New cams installed
Cool, yeah hes still using the Holset. I'm not sure what its going to do on that car though. Increase airflow to spool the turbo faster (which it what HKS claims in their ads for this profile) or take a torque hit and make a soft low end even weaker?
Your original turbo woulda made a dyno queen which would have hurt its track/streetablity imo. Though theres always work arounds with that which I hope to try on Dans car in the next week or two.
Your original turbo woulda made a dyno queen which would have hurt its track/streetablity imo. Though theres always work arounds with that which I hope to try on Dans car in the next week or two.
they've never even been ran. shims included. the down fall to all of this is he would have to wait for me to get back. I just feel that the 280 cams are going to be a bit too much for what im after. any way back on track. AL hows the tuning coming along? Have you had any dyno time yet? do you plan on tuning on the dyno?
dan needs to ditch that big ass snail and get something a bit more practical. but if he insist on that bigt ass turbo then I honestly believe he should step up to the HKS 280 grind. infact if you talk to him tell him (thats if he does decide to step up his cams) then I will make him a even trade for his 272s for my 280s I have a nice fresh set waiting for him
they've never even been ran. shims included. the down fall to all of this is he would have to wait for me to get back. I just feel that the 280 cams are going to be a bit too much for what im after. any way back on track. AL hows the tuning coming along? Have you had any dyno time yet? do you plan on tuning on the dyno?
they've never even been ran. shims included. the down fall to all of this is he would have to wait for me to get back. I just feel that the 280 cams are going to be a bit too much for what im after. any way back on track. AL hows the tuning coming along? Have you had any dyno time yet? do you plan on tuning on the dyno?Yes sir.
haha, I have all 06s unlocked.
I found that since we have no access to idle airflow tables (gg HPTuners again
) its easier to just let the car trim itself out. I ended up returning most of the tune back to stock except for idle adaptive spark which I set to about 80% of stock. It will still idle hunt very slightly after about 30 seconds of no throttle change but I think its unavoidable as my best guess is that its the evap or some other emissions system commanding the throttle plate to strange values.
I found that since we have no access to idle airflow tables (gg HPTuners again
Witt how hard was it to tune for the cams? I was gonna ask if you could send me a tune for $$ just so i can get the car running when i get the cams installed, but im going to be running a 2.7" pulley so im not sure how much trouble Ljavy17 is going to have tuning.
Witt how hard was it to tune for the cams? I was gonna ask if you could send me a tune for $$ just so i can get the car running when i get the cams installed, but im going to be running a 2.7" pulley so im not sure how much trouble Ljavy17 is going to have tuning.
I tried playing with idle scalar, idle spark, coastdown spark and each would fix one issue then create another.
Edit: If hes ever tuned a 'voltage offset vs. vacuum or map' injector table have him do that as well. It helps drivability on any car but more so with the cams.
Just try to set the adaptive idle spark to 80% of a stock table and see what happens. It will probably run really rough and have a horrible idle for the first 10 miles but it seems to smooth out and take care of itself after that. Also set idle speed to at least 950rpm.
I tried playing with idle scalar, idle spark, coastdown spark and each would fix one issue then create another.
I tried playing with idle scalar, idle spark, coastdown spark and each would fix one issue then create another.
Ok thanks man and you wouldnt mind me sending you some pms when i get them installed just in case i run into problems would you? Just so i do this right is it best to have vavle springs installed at the same time or can i run on the stock ones for awhile until i replace them?
Not sure on the springs tho...since these have more lift than stock it would be no different than upping your rev limiter a couple hundred rpm with the stock cam. I wouldn't recommend it but I don't think anyone has actually floated a valve due to high rpm or lift...yet.
And shameless plug...Supertech 78lb valve springs work like a champ. I had an issue using the stock seat/seal and they took care of me, overnighting seat locaters for free. They now list those locaters on their website. Good customer service.
Yah, I don't mind.
Not sure on the springs tho...since these have more lift than stock it would be no different than upping your rev limiter a couple hundred rpm with the stock cam. I wouldn't recommend it but I don't think anyone has actually floated a valve due to high rpm or lift...yet.
