Official Turbo LSJ thread!!!
Senior Member
Joined: 09-10-09
Posts: 938
Likes: 1
From: Ontario California
Check it out
2007 Chevy Cobalt SS
2007 Chevy Cobalt SS
Ah, okay. Good thinking. I've seen the Turbos that have those built in, pretty nifty.
As far as AFR and Timing... the more the merrier. For the AFR, I'd ramp it down from 14.7. A lot of people seem to just flatline their AFR... so as soon as they mash the gas, it goes to 11.5 or whatever. That's safe... but its not the best for spooling fast. I'd start at 14.7 and slowly work my way down to 12.0 by the time it hit full boost. Cut out a decent chunk of spool time like that. It takes some calculating and some time... even more so once you have to adjust it because of what you gain. With the timing... basically the same concept. I ran a lot of timing throughout my map, until the turbo was spooled. I haven't looked at it in a while, but I think that around 5psi or so, it was still around 32* of timing. I ramped it down, as well. That gave a huge improvement, not only in spool. time... but also in how ballsy the car was out of boost.
That charge piping will do it. I run 2.5" I/C piping all around (shortest route possible, as well) with an 8" long section of 3" piping for the MAF.
As far as AFR and Timing... the more the merrier. For the AFR, I'd ramp it down from 14.7. A lot of people seem to just flatline their AFR... so as soon as they mash the gas, it goes to 11.5 or whatever. That's safe... but its not the best for spooling fast. I'd start at 14.7 and slowly work my way down to 12.0 by the time it hit full boost. Cut out a decent chunk of spool time like that. It takes some calculating and some time... even more so once you have to adjust it because of what you gain. With the timing... basically the same concept. I ran a lot of timing throughout my map, until the turbo was spooled. I haven't looked at it in a while, but I think that around 5psi or so, it was still around 32* of timing. I ramped it down, as well. That gave a huge improvement, not only in spool. time... but also in how ballsy the car was out of boost.
That charge piping will do it. I run 2.5" I/C piping all around (shortest route possible, as well) with an 8" long section of 3" piping for the MAF.
Im running a very similar setup IC piping wise as Rob, no need for 3" except for in the MAF regions
I strongly suggest(I actually think it should be a requirement before anyone is allowed to purchase a turbo) that you pick up a copy of Corky Bell's Maximum Boost, this book will save you tons of headaches. I promise. Ive had a copy forever, and wont ever let go of it.
l8r,
PD
I, as well as a large number of other LSJ's, run this: EXTREME TURBO SYSTEMS 7" STREET INTERCOOLER ONLY (450HP): 2G DSM #21427
Awesome intercooler. Well worth the money. I'd cruise at 1-2* above ambient and at most, I'd peak 10* above ambient when WOT.
I strongly suggest(I actually think it should be a requirement before anyone is allowed to purchase a turbo) that you pick up a copy of Corky Bell's Maximum Boost, this book will save you tons of headaches. I promise. Ive had a copy forever, and wont ever let go of it.
l8r,
PD
l8r,
PD
Okay guys. I'm REALLY REALLY torn...I <3 my S/C but I want to make more power. (as we all want to)
I'm stuck between selling the balt a little early and picking up a LNF or just saving up for the Swap. That would mean I lose the S/c + pully, Vibrant Header/DP, Heat Exchanger, (option B?) Injen intake. probably Ingalls TD as well....
Would I be better off buying the Turbo kit and parting out or selling the LSJ or getting a LNF?
This would probably happen closer to the end of this year of beg of next year. I just want to figure out what would be best and start planning on a savings budget for that.
Also: Would I need bigger brakes?
Previous Goals: 300....
new Goal: 375
I'm stuck between selling the balt a little early and picking up a LNF or just saving up for the Swap. That would mean I lose the S/c + pully, Vibrant Header/DP, Heat Exchanger, (option B?) Injen intake. probably Ingalls TD as well....
Would I be better off buying the Turbo kit and parting out or selling the LSJ or getting a LNF?
This would probably happen closer to the end of this year of beg of next year. I just want to figure out what would be best and start planning on a savings budget for that.
Also: Would I need bigger brakes?
Previous Goals: 300....
new Goal: 375
You'll hate the down pipe and dump tube. Also your down pipe most likely won't fit your exhaust because ZZP uses a huge gasket and most exhausts don't have that huge gasket. Lol
Okay guys. I'm REALLY REALLY torn...I <3 my S/C but I want to make more power. (as we all want to)
I'm stuck between selling the balt a little early and picking up a LNF or just saving up for the Swap. That would mean I lose the S/c + pully, Vibrant Header/DP, Heat Exchanger, (option B?) Injen intake. probably Ingalls TD as well....
Would I be better off buying the Turbo kit and parting out or selling the LSJ or getting a LNF?
This would probably happen closer to the end of this year of beg of next year. I just want to figure out what would be best and start planning on a savings budget for that.
Also: Would I need bigger brakes?
Previous Goals: 300....
new Goal: 375
I'm stuck between selling the balt a little early and picking up a LNF or just saving up for the Swap. That would mean I lose the S/c + pully, Vibrant Header/DP, Heat Exchanger, (option B?) Injen intake. probably Ingalls TD as well....
