trying it friday thanks alot for your help budd!

 

Wow, that fixed my (what I thought was lifter tick) problem. 3 header bolts were loose.

Very surprised that was the issue.

 

when i did my header/ dp / catback install it was good for about a week

then it would sound like a bi -propeller plane haha

i just needed to re torque the header bolts

Currently i have some ticking at cold start ups as said on previous posts

i have a new timing chain tensioner that ill install soon tho

 

This is mine ... Cobalt chain - YouTube

 

oh dear lord it sounds like ur chain is broke and just smacking **** around in there

 

I plan on taking it to the dealer very soon , is this a warrantied part even tho I have a stage 2 aftermarket kit ?

 

That's a totally different noise for sure. And I doubt it will be warrantied, but some may attest to that.

 

I've been assuming its the chain / tensioner . The noise has gotten worse over a fairly long period of time , but car always pulls hard , drives great , no leaks , clean oil . Any idea what everyone thinks it may be if you don't believe it's my chain / tensioner ?

 

Any tips on getting to the exhaust manifold bolts with the torque wrench?

 

use a socket...

 

And in a less smartass response,

If you have a larger torque wrench good luck. It's much easier with a small one that is able to swivel.

Joel

 

Yea it seems a bit impossible with the 1/2" torque wrench... but a swivel head is not going to torque it up to spec correct?

 

LOL I was just kidding. You will not be able to use a 1/2" like Penguin says. 3/8" and even that will be hard to maneuver. I would recommend doing it to German specs.... Gutentight....

 

Or the Russians.. Eventighta

 

i love it

 

I meant the actual head of the torque wrench, we have a snap on at work that tilts, not so much swivel I guess. Helps for tight/weird places.

3/8 torque is probably your best bet, feel the other ones with the torque wrench at the same length along it as your ratchet and go by feel on the other one if you need.

Joel

 

Very funny D


About first vid - it's 100% camshaft position house ... there have a biggest gap ...
But don't try to get off it ... because you must place it back in TDC position (see in manual) ... it's f**king terrible because camshaft housing always lost needed marker ...


You can test it - just lift up right front wheel ... and you'll see - noise will gone ...

 

update to my vehilce, dropped off to the dealer last night , they are working on it now. So far indications are chain tensioner as we all expected and will be warranty work even with my mods.... so far ( crosss fingers )

 

new update, dealer now thinks its the belt tensioner that has gone bad and stated that the belt has been worn badly because of it. thats not covered by powertrain warranty , but might be by extended , dealer is checking that out... altho I dont tink they realized yet, teh belt is a stg 2 belt....

 

In the first video that I posted, it is the cam position sensor??

 

Yepp. But it's not sensor - it's housing there. Just put your fingers there - youll fill it (do not place there when HOT!!!)

You can try to change GAP there ... but you can brake sensor teeth there or lost it from sensor reading-position

It's #12600008 ... 734 on first picture ... and 20 on second

 

So that noise is the bolts going into the head or just the nuts that hold our exhaust manifolds on?

 

My car has the exact same noise! it was kinda scaring me lol but i just ordered a bad-mab headrer and it should be here in a few days. Hopefully the tick goes away!