I do to, so it fits in no problem? Don't have to widen the whole or anything?

 

Nope. Fit fine

 

Its digital and analog. Ingot the fittings for brake booster, evap and bov I see the one you spoke of but it looks already plugged

 

digital and analog? it has the analog sweeper and the digital readout in the mid?

 

yep exactly like aem's wideband gauge

 

i have an 06 ss turbo swap. I bought it already done. I had to do a motor swap on it too. I am new to cobalts and boosted cars. I am lookin for a place to get info, some advice too. I am more than willin to tell you my exeriences and wut i got done. if you could get back to me it would be great

 

Well I guess your in the right place

 

all digital then cause around the edge is just digital light not a pin like an analog, i didnt think they made an analog/digital in one lol

 

Hey everyone, this thread is huge btw!!

I've got some questions, I thought I had my problem diagnosed with a compression test and a valve seal replacement. I noticed when pressurizing each cylinder that air was going past the rings and coming up through the crankcase vents in the head.. I wondered if it was just because of the pressure (100psi) that it did this, but everything at that point was pointing towards blown rings.

So we finished installing the valve springs and valve seals and put everything back together in hopes that it was valve seals. But after the test drive I was still pumping out a ton of smoke from the tailpipe.

So there's a couple things i've been able to determine with some checks:
1) All spark plugs are wet with either oil, gas or a mixture of both
2) All pistons are black on the top (used a flashlight and looked inside)
3) Smoke from tailpipe is mostly oil, but is sometimes gas at startup because my idle tune hasn't been finalized yet.
4) There's oil in the intake manifold and boost pipes, not a ton though, pipes are just wet
5) There's also oil on the intake cold side of the turbo (without a PVC return line hooked up to the intake pipe), this one stumps me............ Makes me think that oils getting by the turbo seals..
6) Before I had my tune I had a similar problem and it was related to my oil drain being too small.. Oil was getting past the turbo seals and going into the engine because it had no where else to squeeze through under pressure. Im wondering if this problem was ever fully fixed, im going to be checking if my oil drain is plugged tonight or tomorrow morning.
7)Lastly the turbo is a GT3071R that was used when I bought it.

So the questions are;

a. Do you think its bottom end or should I try rebuilding the turbo or purchasing a zzp S256?
b. Whats the purpose of an extended tip turbo, what difference does it make?
c. If you don't think its the turbo what would you suggest for bottom end upgrades?


So basically i'm looking for some help pretty quickly so I can get this beast on the road and achieve my end goals of 400hp...

Attached are some pics below of what I've found:

 

What are you doing for crankcase ventilation?
What size is your oil feed/restrictor?
Did you rebuild the turbo after receiving it?
Your getting air through the nipple on the valve cover while doing leak down/compression test?

Several things could be your issue. If your feed is too large or not the proper restrictor will over oil the turbo. If you arent venting enough crankcase pressure then you can cause over oiling of the turbo. If the seals were bad when you received the turbo itll leak. etc. etc etc

My suggestion is to have rebuild done on the turbo, if there is no damage to the wheels and its just seals then it doesnt cost a lot. Typically a rebuild can be done for $300-$500 depending on the shop, I rebuild my own and save a lot.

What is important to know here is that like all other things, ONCE THE SEAL IS BLOWN IT WILL NOT STOP LEAKING, you absolutely have to replace the seals, just stepping down this or stepping up that will not fix your issue.

Check all of your drain lines and make sure that the drain is above the oil level in the pan. Also, if there is a dip below and then back up, oil will sit in the line, which will cause issues.

 

Thanks for the help man, what size oil restrictor should I have, I am using the one that came with the turbo...

I didnt rebuild the turbo, I asked a specialist and he told me that before I do seals I should fix the drain line, which I did.. He said the seals will always let oil past them if there forced past. There is a small dip in the bottom of the drain line, but no more of a dip then the angle of the motor. In other words, my fitting isnt on a 45 degree angle upwards. Also the fitting is at the top of the oil pan, so I would think its above the oil line.

When I was doing the valve seals (ie. pressurizing the chamber to hold valve seals up) the air was coming through the rectangular openings on the front and back of the top of the head. Ie. the channels that go up into the valve cover and out the PVC pipe onthe back of the valve cover.

 

yeah not with a needle if you have an aem wideband its the exact same just says boost

 

Anyone know what spring is in the zzp bov? Also a suggestion on where online to get a new spring and what stiffness i should get. I want to get a weaker spring bc I've been getting what seems to be a little bit of turbo flutter if I'm driving casually, go into boost a couple psi and let off the gas.

 

Im not sure what spring is in the BOV but i may be able to add something...

I have a Turbosmart BOV and i get some pretty good flutter under low boost situations (<5psi). I may be wrong in saying this but it makes sense to me...but i think its going to be kinda hard to avoid with a big turbo. You want a farely stiff spring to be able to hold the high amounts of boost/air that the big turbo pushes. If you get a weaker spring that opens up better at low boost, you have some boost leak once you get to higher boost. Like i said, i have no info that im taking this from...this just makes sense in my head

 

I would junk the zzp bov, i had one and went to turn the barb fitting into it and the whole threaded piece that the barb fitting went into came loose and i had to open it up and loctite it lulz needless to say i got the tial and am happy.
Bov spring is determined by how much vacuum car sees at idle too.

 

I oredered the Tial when I got my kit, if i was spending 5 grand i wouldn't get a knock off

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm just worried that I'm going to buy the trial bov and the same thing is going to happen.

Were you getting flutter with the zzp bov as well?

 

IDK I never put it on after seeing that I just threw it in the box for a give away if someone wanted it lol. Got a greddy type rs and that thing fluttered like a biotch. Said fk it and got the tial, and haven't had any issue. It stays open at idle with the spring zzp sent but doesn't have any ill effect cause it's pre maf.

 

Damn all of the expensive BOVs in here lol. Im running a stock 1G DSM BOV without any issues. $30 ftw.

 

What does it sound like when it stays open at idle? A loud annoying hissing noise or is it faint?

 

I run a Tial Q bov

 

Na it doesn't make any noise cause it's not releasing any pressure and there's barely any air moving at idle. As soon as any throttle is applied it closes up and stays sealed. I got a pink spring to put in it but was told by numerous people that it doesn't release pressure properly with it and that having it open at idle is no problem cause it's pre maf and can be accounted for.

 

Thanks looks like I'm ordering the tial today

 

Yea it costs more but its tial so u know ur getting a quality piece Idk where zzp gets their bov from but from my personal experience its junk. (I actually got mine off of the statamatta website but I think they're the same thing).

 

Ghetto! No wonder on all the videos I can here surging!