I wound up pushing my hose through the area between the two sheets of metal on the bumper support. Like the piece that the bumper clips go into theres a cavity... hard to explain haha

 

Hey Riceburner, if you can get a pic of where it goes in and comes out that would be VERY helpful.

 

Here's mine...







Run it under the core support above the top of the radiator.

 

I would if my car wasnt at the shop but i can later!

The only issue with mine is how you need the resoviour to be the highest point in the system and the placement of the hose that i am talking about goes a little higher than that.

 

My temps are still well above 50 over ambient at any time and like 100 over on a pull.

 

Thanks but those pictures still dont show how it gets around the SC Pulley.
I'm just going to use a reducer and a smaller hose. No need for a 3/4" Hose for just a surge/overflow tank. Maybe if it was flow-through then ya, but not for just a surge/overflow.

 

Dude just look at the metalwork in front if the pulley, about at the top inside quarter of the headlight, behind the radiator tie. There is an opening that you can literally.squeeze the tubing through, and it comes out the other end close to behind the hood latch deal.

 

I told you what to do... re read my post with the photos.

 

subd

 

Follow the red hose

 

This...

or do what I said and run it under the core support and bring it back out like how rice has is ran.

The only problem with riceburners is the tank is no longer really the highest point in the cooling system as it should be.

 

I run all Cobalt hoses through the radiator tie bar ;I beleive Rice burner has it done correctly. The height of the hose relative to the surge tank means nothing; the tank level is still higher than the hose, and the hose doesn't bleed air. Running a smaller hose with steps is not a bad idea if you want to make it easier to fish the hose past the s/c pulley, but a pita to go through all that. I open up the radiator tie bar and spray some undercoating in the cavity before I push and pull the hose through. MY kits come with conduit hose protector; there is an air bag sensor with a sharp locating bolt on it that protrudes in the general area of the hose, so I want that protected.

I first ran Option B when we developed it back in 2004 during out GM racing program.. I did lose one hose on the s/c pulley which is why the Cobalt I route it as Riceburner suggests. I also supply an adel clamp for Redline kits. The Redline has a lot more space to the radiator tie bar than the Cobalt.

More important for the aftercooler system is maintenance of the laminova core seals. I have repaired 4 cars in this past month alone. Two had functioning option B , two were stock and the job takes a good three hours. I shave a little billing time on it by prepping spare inlet manifolds in advance.

The problem with the whole deal is the antifreeze makes a mess, the engine misfires on the coolant, and the pcv valve gets stuck, so the inlet manifold gets all gummed up.

Its not as bad as a Direct Injection ecotec, as the inlet valves are "washed" by the EFI spray. So half of the inlet port and more importantly the valve stems, are clean as can be.

I soak the manifold for a day or two in GM upper cylinder cleaner before pressure washing and hot tanking the manifold. I use brake clean on the laminova cores, and replace the seals with Viton fluoroelastemer o rings I sell for 3 dollars each or so, which compares favorabley to GM seals at 12 bux or so. There are eight of them. I also find some cores damaged. Thats a big one, its important to rotate the cores before pulling back on them, so you can break the grip tension of the o ring. I use a hose clamp to grip the cores. Laminova went out of business so good cores are going to eventually difficult to find. New inlet manifolds can be had for around 400 dollars, and its important to replace both the pcv valve and the map sensor; the map sensor seal goes very hard and you could replace the O ring alone if you could find one. I havent tried, as I would rather put in a new sensor than have to pull it out later on when it fails.

all I got on this subject for now. Oh are kits are 150 Cobalt and Redline specific with brackets, hardware, Y connectors efi clamps restrictor installed and I now make dual pass end plates, I got sick of fixing aftermarket ones, 85.00 with new seals. Thats 250 shipped for complete option B and dual pass endplate with arguably the most complete kit in the business. 275 with laminova corre seals included.

 

Redline tank bracket now powdercoated black


Cobalt: I just fixed the laminova core seals on this car shown, at almost 300,000 km. The textured black M62 is still perfect.
The gas line was rusted through just before the kick up past the exhaust; I have done three of those the past two weeks.
This is another Cobalt, long term use of meth' five years and the rotor coating is about all gone. Not sure its a deal breaker, but something to think about. Post bower meth injection you dont get as good atomisation and distribution imho.
I also run our PCV upgrade to keep the intake nice a clean. Originally developed for the LNF which needs a lot of help, this upgrade works well

 

Wow, so i actually did something right for once? thanks john.

 

You did lol. BTW I found a phenolic spacer mismade the other day. I hate the things. It allowed the PCV valve to move out of the inlet manifold which made the pcv system cranky, got oil everywhere. etc.

 

redline kit

 

Cobalt kit. Brackets are different; no adel clamp required.

 

nice stuff, i bet your hoses don't kink either!

 

Its gates radiator hose rice.... same stuff I use. Nothing special really other than its better than the crappy see through tubing ZZP provides with their opt b kit.

 

The restrictor line is actually efi hose not radiator style hose. I buy Gates or Goodyear.

 

Funny that you mention this. I was planning on fixing the leak in my line this weekend. It has been leaking for a while but the weather has finally warmed up enough that I am willing to work on my back outside. I haven't gotten under the car yet but was under the impression the problem would likely be the plastic line coming from the fuel pump. I looked around last week to see if anyone had the plastic fuel line repair kit available for rental but could find anyone otherwise i would have done it last weekend.
I didn't know there were steel lines on these vehicles or I would have gone looking for a rusted line first.

 

Riceburner I noticed you said temps are still high. I saw that you have the orifice facing the wrong way. Small end should face the heat exchanger. I'd personally find a way to make the tank higher or your main feed hose lower. Those have always been my issues when fixing opt b for several other people.

 

Thanks dude ill look into that, turns out my temps were high because my laminovas were busted lmao. live.and learn, live and learn