Official TVS Thread!!!
Engine
Should be ready to go in the next week or two.
- Block
- ZZPerformance girdled LE5 block (from 2.4L Ecotec LE5 - 88mm/3.465” bore)
- Stock LSJ crankshaft (86mm/3.386" stroke)
- Eagle 4340 forged steel rods/ARP 2000 bolts (for 2.2 Ecotec L61 - 146mm/5.765" center-to-center length)
- Diamond pistons - custom order (10.5:1 CR)
- Total Seal Gapless rings
- Level Zero Performance balance shaft delete kit
- ATI Superdamper
- Ecotec LSJ oilpan
- New GM OEM thermostat, gears, gaskets, water pump, bearings, chains, chain guides, bolts, seals where applicable
- Total displacement = 2.1L
- Head
- Ported/polished intake/exhaust ports
- Stock valves with 3-angle valve job
- ZZPerformance Stage 2 supercharged cams
- ZZPerformance 82# valve springs
- ARP headstuds
- Ecotec LNF piston oil squirters
- New GM OEM lifters, followers, valve guides, LE5 headgasket, bolts, bearings, gaskets where applicable
- Power Adder
- Harrop HTV 1320 LSJ - Eaton TVS 1320 series rotors
- 2.7" Supercharger pulley
- Air-to-water single-pass intercooler system, electric water pump, added aftermarket flow-through tank
- Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacer
- Exhaust
- ZZPerformance Longtube, equal-length header
- ZZPerformance 3" downpipe w/Magnaflow high-flow cat, Magnaflow resonator
- ZZPerformance 3" cat-back exhaust w/Magnaflow muffler
- AEM UEGO Wideband
- Fuel System
- Stock fuel pump
- ZZPerformance Boost-Referenced Fuel Pressure System
- Stock fuel lines
- Injector Dynamics ID1000 - 1000cc fuel injectors
- E85
Should be ready to go in the next week or two.
post 88
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...49/index4.html
Last edited by mrbelvedere; Jun 2, 2012 at 04:39 PM.
Imagine if we had a Y pipe design mid-length or long tube that separated into two separate collectors, crossed at an x-pipe mid car, two pipes over the axle (like a 04 gto) and went into a dual inlet muffler.
We wouldn't have a shitty sounding car anymore, that's what...
If only I knew how to tig...
We wouldn't have a shitty sounding car anymore, that's what...
If only I knew how to tig...
Senior Member
Joined: 03-12-07
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, Ohio
not much your gonna run out of fuel pump
post 88
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...49/index4.html
post 88
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...49/index4.html
Senior Member
Joined: 03-12-07
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, Ohio
Yeah, I had 79# injectors that were at 120% at 6500 rpm on E85. Not the pump's fault. The fuel pressure gauge was still reading just fine.
Unless they updated their information from previous instructions, this is what mine read. Maybe they revised their instructions or something. I don't know.
Quoting from the paper :
Unless they updated their information from previous instructions, this is what mine read. Maybe they revised their instructions or something. I don't know.
Quoting from the paper :
Originally Posted by ARP
INSTALLATION METHOD FOR HEAD STUD KITS
190,000 Psi 7/16-inch Diameter
[1] To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean and re-tap ALL threads in the block. Re-tap only if necessary.
[2] Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length, and dimension.
[3] a. If cylinder head studs protrude into water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
b. If cylinder head studs protrude into blind hole, lubricate the threads, nuts & washers with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT or 30wt motor oil.
c. Screw studs into the block "HAND TIGHT ONLY".
Note: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
[4] Install cylinder heads and check for binding or misalignment.
[5] ARP recommends using the ARP MOLY LUBRICANT or at the very least, a good quality Moly Lubricant as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil (or low quality lubricant) is used.
PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS:
(A) Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70 ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER) or torque to 85 ft lbs with 30wt motor oil.
(B) Due to the expansion rate of ALUMINUM, it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ft lbs with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER).
190,000 Psi 7/16-inch Diameter
[1] To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean and re-tap ALL threads in the block. Re-tap only if necessary.
[2] Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length, and dimension.
[3] a. If cylinder head studs protrude into water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
b. If cylinder head studs protrude into blind hole, lubricate the threads, nuts & washers with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT or 30wt motor oil.
c. Screw studs into the block "HAND TIGHT ONLY".
Note: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
[4] Install cylinder heads and check for binding or misalignment.
[5] ARP recommends using the ARP MOLY LUBRICANT or at the very least, a good quality Moly Lubricant as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil (or low quality lubricant) is used.
PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS:
(A) Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 70 ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER) or torque to 85 ft lbs with 30wt motor oil.
(B) Due to the expansion rate of ALUMINUM, it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ft lbs with ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT (or ARP THREAD SEALER).
Last edited by Tennpenn83; Jun 3, 2012 at 07:10 AM.
Hey guys just ordered the phelonic spacer from zzp, is there any problems with fitment when it comes to the TVS. I have the Stage 2 belt and 2.9 pulley now and its one hell of a fit. Just wondering if I should go back to the Stock belt of if I will be fine with the Stage 2 smaller belt. Thanks!
Just promise you will go to the dyno. I am sick of all the girls on this site running ZZP S2 cams without knowing what HP/TQ benefit the cams have.
If I had to guess, I would say
375/320
Conservatively...
If I had to guess, I would say
375/320
Conservatively...
Last edited by ebristol; Jun 4, 2012 at 02:49 PM.
Slapped a TVS on my 90K mile stock L61 the other day. Limiting it to 13psi on stock pulley until I can yank the car out of DD service and rehab the long block. It is loving it so far, but I need a bigger methanol nozzle, so if anyone is looking to dump off a 10gph nozzle for cheap I'm in the market for one.
As far as the belt fittment I had both the IM spacer as well as the AL blower spacer and the stock length belt would not fit even with a 2.9" pulley. I had to pull the AL spacer and put the stock 80mm pulley on the get a setup that worked.
As far as the belt fittment I had both the IM spacer as well as the AL blower spacer and the stock length belt would not fit even with a 2.9" pulley. I had to pull the AL spacer and put the stock 80mm pulley on the get a setup that worked.
Thanks. It's been a great car, and after five years and over 60,000 miles of raping it with the M62 it's still holding together somehow. It will be fun to take it apart and see how everything on the inside looks.
Thread Starter
Joined: 03-16-10
Posts: 10,948
Likes: 33
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
I bought my car new and wrote it off with 192,000km on it. It never ever skipped a beat. Built better than my cobalt lol. Got any dyno numbers or track times?