cant, i am at work (AD air force) and I go to school in the evenings. You do not delete anything, it runs under the bottle and angled back up at the intercooler, its not a 45 degree off the intercooler it angles down directly under the cradle bolt on the front passenger side of the black engine cradle/frame. YOU MUST REMOVE THE FRONT INNER FENDER PLASTIC AND BUMPER TO INSTALL. Then everything will go back on like stock except the small black piece that is in the way of the BOV. you might be able to keep it if you have a small BOV.

 

Okay I got ya now, thanks a lot man.

 

Hey what size vacuum hose does the Hahn kit use? Don't want to mess it up.

 

Got my new turbo today.

 

On the manifold? On the bov? On the turbo/bc/wg? On the valve cover? I made my own for all of these.

 

that's real rich at idle man. that's a ton of fuel. i would have left it on pump gas until you finished the break in

 

Damn there all different? I'm at work and was in a pick some up but I don't know what sizes to get, and yes I need vacuums hoses for all of those.

 

E85 reads different on afr gauges. E85 also requires more fuel because it burns cooler/slower than gas. I need a tune and am gonna get her dialed in before breakin. Then breakin. Then dyno. Its off that is why I wanted to tune before running around on it to break in.

 

mines been running way rich at idal to.. but i have scewed trims bad.. hoping it all goes away with new setup

 

im on e85. if your wideband is still on gasoline afr, think of it as the same scale. 10.1 is rich as ****

 

I agree. Hence the need for the tune.

 

Fix that asap man. On a new motor that is real hard on things. Your washing the cylinder walls and also making the ring seating inconsistent.

 

This^ Same thing I was thinking

 

lol.... smh, what a coincidence, same thing I was thinking too.

 

That's why when I broke my motor in I did it violently hahah.

 

Agreed.......sighhhhhhh.........he gets an "A" for effort though

 

there are like 30 of you saying get it fixed asap, a for effort?, etc. I said days ago that I am getting it tuned before I go breaking it in. Forum likey and not so good with the reading stuff...

 

Some will say be nice on it while breaking it in, some will say run it all out to break it in. I used Mobil 1 and had trouble getting traction when it got on the street, few thousand miles later and it's still holding up. It was your money and time, do what you think is right for the break in.

 

yeah man, I have it down to at least 10 of everyone's opinions on break in. Just/kidding

This is what i figure from the average of everyone's take on it. Important things only.

Build motor/car.
Turnover car 40 times then reinstall plugs, wires, fuel pump relay.
Let car idle for 30 minutes to warm up and seat the gaskets, etc.
Drive car and watch for wacky AFR's.
Park car wait for tuner to get a day to tune you. <--- where I am right now
First tune. Get it dialed in for MAF/street and low boost.
Replace oil at 100 miles with Dino only.
Drive it for 300-500 miles for break in using Dino Oil
Replace oil at 500 miles with Dino only.
DYNO DAY!
At 1500 miles replace with Synthetic (I use Mobile1)
ENJOY CAR and spank local Mustangs, Cameros, ricers.

 

Way to many oil changes IMHO.

File with Mobil 1
Started a few times
Pulled it out to the road
Had fun XD (did pulls with some lnf's that night)
Changed oil at 3k
Drove 1k to Montana
No problems

Why? Because racecar

 

where is your tune in all that, where you afr's off as bad as mine. lol

Its only 3 oil changes that are cheap dino oil, This is the way i feel good about it.

 

are you on just zzp's tune that comes with the kit or did you get a dyno tune?

 

It sounded like you were driving the car around and idling that rich. If it was just an observation the few times you ran it and your not driving it around until its fixed, then your going in the right direction.

 

I had a zzp can tune and I had the sc on when I built the motor.

 

So that's all your running right now on the turbo setup?