Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
12-11-2012, 01:36 PM
#3276
Bad-A-SS, you're proving my point. I don't want to spend $1200 for an MP90 setup because I'd still need all the bolt ons, like what's in your sig.
If you read my earlier post, I'm not buying a turbo kit for $4000, I'd build the whole thing myself for around $1000 in the shop. Also, I drive 550 miles a week so I don't have time to screw with meth kits and refilling a solution container a few times a week. 20psi on an eaton is WAY hotter than even a small T3 non-intercooled. But a properly sized compressor will push more CFM at equal pressure with less parasitic loss. Whether we talk about maintenance, operating temps, cost of production, cost per HP, HP/psi, the turbo wins every category. And if I decide to go for 350-400hp down the road I turn up the boost controller a bit and don't have to retool my entire setup. If you;ve ever done tuning it's much easier without any meth injection, because the first time that container runs dry you sweep up aluminum puddles.
If you read my earlier post, I'm not buying a turbo kit for $4000, I'd build the whole thing myself for around $1000 in the shop. Also, I drive 550 miles a week so I don't have time to screw with meth kits and refilling a solution container a few times a week. 20psi on an eaton is WAY hotter than even a small T3 non-intercooled. But a properly sized compressor will push more CFM at equal pressure with less parasitic loss. Whether we talk about maintenance, operating temps, cost of production, cost per HP, HP/psi, the turbo wins every category. And if I decide to go for 350-400hp down the road I turn up the boost controller a bit and don't have to retool my entire setup. If you;ve ever done tuning it's much easier without any meth injection, because the first time that container runs dry you sweep up aluminum puddles.
12-11-2012, 03:07 PM
#3278
The precision turbo I picked out is ~$600. I'm going with an internal 15psi WG actuator, so that saves a bunch on the WG and simplifies the downpipe. I'll use a 1G DSM BOV, universal FMIC kit off fleabay. I have many silicone couplers and clamps, lots of vacuum hoses/fittings, -10an drain hose etc. $1500 would be the ceiling for this build since I have a lot of parts and would use cheap oem take offs for intake and header, or fab it. All my previous tuning experience was with megasquirt. So I'll have to pay someone for all the tuning unless I pony up the dough for an HPTuner. If/When I dive in I will definitely made a list of all parts I made, bough and what the total break down was. I just have a lot of research to do for the next month or so.
12-11-2012, 07:21 PM
#3279
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$1000 is a stretch really. Even though you have mapped out the basics you are missing all of the small parts.
MAF tube that has to be setup properly
Belt and tensioner setup from 2.2
exhaust work
The exhaust manifold itself is outrageous, even if you are going to build it your self, all of the lil bends you will have to buy add up fast. various flanges, gaskets, boost controller, boost gauge, injectors, brackets, modifications, etc. small pieces add up fast.
Quite seriously if you only want 300hp then do NOT invest in a turbo setup. There are several ppl in my local car club with the basic bolt ons that make 260-280whp on their M62s. Buy a TVS, MP90, etc. bolt it on and call it done.
The part that you are missing is that the full $1200 that Bad-A-SS has already told you really needs nothing else other than intake and exhaust, which you will need for a turbo setup as well.
If you want to do this relatively cheap and make it easy, I advice talking to Facepalm_IRL and buying an LNF take off kit.
MAF tube that has to be setup properly
Belt and tensioner setup from 2.2
exhaust work
The exhaust manifold itself is outrageous, even if you are going to build it your self, all of the lil bends you will have to buy add up fast. various flanges, gaskets, boost controller, boost gauge, injectors, brackets, modifications, etc. small pieces add up fast.
Quite seriously if you only want 300hp then do NOT invest in a turbo setup. There are several ppl in my local car club with the basic bolt ons that make 260-280whp on their M62s. Buy a TVS, MP90, etc. bolt it on and call it done.
The part that you are missing is that the full $1200 that Bad-A-SS has already told you really needs nothing else other than intake and exhaust, which you will need for a turbo setup as well.
If you want to do this relatively cheap and make it easy, I advice talking to Facepalm_IRL and buying an LNF take off kit.
12-11-2012, 07:55 PM
#3283
should clear the brakes.....
where did you pick up the slicks though? private sale where someone just never used them or a discount somewhere? hook a brotha up i'm about to get $700 from zzp. tire time.
12-12-2012, 09:11 PM
#3286
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holy *****.....my buddy just tweaked my e tune a little bit, and I can honestly say that I'm a little scared of my car right now I need to check my afr's up top, but every time I go WOT, she feels like she breaks loose and takes off like a bat outta hell
I need to check my afr's up top, but every time I go WOT, she feels like she breaks loose and takes off like a bat outta hell
12-12-2012, 09:23 PM
#3288
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well, it's a long story josh... but the gist of the matter is that the guy that worked on it lied to me, and he just helicoiled the head where the spark plug shot out. So, it has a band-aid for now, so until I get the new block and the "new" head PnP'd, then I'll really let it cut loose.
but the gist of the matter is that the guy that worked on it lied to me, and he just helicoiled the head where the spark plug shot out. So, it has a band-aid for now, so until I get the new block and the "new" head PnP'd, then I'll really let it cut loose.
12-12-2012, 09:39 PM
#3289
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yeah, they do make a block off plate, but the stock intake manifold is just uber restrictive for any turbo. Most turbo's boost 15psi off the wastegate which is right off the bat the absolute most that the stock manifold will tolerate. That's really why no one has used their block off plate since back in the day when turbocharging an lsj was primitive (early 06), because at the time it was either that, or spend 1000 bucks on Hahn's manifold.
12-12-2012, 10:36 PM
#3291
Okay at least I wasn't the only one thinking it, but I didn't want to look stupid heh. It's obvious GM built the LSJ as a performance engine that they sold upgrade kits for. So it seemed silly to think the manifold can't withstand 1-2 bars of pressure. I'm pretty sure I'm so full of it that my bowels hold a good 20psi so a 1/4" thick chunk of cast aluminum should withstand it.
12-12-2012, 11:03 PM
#3293
My main reason for asking about it was to see if using the water cooled plenum would negate a nice FMIC. I don't think it would matter much, because most all N/A cars I've built FI setups for had intakes manifolds that ran 125-145 with the FMIC. Granted coolant could push that to 150-160. But I've never even seen anyone mention it, let alone have pics of it.
12-15-2012, 01:28 AM
#3295
you're talking to LSJ guys here.
for those who run the piping off the throttle body and into the fender like stock, you can move it somewhere like this. (just in front of the ecu)
if we need to move it further..
Easy Performance - MAF Extension Harness #EP-MAF-EX-HNS-CBT
for those who run the piping off the throttle body and into the fender like stock, you can move it somewhere like this. (just in front of the ecu)
if we need to move it further..
Easy Performance - MAF Extension Harness #EP-MAF-EX-HNS-CBT
12-15-2012, 01:29 PM
#3298
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Okay at least I wasn't the only one thinking it, but I didn't want to look stupid heh. It's obvious GM built the LSJ as a performance engine that they sold upgrade kits for. So it seemed silly to think the manifold can't withstand 1-2 bars of pressure. I'm pretty sure I'm so full of it that my bowels hold a good 20psi so a 1/4" thick chunk of cast aluminum should withstand it.
12-15-2012, 03:15 PM
#3299
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hey for those of you running straight e with 80's and a rsfs, are you guys experience a lean condition at cold start??? mine doesn't do it right away. It idles high for a little, then leans out (guage shows 21.8....pretty low) and then straightens out. Only does this at cold start.
