Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
Yes, Tom founded k1. And he left a year ago because he handed over control of the company to a group, who is part of corillo. He left because profits were their only concern. All manufacturing moved to china, even finishing. K1 is nothing like it used to be. Your rods (the ones from mongo) were made long enough ago that I'm sure they are fine.
Tom started his own company, molnar technologies, a year ago. Those of you looking for rods now, call Tom. His number is (616) 940-4640. He will take the time to answer any possible question completely, and explain the REASONS behind everything, not just a generic "they'll hold Xhp"
I simply cannot say enough good things about him.
Tom started his own company, molnar technologies, a year ago. Those of you looking for rods now, call Tom. His number is (616) 940-4640. He will take the time to answer any possible question completely, and explain the REASONS behind everything, not just a generic "they'll hold Xhp"
I simply cannot say enough good things about him.
This...
If I see 440 on E at 25psi I will be happy. On stock fuel pressure with just 80lb injectors we started to run out of fuel at 420 on a dynomite dyno. Pulled it back to 410 on stock fuel system with 18 degrees timing up top. The 20G just doesnt have the guts to go 500. My next turbo is either going to be a pt5862 or pt6262. But that wont be for some time.
If I see 440 on E at 25psi I will be happy. On stock fuel pressure with just 80lb injectors we started to run out of fuel at 420 on a dynomite dyno. Pulled it back to 410 on stock fuel system with 18 degrees timing up top. The 20G just doesnt have the guts to go 500. My next turbo is either going to be a pt5862 or pt6262. But that wont be for some time.
another thing you guys keep skipping over is hp doesn't break rods, it only weakens them. rpm's break them. you don't ever see rods smashed; theyre ripped apart. stock rods may be able to handle 500@7000, but only 300@8000. we don't know.
according to tom's calculations though (which are very in depth, factors in the motor dimensions/piston weight/ pin, rings, expected hp, rpm) in my 2.0 86x86 at 400whp and 9,500 rpm, they'll be very well within their limit.
you're exactly right. Quality is very inportant to him, but people have to be able to afford them.
I'm trying to go higher than 25psi, possibly 30psi. I'm also going to go with a Pnp head, which I currently talking to a couple of people about. Also, I'll be using zzp valve springs as well, so perhaps a higher rev limit will help? I guess I'm more concerned about really pushing my s20g than I am about hp numbers. It's frustrating that I didn't go anywhere near its potential on my stock block because of something ******* stupid as a spark plug shooting out.
I have a pnp head and zzp 82# valve springs. Still only made 420.
i have a full set of stockers, i'll weigh them next week with my molnars and let you know.
another thing you guys keep skipping over is hp doesn't break rods, it only weakens them. rpm's break them. you don't ever see rods smashed; theyre ripped apart. stock rods may be able to handle 500@7000, but only 300@8000. we don't know.
according to tom's calculations though (which are very in depth, factors in the motor dimensions/piston weight/ pin, rings, expected hp, rpm) in my 2.0 86x86 at 400whp and 9,500 rpm, they'll be very well within their limit.
you're exactly right. Quality is very inportant to him, but people have to be able to afford them.
another thing you guys keep skipping over is hp doesn't break rods, it only weakens them. rpm's break them. you don't ever see rods smashed; theyre ripped apart. stock rods may be able to handle 500@7000, but only 300@8000. we don't know.
according to tom's calculations though (which are very in depth, factors in the motor dimensions/piston weight/ pin, rings, expected hp, rpm) in my 2.0 86x86 at 400whp and 9,500 rpm, they'll be very well within their limit.
you're exactly right. Quality is very inportant to him, but people have to be able to afford them.
My 20g was peaking at 27 psi. So you will hit 30psi at full spool and will fall to 25 at 7500. You will need an external waste gate to go over 25psi for it to go 30psi. Its also very hard on the compressor. The 20g has been well tested on DSM's. It wont do more than 440 imho.
I have a pnp head and zzp 82# valve springs. Still only made 420.
I have a pnp head and zzp 82# valve springs. Still only made 420.
You evidently haven't read this entire thread then. I already stated that I removed the internal wastegate before the turbo even went on my lsj and replaced it with a 38mm Tial external wastegate. I also stated that I had been in discussion long since before I even started any kind a swap or build, with F.I.S.T. Racing--a very well known, knowledgable, and well-respected shop in the dsm world--about my turbo. The 20g alone barely wakes up in a dsm at around 23-25psi. The s20g that hahn revised from the 20g is quite capable of pushing 500hp, given the right tune and other variables. It's the main reason why it's the main turbo that dsm's prefer for a reliable build.
Anyway, I built my block though to run 5 or 600 for longer than a dozen pulls. LOL. You said that a pnp and springs are going to help earlier in the thread but I already had those mods and still only got to 420, had I not then I might not have been even that high. The 20g is now my restriction and will be yours as well when you build that block.
Best of luck I still dont see 500. From the work I have done and the crap load of info on DMS sites a ragged out 20g from blouch (billet 11 blade) would do 480 on E with a tuner only known to do it once and that isnt daily driven at that power, it was backed off.