Would I be better off buying the Turbo kit and parting out or selling the LSJ or getting a LNF?
This would probably happen closer to the end of this year of beg of next year. I just want to figure out what would be best and start planning on a savings budget for that.
Also: Would I need bigger brakes?
Previous Goals: 300....
new Goal: 375
Otherwise, sell the S/C kit off your car and put a Turbo Kit on the car. Switching to an LNF will put you basically right back in the same situation, as you aren't going to be able to make 375whp on the stock turbo, and now you own more on the car you drive.
Larger brakes aren't required, necessarily. Quality brakes are though. LSJ brakes are more than capable with the correct Pad/Rotor set-up and when bled properly (most people don't bled them properly - they are NOT the traditional rear/front bleed pattern).
with the zzp turbo swap what does the dip stick bolt to? the closest area is about half an inch above where a mounting hole is on the dip stick. or does it just hang free?
So, did an oil change on my car today. Here's what I found:
This is looking up from the oil pan. Pictured is my turbo w/the black return line. Notice something about the return line?
Came up top to track it down. Thought it was the catch can, but then I saw this at the feed line:
Any ideas? Probably another symptom of why I'm smoking out the tailpipe. My guess is that there's too much oil pressure and it's pushing out somewhere....
This is looking up from the oil pan. Pictured is my turbo w/the black return line. Notice something about the return line?
Came up top to track it down. Thought it was the catch can, but then I saw this at the feed line:
Any ideas? Probably another symptom of why I'm smoking out the tailpipe. My guess is that there's too much oil pressure and it's pushing out somewhere....
ss/sc turbo swap cobalt - YouTube
Keep the Supercharger and use Nitrous if you like it that much.
Otherwise, sell the S/C kit off your car and put a Turbo Kit on the car. Switching to an LNF will put you basically right back in the same situation, as you aren't going to be able to make 375whp on the stock turbo, and now you own more on the car you drive.
Larger brakes aren't required, necessarily. Quality brakes are though. LSJ brakes are more than capable with the correct Pad/Rotor set-up and when bled properly (most people don't bled them properly - they are NOT the traditional rear/front bleed pattern).
Otherwise, sell the S/C kit off your car and put a Turbo Kit on the car. Switching to an LNF will put you basically right back in the same situation, as you aren't going to be able to make 375whp on the stock turbo, and now you own more on the car you drive.
Larger brakes aren't required, necessarily. Quality brakes are though. LSJ brakes are more than capable with the correct Pad/Rotor set-up and when bled properly (most people don't bled them properly - they are NOT the traditional rear/front bleed pattern).
IDK I have some more time to think, What's the dfference between the HAHN and ZZP kit besides the Turbo? Will the 20g match the 256? Is one more reliable?
Senior Member
Joined: 08-02-07
Posts: 5,531
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From: Bay Area, CA
here's a vid of mark's car before he really started ******* with it:
ss/sc turbo swap cobalt - YouTube
ss/sc turbo swap cobalt - YouTube
that's exsoccer's car. He's on a zzp kit, among "other" things. Just shows the capability of what an lsj can do when you do a proper turbo swap. Start on page 1 of this thread and you'll find other reasons to turbo your ride.
Mexi loco, u are over oiling, time for a restrictor or smaller feed. What size r u using?
Chris come take a ride in my car and u will be convinced.
Dip sick is just loose, you can zip tie it if u need to
The s256 can make more boost and the Kit is slightly cheaper. The 20g is a nice setup a well, it's really preference
L8r,
PD
Chris come take a ride in my car and u will be convinced.
Dip sick is just loose, you can zip tie it if u need to
The s256 can make more boost and the Kit is slightly cheaper. The 20g is a nice setup a well, it's really preference
L8r,
PD
Mexi loco, u are over oiling, time for a restrictor or smaller feed. What size r u using?
Chris come take a ride in my car and u will be convinced.
Dip sick is just loose, you can zip tie it if u need to
The s256 can make more boost and the Kit is slightly cheaper. The 20g is a nice setup a well, it's really preference
L8r,
PD
Chris come take a ride in my car and u will be convinced.
Dip sick is just loose, you can zip tie it if u need to
The s256 can make more boost and the Kit is slightly cheaper. The 20g is a nice setup a well, it's really preference
L8r,
PD
So, did an oil change on my car today. Here's what I found:
This is looking up from the oil pan. Pictured is my turbo w/the black return line. Notice something about the return line?
Came up top to track it down. Thought it was the catch can, but then I saw this at the feed line:
Any ideas? Probably another symptom of why I'm smoking out the tailpipe. My guess is that there's too much oil pressure and it's pushing out somewhere....
This is looking up from the oil pan. Pictured is my turbo w/the black return line. Notice something about the return line?
Came up top to track it down. Thought it was the catch can, but then I saw this at the feed line:
Any ideas? Probably another symptom of why I'm smoking out the tailpipe. My guess is that there's too much oil pressure and it's pushing out somewhere....
Don't even consider the Hahn kit, imo. Quality has gone down a lot in the last 5 years and the S20G isn't comparable in the slightest to the S256ET. 256 is a MUCH better turbo.