Not sure on the springs tho...since these have more lift than stock it would be no different than upping your rev limiter a couple hundred rpm with the stock cam. I wouldn't recommend it but I don't think anyone has actually floated a valve due to high rpm or lift...yet.
I"m ordering springs and retainers just in case anyway, I"ll have the neutral balance shafts in also (sitting on my floor in my room) and planning on running it up to 7800-8000 rpm's at the track
Little tip, I run up to 8k on a daily basis and found that upping the spark dwell especially over 4.5k rpm helps a lot (5% down low then up to 30% additional over 7k). I was getting spark blowout at 7.5k sporadically and it took care of the problem.
thanks for the tip man. Hopefully I"ll have these things sent out soon. Valve train is about 2 weeks away. I got offered a job at a local shop on saturday, but I can't take the pay cut at the moment. I wish I could take the job though, I'd much rather do cars full time then sell ******** all day. But for now, I"ll stick with my part time work
lol.. I hear ya. I've just been doing the car stuff for about 12 years now, but at least I make some decent money on the side now. Building a turbo MOnte Carlo SS in the fall. Aiming for 1000whp when it's all done. Now if I can just get the damn cobalt finished I'd be happy.
While I'm thinking of it I wanted to add one other piece of info I found out while doing this little swap.
The change in cam timing, mainly the intake valve closing point will change your effective compression ratio slightly. From the crap I gathered on the stock cams, stock compression, bore, stroke, and rod length, a static compression ratio increase of about half a point will bring you back to the same effective compression ratio as before the cam install. My numbers don't include the 1-2 psi drop in boost pressure as I'm now revving the engine to a higher limit and still making the same boost, although at higher engine speed.
For those of you who want to figure it all out, here are the numbers I came up with. The stock numbers are kinda goofy as GM doesn't provide the numbers I was looking for so a little math came up with what I THINK are correct ones.
Stock:
Bore: 86mm
Stroke: 86mm
Intake Valve Closing Point abdc: 18.25 degrees
Rod Length: 144.84mm
Static Compression Ratio: 9.5-1
My setup now:
Bore: 86mm
Stroke: 86mm
Intake Valve Closing Point abdc: 32 degrees
Rod Length: 144.84mm
Static Compression Ratio: 10-1
You can plug those into any one of those online compression ratio calculators along with boost pressure and altitude to see what you would need to maintain effective compression ratio.
The change in cam timing, mainly the intake valve closing point will change your effective compression ratio slightly. From the crap I gathered on the stock cams, stock compression, bore, stroke, and rod length, a static compression ratio increase of about half a point will bring you back to the same effective compression ratio as before the cam install. My numbers don't include the 1-2 psi drop in boost pressure as I'm now revving the engine to a higher limit and still making the same boost, although at higher engine speed.
For those of you who want to figure it all out, here are the numbers I came up with. The stock numbers are kinda goofy as GM doesn't provide the numbers I was looking for so a little math came up with what I THINK are correct ones.
Stock:
Bore: 86mm
Stroke: 86mm
Intake Valve Closing Point abdc: 18.25 degrees
Rod Length: 144.84mm
Static Compression Ratio: 9.5-1
My setup now:
Bore: 86mm
Stroke: 86mm
Intake Valve Closing Point abdc: 32 degrees
Rod Length: 144.84mm
Static Compression Ratio: 10-1
You can plug those into any one of those online compression ratio calculators along with boost pressure and altitude to see what you would need to maintain effective compression ratio.
besure to ask him about the completly custom LSJ hes building its going to be a 300+ HP N/A LSJ well it started life as an LSJ anyway.
its pretty bad ass. hes developing all sorts of cool internals for the LSJ these are hints of things to come. can you say billit crankshafts and rods he was talking crazy about using titanium one of the last times i spoke with him on the phone.http://www.flowtechnicsonline.com/
PH# (360) 697-1713
EMAIL flotec@wavecable.com
I am have all this stuff and it looks like they won't fit without the seat locators.should I just take the inner spring out? Sinisterredlines was running the high press set up without any problems.
I really don't know. PM Halfcent, hes been running a ferrea setup for quite a while now, he would know. Last I knew it was ok to run Ferreas with stock seats and the seat locators were only to be used with solid lifters, but I may be wrong in my thinking.


