ok i just installed this and i'm a bit stumped..

the PROBLEM is, my iat's are climbing way fast and not coming down much, and i think its because coolant is not being pulled from the surge tank through the hose to the filler neck setup.

first off, my setup is stock h/e, to ottp h/e, and a dual pass, phelonic spacer and meth.

from what the gm instructions seemed to be showing, i needed to remove the filler cap setup in front of my supercharger and replace it with a t-fitting, with the top of it going to the optioni b tank.

so i did that. heres the pic. the left side hose comes from the endplate, the right hose goes to the pump IN, and the top goes to (or comes from) the surge tank (opt. b)



then i put in the npt fitting and air restricter thing on the stock h/e as shown here, and ran it to the tank... and it seems to be working and bleeding air, as seen..



and here's the tank.



SO... whats wrong with my setup? coolant is not moving out of the tank. is it because the hose goes up and down and therefore coolant can't make its way to where the T fitting is? i thought the IC pump was a PUMP that would suck it from the tank? no? p.s. last i checked my i.c. pump was working and it has to be in order for the coolant to have made its way up the air bleed valve. and there is no kink in the hoses either, nothing major anyway.

if that's the case, what would be a better way to run it? i couldn't really find a good way to get it from the tank to the T without either hitting the belt, or just going sloppily over the engine and S/C which i don't want... but anyway is that my problem or did i somehow do this completely wrong?

additional: i was cruising and iat2's were hovering 30-40 above ambient but going up a bit by bit. during a 2nd gear pull they shot to almost 100. i know thats not right, usually they dont even do that on a 2nd & 3rd gear pull.

Edit. Just sitting in my garage monitoring the system the iat2 reached 91. Its forty degrees out!

 

its because the hose goes up and over the rad support. its higher then the cooant level so coolant can pass through and enter the system. re-route that hose so its lower then the tank but not lower then the t-fitting and doesnt have any high spots.

 

man im not sure how i could route it without any high spots... i mean the out on the tank is lower than the t fitting! maybe i could modify the tfitting setup to make it lower?

p.s. for referance heres a pic of how it is routed
[/QUOTE]

 

as long as the hose is low enough so that it doesnt go above the coolant level in tank it should flow fine.

 

There is a better diagram than that one floating around here somewhere

 

Coolant mixed with air is supposed to.come from the h/e all the way to the surfe tank right? I guess thats how it circulates... Like this?

 

Not much air escaping anymore i guess that means there is no more air in the system atleast...

Anyone got a pic of how they routed their hose better?

 

AFAIK Option B isnt supposed to "circulate"

You could just make it a flow thru tank instead, which does circulate

 

Was wondering this as well. When cruising my IAT2's would hit 100 in a 35-40 degree day.

 

well anyone that has done this: please tell me where exactly the line from the tank goes. like is it attached to the support RIGHT in front of the s/c puley? that would make me nervous but after looking at it for a while, seems to be the only way to go and have the hose only go down

 

What about running it through washer resovior filler neck spot?

 

im no help here...







hope you get it installed correctly





post

 

I routed mine around the washer fluid tank. It works fine, you shouldn't have a problem if you go that way

 

Honestly when tuning ur car your IAT2's were low and with meth your recovery was well. Like I told you before the option b was a waste for what you use your car for. You aren't doing back to back pulls nor do you road race.

 

Yeah but i just wanted to ensure that its always as cold as possible. I see no harm in ensuring that the system has no air in it.

And beside last night (before the install) i raced five different cars almost in a row!

A 02 camaro twice, a g35, a 6.0 gto twice, a ws6 and a genesis. Only car that beat me good was the ws6; everyone else i either barely beat or was hangin on their rear bumper. Not a bad night

 

Yea honestly tho for you will not see much if any change. At least that was my experience...

 

Might not be much of a change. Im bout to go reroute it to see if i can make it work as afformentioned. Will take more pics and post results. I atleast want it to be the same as before with 30* over ambient temps idling!

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...2/diagram2.jpg

 

Yea, run it in front of pulley right against the frame and then run it to a y-fitting

 

Thats the route i have.

I reran the hoses.

It now goes down under the washer fluid res, there is a small opening under it that leads into the engine bay along the frame. I flipped over the hosing on the endplate so that it leads down instead of up. The hose from the resovior goes into that then the pump

Air is no longer escaping from the system and my iat2s are still high

Will take pics when its bright out tomorrow. This is a fail.

 

you dont have a dual pass apparently so that is not the routing you have. You didnt buy the system from, me, so you are missing someprotective parts; running the 3/4 inch hose through the tie bar is best. A "Y" fitting rather than a "T" is best. A straight rather than a 90 deg. fitting is better for a cobalt on the H/E.

The diagram posted from GM that I put up is correct. The second h/e is an issue they dont do much, especially the OTT ones; check out the ZZP comparison Zoomer posted on here ages ago; I dont see tape on the 90 degree fitting on the stock H/e; I am not sure of the size of the restrictor, it should be .040.

All of those things can lead to sucking air into the system and thats all I can suggest.


So based on what i see you have leaks potentially from the h/e fitting. the plastic clip is not a good seal and the 1/8 npt fitting may also be leaking.

good luck.

 

You need to make sure ur dual pass cores are also ran the correct way, if I rememeber u said urs where backwards like mine so these pics wont help you at all.

 

that is true but he doesnt say he has dual pass. If he does, its just not plumbed right as you say...

 

Paying attention as I've just ordered an Option B kit. Rice does say he has dual pass in his OP.

 

his first post says he has a dual pass.