes to mechanical stuff, i know the typical changing oil, changing rotors, brakes, springs, but this i didnt have a clue. i followed the diagram which is pretty simple, all you gotta do is remove one hose and add 2. but it was just a pain in the ass getting the clamps off.

added a pic, will add more in a bit

pics added

 

also i just retuned a guy on here who had the zzp s2 and the idle response is not that great it goes up and down crazy when sitting. so watch for that to man

 

thats weird, im sure its a completely different issue than the h/e, maybe his throttle body. i got to admit though, it looks sick on my car.

 

????????????????

 

x2..

 

dont play dumb you know your product caused that

hey, lemme know what your temps are if you can.

 

im going to be installing this along with a dual pass and option b...im just not sure on routing for piping any help?

 

No, dumb is when someone says a heat exchanger messes up throttle response.

 

i'm going to have to back up ryan on this one...the h/e is not the problem, it would not directly affect your friends idle...w/e is wrong with your friends car, its not the h/e...i would suggest some real troubleshooting before pointing fingers at a product that is in a whole nother system

 

i manage to mess up one of the fog lights when putting it back on, doesnt turn on anymore. but yea the side tabs you have to play with and bend to make it fit over the screw, also i didnt have a problem putting the bumper back on, didnt have to remove any extra crash bar.

 

ok heres the low down ryan when the car was sitting at idle the rpm's were going crazy up and down. the throttle response wasn't there also. dont know what you guys did in the tune to make it do that??????? then we threw his stock computer back in i reflashed him with a new tune and he's idling fine. the rpm's were steady and the throttle respone was alot better then.

never said it was the heat exchanger??????????????????? so you tell me what i said??????????????? i am not pointing fingers either just stating what had happened..... if i wanted to point fingers i would make a whole thread about this... but im not

 

For one a h/e won't cause thenidle issue I would have to say pulse widths he prob has 60s so there for it would be the tune. A canned tune is never good it might work but you also have to tell the tune maker what you have done to the car. canned tune should be worked on since altitude, temps, driver, and the aftermarket parts u have installed on the car affects the daily driving. But you can make a car idle better with a different tune, zzp might have gave this guy a tune that actualy would work on his car, but his throttle body was dirty had a dirty air filter or maf, you can make the tune compensate for all that. I'm just trying to help... And every thing other then the zzp stage two belts I would stand by. I only get my parts through them. Great company so when you feel there tune is not good I dunno if you have read there paragraphs below near the bottom of the page for the PCM tune it says you have so much amount of time to send PCM back to get it retuned. If there is a issue with tune. With the cost of shipping.

 

This thread is about a stage 3 heat exchanger. When you come in and say that you had to retune one, it sounds like you are blaming the heat exchanger. If you are talking about an ECM, then you should have been more clear.

As far as canned tunes- they work fine if the car is close to stock or modified with that vendors parts, and without issues outside of our control. Unfortunately, as these cars get older, the condition of the engine and bolt on parts is steadily declining. The modifications are also becoming more and more random and in many cases completely ridiculous. We have had a few cars come in for dynos with generic intakes that cause the MAF sensor to peak close to 40 lbs/min on a stage 3 setup, whereas the stock intake or ZZP intake have readings closer to 30 lbs/min. This throws fueling off from 11.5:1 well into the 9:1s! I tuned on one the other day that had -40 trims at idle when it came in! Another common issue we have found is vacuum leaks at the injector cups, which significantly affects idle AFRs. These types of issues can be tuned around, but it does not mean that the ECM was at fault.

 

x2...

 

it was sarcasm.....

 

This is the best tool for removing the clamps. Allows you to get into tight places and frees up both you hands. Craftsman Cable Operated Hose Clamp Pliers # 47390. Worth every penny. Direct Link http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...47390&sLevel=0