2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

OPTION B - did i do this wrong? pics included

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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 03:45 PM
  #176  
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should be yea
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #177  
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ok so maybe i need to re route my bleeder line, it is beheid the headlight housing, maybe there is a high spot not letting the liquid escape
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by riceburner
that needs to be changed then... after all without the filler neck i dont think theres any other good way to know that the pump is working other than seeing fluid move through that line. also u know ur pump is working by turning the key on and hearing the buzz of the pump
You dont need clear hose....

Just place your hand around the house coming out of the pump, you will feel the coolant flowing if the everything is ok.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 10:21 PM
  #179  
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From: Port Perry
^^^ this.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 11:53 PM
  #180  
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true, true...

hey yellow, what i did to make that bleeder line run smooth was cut a section out of that big ass headlight braket. like if you are facing front of the car, the right side of the top portion of the bracket is gone now (not the bolt part but under that) this way the line dont kink at all and still runs smoothly. ALSO (added bonus alert) the bracket comes out and goes back in so much easier now! i ******* hate taking out our headlights and those brackets!
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 09:24 AM
  #181  
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ok so i think the bleeder line is the issue here.

I pushed my "t" down a little more so everything is going downhill from the opt b tank.

I can see air bubbles coming up threw the fill hose, as if it is bleeding air out of the system that way. it took a lot more coolant, which is good.

but i have the opt b kit from ottp so i have the white cylindrical .040 orifice, and im not getting any fluid out of my bleeder line ... any ideas how to get a new orifice ?

ohh an i know my pump is working cuz i can see the liquid swirling at the entrance of the t fitting (cuz my hose is clear)


--- My plan tonight is to take the bleeder barb off and see if coolant comes out of the bleeder hole on the stock h.e, im going to check out my barb and make sure its not clogged or anything. ... any other advise would be great.

Last edited by yellowsupercharged06; Apr 9, 2013 at 10:50 AM.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #182  
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From: Port Perry
I am not sure where the fluid deal would come from. Once the thing has stabilized the purpose of the orifice is to expel air not fluid.... Few folks make the .040(its too difficult to find the drill bit for the orifice) most do 1/16th. Funny that this has come up. I have seen this before on some kits.

Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Apr 9, 2013 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:21 PM
  #183  
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everyone is telling me that the bleed line is supposed to have fluid running out of it after the system has bled fully ...

is this true ?

how do i know if its bleeding correctly ?
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:41 PM
  #184  
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From: Port Perry
The purpose of the orifice is to prevent the coolant and allow the air to escape to the reservoir. Not sure if this is well understood. so no.

also, air is ENTRAINED in the coolant by the pump etc, so constant bleeding is needed to make the system work efficiently. I misspoke and said ENTRAPPED in an earlier post.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:44 PM
  #185  
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I should probably get my hands on this orifice fitting Can't find one though and my used kit didn't come with one
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #186  
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thats what i thought lol, thanks for clearing that up.

so now do u know why air bubbles are coming from the t up into the tank ?
I figured its because air is in the system and the t is the high point from the end plate back down to the stock h.e so the air must go up the tube to the tank(highest point)

powell let me know if that makes sense ?
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:51 PM
  #187  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by 574
I should probably get my hands on this orifice fitting Can't find one though and my used kit didn't come with one
email me i make and send you as a gift 1/4 inch
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 12:52 PM
  #188  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by yellowsupercharged06
thats what i thought lol, thanks for clearing that up.

so now do u know why air bubbles are coming from the t up into the tank ?
I figured its because air is in the system and the t is the high point from the end plate back down to the stock h.e so the air must go up the tube to the tank(highest point)

powell let me know if that makes sense ?
I dont have clear hose to see and never have so cant say what happens in real life
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 01:05 PM
  #189  
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I had air coming up my hoses same as the other guy, what fixxed it was running my hoses per gm install guide.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #190  
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From: Port Perry
^^^^^makes sense
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Vander Nars
I had air coming up my hoses same as the other guy, what fixxed it was running my hoses per gm install guide.
which is ?

I dont have dual pass just saying.
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 06:46 PM
  #192  
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From: Port Perry
toss that front mount your problems will be over.
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #193  
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From: YAMOMS
Needs to be bumped.
Best thread on Option B.

Referred back to it before my install and my kit is working wonderfully.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 07:06 AM
  #194  
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Interesting thread. Learn something new all the time
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 07:14 AM
  #195  
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Make sure tank is highest

Riceburner looks like your hose goes up more then your tank

I had it like that and didn't work for me so I changed it and works way better
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:51 AM
  #196  
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I redid my setup

All I run is stock he in front and option b.

My system has never been better
With a 2.8
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 11:25 AM
  #197  
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Saw this when browsing for something else and thought the barbed y with three built-in clamps might be of interest to someone wanting a cleaner looking setup for their hoses on their option b setup. I haven't tried them so the regular lawyer type words saying if something screw's up then it's all your fault applies
They also have the regular ones if that's all you need.
Product Listing Barb-Wyes
How it looks together

And how it looks apart

Last edited by sLAsh; Aug 4, 2013 at 11:31 AM.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 12:06 PM
  #198  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Pleass
I redid my setup

All I run is stock he in front and option b.

My system has never been better
With a 2.8
Click. Lol
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 10:06 AM
  #199  
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Hey there everyone, Sorry to Necro a year and a half old thread, but I have some questions. I just installed my Option B and routed the hoses last night. Got the SC back on. I have the ZZP Pheonallic Spacer. This moves my Intake and Supercharger forward. If it wasn't for my 2.9" Pulley, there would be no room. Is it feasable, to use a hose reducer to run a smaller hose around the SC Pulley? It's VERY closer. If that zip tie streaches or breaks, the SC Pulley is going to turn into a cutting wheel on that hose.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 10:23 AM
  #200  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by insylem
Hey there everyone, Sorry to Necro a year and a half old thread, but I have some questions. I just installed my Option B and routed the hoses last night. Got the SC back on. I have the ZZP Pheonallic Spacer. This moves my Intake and Supercharger forward. If it wasn't for my 2.9" Pulley, there would be no room. Is it feasable, to use a hose reducer to run a smaller hose around the SC Pulley? It's VERY closer. If that zip tie streaches or breaks, the SC Pulley is going to turn into a cutting wheel on that hose.
I'd ditch that spacer before I ever reduced hose size.

The spacer usually ends up causing a vac leak at the manifold, and doesnt do much at all for temps.
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