Official TVS Thread!!!
(engine rpm x crank pulley / s/c pulley = ...............)
Your seeing 18,200 by 7000 rpm on the oem crank pulley. with the 2.5 tvs ring.
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On another note...
The TVS 1320's RPM max efficiency is directly related to the thermal temps which is the side effect of pressure. (directly related to CFM output of the blower)
Your TVS's needle bearings will handle 18200 rpm @ 7000 rpm for brief moments. Just keep the blower's thermal temps down and ensure the needle bearings stay lubricated with proper service intervals.
The easiest way to keep the thermal temps down is pulley it back up... heat is a direct result of pressure caused by the 2.5 ring. (Water/meth plays a huge role as well)
Figure out how to make 25 psi, 15 psi while maintaining the same CFM flow from the blower's outlet.
So ever since I've put my TVS on I've been battling a belt squealing problem when the car is cold. Once it's warm it stops. I've checked to make sure the belt is on straight, changed the tensioner pulley and changed the belt. If I rub a little WD40 on the belt when it's running it will stop squealing for a few seconds but then come back. The new belt stopped the noise for about a week but now it's back. I got my TVS from OTTP with the pulley on. Perhaps it's possible the pulley is on backwards? Does someone have a pic of what the proper way to put the pulley on is? I'm running out of ideas!
Sounds crazy but it worked for me. My belt as sqeeked as long as I can remember. But not anymore..
TVS is ******* awesome! Can't believe I went this long having the car without it...
It's about a 6hr ride from my house, so I left my house about 1am got there about 8 their time. Got the TVS in and have a spot on tune, then my IC pump took a **** lol...
Clutch install took about 6 hours with breaks here and there. Honestly feels alot like the stock clutch but the grab is far better..
All in all 12 hours of driving and about 10 messing with with car....def worth it!
BTW I'm tuned by CCSS3 (James)
It's about a 6hr ride from my house, so I left my house about 1am got there about 8 their time. Got the TVS in and have a spot on tune, then my IC pump took a **** lol...
Clutch install took about 6 hours with breaks here and there. Honestly feels alot like the stock clutch but the grab is far better..
All in all 12 hours of driving and about 10 messing with with car....def worth it!
BTW I'm tuned by CCSS3 (James)
Where are you guys drilling for the meth connection on the washer fuild tank. On the flat side or the sloped side?
But I'm not on meth, will be fairly soon so that we can increase timing, but I will have a tank, I won't use the washer fluid tank
Yea I honestly couldn't ask for a better tuner to work with. We have came into problems with my car here and there and he's always been on top of getting the issue at hand resolved ASAP. Would recommend him to anyone!
Engine RPM multiplied by crank diameter divided by s/c pulley = blower rpm @ peak engine rpm
(engine rpm x crank pulley / s/c pulley = ...............)
Your seeing 18,200 by 7000 rpm on the oem crank pulley. with the 2.5 tvs ring.
-------------
On another note...
The TVS 1320's RPM max efficiency is directly related to the thermal temps which is the side effect of pressure. (directly related to CFM output of the blower)
Your TVS's needle bearings will handle 18200 rpm @ 7000 rpm for brief moments. Just keep the blower's thermal temps down and ensure the needle bearings stay lubricated with proper service intervals.
The easiest way to keep the thermal temps down is pulley it back up... heat is a direct result of pressure caused by the 2.5 ring. (Water/meth plays a huge role as well)
Figure out how to make 25 psi, 15 psi while maintaining the same CFM flow from the blower's outlet.
(engine rpm x crank pulley / s/c pulley = ...............)
Your seeing 18,200 by 7000 rpm on the oem crank pulley. with the 2.5 tvs ring.
-------------
On another note...
The TVS 1320's RPM max efficiency is directly related to the thermal temps which is the side effect of pressure. (directly related to CFM output of the blower)
Your TVS's needle bearings will handle 18200 rpm @ 7000 rpm for brief moments. Just keep the blower's thermal temps down and ensure the needle bearings stay lubricated with proper service intervals.
The easiest way to keep the thermal temps down is pulley it back up... heat is a direct result of pressure caused by the 2.5 ring. (Water/meth plays a huge role as well)
Figure out how to make 25 psi, 15 psi while maintaining the same CFM flow from the blower's outlet.
whats the stock crank pulley size? 6.5 right?
and whats the max tvs efficient rpm? i need to stay below that so im trying to figure what rpm to run the engine at when i buy a different pulley, or even better i can match the pulley to what i spin the engine to with the cams im getting.
and temps arent a problem for my car
also on the 2.5 my psi is about 22
but that will be dropping way down with my cams, but then back up with the rpms i plan on running.
its a horrible cycle
Last edited by freakta; May 26, 2012 at 08:43 AM.
youre in the same boat im about to be in. I was on a 2.6 seeing about 23-24psi at sea level with a stock head and cams, When the new setup is done the head is ported, ill be running cams, 82# valve springs, neutral balance shafts and for now im going to leave the rev limit at the pcms limit of 8192 i believe it is. When we work around that and i get the money for the ati over drive dampner then ill raise it to 8.5-9k rpms. Im going to break my setup in with putting my 2.7 back on since ill be flowing more cfms with less boost, but when i spin her past 8k i will be going to a bigger pulley such as a 2.8 or a 2.9 to keep the TVS in her efficiency range
Thread Starter
Joined: 03-16-10
Posts: 10,948
Likes: 33
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
youre in the same boat im about to be in. I was on a 2.6 seeing about 23-24psi at sea level with a stock head and cams, When the new setup is done the head is ported, ill be running cams, 82# valve springs, neutral balance shafts and for now im going to leave the rev limit at the pcms limit of 8192 i believe it is. When we work around that and i get the money for the ati over drive dampner then ill raise it to 8.5-9k rpms. Im going to break my setup in with putting my 2.7 back on since ill be flowing more cfms with less boost, but when i spin her past 8k i will be going to a bigger pulley such as a 2.8 or a 2.9 to keep the TVS in her efficiency range
thanks thats great info, now ive got a question
whats the stock crank pulley size? 6.5 right?
and whats the max tvs efficient rpm? i need to stay below that so im trying to figure what rpm to run the engine at when i buy a different pulley, or even better i can match the pulley to what i spin the engine to with the cams im getting.
and temps arent a problem for my car
also on the 2.5 my psi is about 22
but that will be dropping way down with my cams, but then back up with the rpms i plan on running.
its a horrible cycle
whats the stock crank pulley size? 6.5 right?
and whats the max tvs efficient rpm? i need to stay below that so im trying to figure what rpm to run the engine at when i buy a different pulley, or even better i can match the pulley to what i spin the engine to with the cams im getting.
and temps arent a problem for my car
also on the 2.5 my psi is about 22
but that will be dropping way down with my cams, but then back up with the rpms i plan on running.
its a horrible cycle
Go to eatons site and look at the 1320 graph
Magnuson made one for their tvs 1900 and thr max psi is 18 with a peak rpm of 18000 or 19000 before overspinning.
If you end up needing custom ceramic made, Alliance Bearing out here in socal will make custom bearings. But the order has to be a minimum of 50 or 100 +
And ceramic bearings are not cheap :/
btw.. your 300-350 goal wont happen on 91 out here.