okay you are right. thats prolly riceburners problem, vander nars for the win

 

gelladuga option B is very easy, sometimes the kits are incomplete by my standards. routing though the radiator tie bar is an elegant solution to getting around the pulley. the issues to look for include stripped threads in the h/e and Y pieces instead of T so the fluid has an easy routing, along with protective conduit. Also the restrictor size is important and the cheap kits have crappy hose and crappy clamps etc. you get what you pay for...

 

Im guessig no one has a pic for how to route hoses if ur dual pass core are the opposite of the stardard gm way?

 

yeah i do have a dual pass and i switched the cored the same way 07metallicSC had it in his how to thread. my iat's were good before this opt b business

 

one definate problem that i have currently is the hose got a bit kinked up coming down from the resiovour... i think its good the rest of the way but its really hard to tell. my arms got all cut up last night trying to route all this ****... my arms look like i was cutting for bieber

so maybe i'll have to replace the hose that zzp supplied with a better one that doesn't f*cking kink

p.s. thank you so much to everybody on helping me. means a lot!

 

that bieber **** was so funny, i mean not funny that kids hurt themselves, but funny that kids hurt themselves. Am I a bad person?

 

the hose in that kit is surely easy to kink...good eye....

 

its funny don't worry. its natural selection at work

i think a barbed hose or a hose with like a steel skeleton (idk how to put it lol) would be better. do your kits come with such a hose?

 

I use Goodyear premium hose for the 3/4 inch, I use Goodyear fuel injection hose for the bleed line and fuel line clamps for the small hose as well. I have used the steel skeleton from Goodyear for difficult installs ( the fmic is one such) and avoid "T"where possible. It is possible to use the "T "in the dual pass to limit sharp turns; the "Y" connector helps as well and running it through the tie bar helps even more and the protective conduit helps a little.
For the race cars Devon made an welded alloy Y connector that worked very nicely...

The rad tie bar has to be opened up a little to route the hose through it, a little silicone on the hose helps it through.

 

I used. Couple 90's around the washer fluid reservoir so it wouldn't kink. It's been working for about 2 years for me

 

Oh NOW i know what you guys mean for the rad tie bar! Ok so maybe next weekend ill try that route... Def. Will just get some 90 hoses that just makes the most sense to get rid of these kinks. And some y connectors. Thanks!

For those with the option b how what are your iats usually at?

 

20 degrees over iat1 after 5 consecutive power pulls on the dyno in 45 minutes.

 

(have nothing to contribute, just feel the need to post in an epic Riceburner thread. It's like gravity, man)

 

^^^^ aww look at all this brutherly luv..

 

20* over iat1... i'm envious now... well i got till early april to get this all sorted out, when i plan to hit the 1/4 and pull low 13's hopefully

 

You want the coolant tank to be the highest point in the cooling system. Also, I recommend lifting the tank up when you first start filling it to help burp the system. This helps to jump start the bleeding process.

I would re-route your lines as well.

 

thanks for the help man.

 

No problem

 

Did you swap the laminovas positions?
Check the instructions here.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/sidekit.pdf

 

i did unless they need to be different for just dual pass vs dual pass and option b lol

 

rice, post pics after u fix this hose routing issue

 

U only swap the laminovas when u install the dual pass.

W/o the dual pass, opt b. can be run with no further modifications.

 

I know

and yesh i will post pics of what i did the other night... just gotta take em... even though i'm fairly confident with what i did wrong and what needs to be changed/improved. soon enough... my iat2's will be lower than my iat1's... mark my words

 

I figured u knew. I quoted your post just to make it clear for anyone else who thought you might need to mess with the laminovas.

 

Not trying to thread jack but while everyone is on the cooling subject, Does anyone know how easy it is to install a dual pass on a cx racing h/e? been thinking about the option b + dual pass but now you guys are talking about these problems/cores being flipped has me confused/nervous lol