Last edited by c130aviator; Mar 31, 2013 at 12:13 AM. Reason: clarification
actually I'm quite familiar with your build, but I'm not exactly trying to get into a pissing match either. All I'm saying is that if I reach 500, cool. If I don't, I'm not exactly gonna make a thread about why I didn't reach my "goal" or say **** it, I'm selling my car. My purpose in modding this car is because it's ******* fun. I was robbed by unforeseen circumstances from really having fun with my current setup, so I'm eliminating those factors with something proven. In the end, like I've said in this thread and my build thread, I could really give a flying **** about numbers. I just want a bad ass toy and pass it on to my daughter so she can live a little
One of the highest dyno's I've seen from an S20G on an built SRT-4 was 438whp @ 32 psi (hold, not peak) and that's on race gas.
500bhp, yes. 500whp, no. SRT-4's typically see 400-425whp with their boost in the mid to high 20's and those are better flowing cars than the our's with more displacement. The Hahn S20G only flows at 680 cfm (47-50lbs/min depending on altitude/conditions), and that's not going to get you 500whp.
As far as you statement about a lot of DSM guys running the S20G's, that's because they're very reliable and they're cheap. A friend of mine has ran his for 6 years now, but the general consensus for the last 10+ years has been that the lag vs power is sub-par compared to other hybrid turbos, ESPECIALLY with the innovations the turbo world has seen in the last handful of years. When Hahn and everyone else say "500hp turbo", that's BHP, not WHP.
As far as you statement about a lot of DSM guys running the S20G's, that's because they're very reliable and they're cheap. A friend of mine has ran his for 6 years now, but the general consensus for the last 10+ years has been that the lag vs power is sub-par compared to other hybrid turbos, ESPECIALLY with the innovations the turbo world has seen in the last handful of years. When Hahn and everyone else say "500hp turbo", that's BHP, not WHP.
That's cool. And as soon as I feel like I've really pushed this turbo, then ill gladly switch over another turbo. I hear what you're saying Rob, and I guess I just regret throwing out a blatant hp number for everyone. What's more important to me is that I'm just finally going to get to see what my turbo can do. Between the pcv issue you helped me with, the tranny bushings, and the spark plug, I haven't really got a chance to open it up.
Sure, but at what rpm? Also you turbo guys are alot gentler on the bottom end that I am. I'm an sc purist, just in here to learn.

I didn't realize his dyno had been posted. Where did I miss it?
starting problems
Hey guys im new to this thread im running the zzp complete swap kit with 252et turbo. I recently brought my car up to zzp and got some bad news about my engine, low compression in #2 cylinder (180 110 170 180). I brought it there because it would take alot of trys to get to start. They thought it was a cam angle sensor and they adjusted it and said it should be fine so i go pick it up take it to my house and now it wont start at all. It cranks but wont start, Throwing P0230 code (Fuel pump Circuit) . I changed the relay and that wasnt it. but the connection in that spot is a lot looser than all the other relays. I just want it to be able to start so i wont have to have the car shipped to zzp when i put a new engine in...
Wouldn't it depend on how much power you'd be making up to 8200 vs how much power you'd be making at the rpm you drop to in the next gear? I mean, it's not like power just completely falls off the map after 7500.
If the power lever holds steady past where the stock cams choke out (7500-7600, iirc), then it'd probably be more advantageous to hold that power to 8200, instead of shifting at 7500 and dropping to an RPM where you'd be making less power than if you'd shifted at 8200. AKA, you'd have a higher average power level by shifting at 8200 than at 7500.
When I ran against Area's TVS car, his biggest gains came from revving out to 8000 vs my 7400.
If the power lever holds steady past where the stock cams choke out (7500-7600, iirc), then it'd probably be more advantageous to hold that power to 8200, instead of shifting at 7500 and dropping to an RPM where you'd be making less power than if you'd shifted at 8200. AKA, you'd have a higher average power level by shifting at 8200 than at 7500.
When I ran against Area's TVS car, his biggest gains came from revving out to 8000 vs my 7400.
Going to sell my ZFR and get a bigger turbo. With this new motor i am going to want more than this EFR can give me. Will post new numbers soon. Will most likely swap things in a week or so.
Wouldn't it depend on how much power you'd be making up to 8200 vs how much power you'd be making at the rpm you drop to in the next gear? I mean, it's not like power just completely falls off the map after 7500.
If the power lever holds steady past where the stock cams choke out (7500-7600, iirc), then it'd probably be more advantageous to hold that power to 8200, instead of shifting at 7500 and dropping to an RPM where you'd be making less power than if you'd shifted at 8200. AKA, you'd have a higher average power level by shifting at 8200 than at 7500.
When I ran against Area's TVS car, his biggest gains came from revving out to 8000 vs my 7400.
If the power lever holds steady past where the stock cams choke out (7500-7600, iirc), then it'd probably be more advantageous to hold that power to 8200, instead of shifting at 7500 and dropping to an RPM where you'd be making less power than if you'd shifted at 8200. AKA, you'd have a higher average power level by shifting at 8200 than at 7500.
When I ran against Area's TVS car, his biggest gains came from revving out to 8000 vs my 7400.
I thought it was later than that. It'd be nice if we had some good cam options and a valvetrain that wouldn't crumble under them.




