OPTION B - did i do this wrong? pics included
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
that needs to be changed then... after all without the filler neck i dont think theres any other good way to know that the pump is working other than seeing fluid move through that line. also u know ur pump is working by turning the key on and hearing the buzz of the pump
Just place your hand around the house coming out of the pump, you will feel the coolant flowing if the everything is ok.
Thread Starter
Joined: 05-18-11
Posts: 39,564
Likes: 87
From: West Chicago, IL
true, true...
hey yellow, what i did to make that bleeder line run smooth was cut a section out of that big ass headlight braket. like if you are facing front of the car, the right side of the top portion of the bracket is gone now (not the bolt part but under that) this way the line dont kink at all and still runs smoothly. ALSO (added bonus alert) the bracket comes out and goes back in so much easier now!
i ******* hate taking out our headlights and those brackets!
hey yellow, what i did to make that bleeder line run smooth was cut a section out of that big ass headlight braket. like if you are facing front of the car, the right side of the top portion of the bracket is gone now (not the bolt part but under that) this way the line dont kink at all and still runs smoothly. ALSO (added bonus alert) the bracket comes out and goes back in so much easier now!
ok so i think the bleeder line is the issue here.
I pushed my "t" down a little more so everything is going downhill from the opt b tank.
I can see air bubbles coming up threw the fill hose, as if it is bleeding air out of the system that way. it took a lot more coolant, which is good.
but i have the opt b kit from ottp so i have the white cylindrical .040 orifice, and im not getting any fluid out of my bleeder line ... any ideas how to get a new orifice ?
ohh an i know my pump is working cuz i can see the liquid swirling at the entrance of the t fitting (cuz my hose is clear)
--- My plan tonight is to take the bleeder barb off and see if coolant comes out of the bleeder hole on the stock h.e, im going to check out my barb and make sure its not clogged or anything. ... any other advise would be great.
I pushed my "t" down a little more so everything is going downhill from the opt b tank.
I can see air bubbles coming up threw the fill hose, as if it is bleeding air out of the system that way. it took a lot more coolant, which is good.
but i have the opt b kit from ottp so i have the white cylindrical .040 orifice, and im not getting any fluid out of my bleeder line ... any ideas how to get a new orifice ?
ohh an i know my pump is working cuz i can see the liquid swirling at the entrance of the t fitting (cuz my hose is clear)
--- My plan tonight is to take the bleeder barb off and see if coolant comes out of the bleeder hole on the stock h.e, im going to check out my barb and make sure its not clogged or anything. ... any other advise would be great.
Last edited by yellowsupercharged06; Apr 9, 2013 at 10:50 AM.
I am not sure where the fluid deal would come from. Once the thing has stabilized the purpose of the orifice is to expel air not fluid.... Few folks make the .040(its too difficult to find the drill bit for the orifice) most do 1/16th. Funny that this has come up. I have seen this before on some kits.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Apr 9, 2013 at 11:21 AM.
everyone is telling me that the bleed line is supposed to have fluid running out of it after the system has bled fully ...
is this true ?
how do i know if its bleeding correctly ?
is this true ?
how do i know if its bleeding correctly ?
The purpose of the orifice is to prevent the coolant and allow the air to escape to the reservoir. Not sure if this is well understood. so no.
also, air is ENTRAINED in the coolant by the pump etc, so constant bleeding is needed to make the system work efficiently. I misspoke and said ENTRAPPED in an earlier post.
also, air is ENTRAINED in the coolant by the pump etc, so constant bleeding is needed to make the system work efficiently. I misspoke and said ENTRAPPED in an earlier post.
thats what i thought lol, thanks for clearing that up.
so now do u know why air bubbles are coming from the t up into the tank ?
I figured its because air is in the system and the t is the high point from the end plate back down to the stock h.e so the air must go up the tube to the tank(highest point)
powell let me know if that makes sense ?
so now do u know why air bubbles are coming from the t up into the tank ?
I figured its because air is in the system and the t is the high point from the end plate back down to the stock h.e so the air must go up the tube to the tank(highest point)
powell let me know if that makes sense ?
thats what i thought lol, thanks for clearing that up.
so now do u know why air bubbles are coming from the t up into the tank ?
I figured its because air is in the system and the t is the high point from the end plate back down to the stock h.e so the air must go up the tube to the tank(highest point)
powell let me know if that makes sense ?
so now do u know why air bubbles are coming from the t up into the tank ?
I figured its because air is in the system and the t is the high point from the end plate back down to the stock h.e so the air must go up the tube to the tank(highest point)
powell let me know if that makes sense ?
Saw this when browsing for something else and thought the barbed y with three built-in clamps might be of interest to someone wanting a cleaner looking setup for their hoses on their option b setup. I haven't tried them so the regular lawyer type words saying if something screw's up then it's all your fault applies 
They also have the regular ones if that's all you need.
Product Listing Barb-Wyes
How it looks together

And how it looks apart
They also have the regular ones if that's all you need.
Product Listing Barb-Wyes
How it looks together

And how it looks apart
Last edited by sLAsh; Aug 4, 2013 at 11:31 AM.
Hey there everyone, Sorry to Necro a year and a half old thread, but I have some questions. I just installed my Option B and routed the hoses last night. Got the SC back on. I have the ZZP Pheonallic Spacer. This moves my Intake and Supercharger forward. If it wasn't for my 2.9" Pulley, there would be no room. Is it feasable, to use a hose reducer to run a smaller hose around the SC Pulley? It's VERY closer. If that zip tie streaches or breaks, the SC Pulley is going to turn into a cutting wheel on that hose.
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Hey there everyone, Sorry to Necro a year and a half old thread, but I have some questions. I just installed my Option B and routed the hoses last night. Got the SC back on. I have the ZZP Pheonallic Spacer. This moves my Intake and Supercharger forward. If it wasn't for my 2.9" Pulley, there would be no room. Is it feasable, to use a hose reducer to run a smaller hose around the SC Pulley? It's VERY closer. If that zip tie streaches or breaks, the SC Pulley is going to turn into a cutting wheel on that hose.
The spacer usually ends up causing a vac leak at the manifold, and doesnt do much at all for temps.



