2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Possible Intercooler Pump Upgrade (Pump Information)

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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 05:53 PM
  #51  
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A faster pump is a useless endeavor(period)

The faster the flow the less time in the heat exchanger and the hotter the water will be reentering the laminovas.

You have one of two ways of increasing the cooling effect.

1) add a second core for passing the water through or a larger core. The cooler the water entering the laminovas the cooler they will stay.

2. split the laminovas up and install a second pump and heat exchanger. This will in effect force cooler liquid quicker, actually 2X quicker since the flow will come from two separate sources.

The second one is not impossible to do either. And I have actually seen a pump with one electric motor attached to two pump units end to end.

If you can add a second exchanger then you can add a second pump or manufacture a "piggy back" pump and split the laminovas up.


If you are serious about cooling a supercharger then those are the ways to go and the second has been done and is a far better performer.
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Twoozofjuice
I wanna know how a 2.4 pulley m62 survived that many years ^
Originally Posted by BlackSSstg2
Not driven much?

The Problem with the CM30, while it is a better built pump, is that its head pressure is less than OEM even though it does flow more GPM unrestricted. Mercedes Benz guys were using that as the go to option for the 002 replacement until more date came out about how it flowed restricted. Then the 010 was released and it is the go to pump for them all.
Cobalt is his daily driver. Car was on gas on the 2.5 for 6 years. 1.5 years ago he went E85 and the couple months ago went on the 2.4. Quick little car and does well againest our TVS car. He's def around 300 whp. Basically we keep an eye on things and know how to care for the car. Its driven hard still, but the so called heat people talk about from the pulley isn't an issue. His h/e system works great. We're not doing back to back to back pulls.

He knew that buying the pump but wanted something that lasts longer then the Bosch. So far it's been great. As for the flow, it's not an issue. He has almost the same temps iat2 as my TVS car. In the winter I'd top out at 130 iat2, his M62 would top at 140 iat2. Still good temps.
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 06:29 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by reddragon72
A faster pump is a useless endeavor(period)

The faster the flow the less time in the heat exchanger and the hotter the water will be reentering the laminovas.

You have one of two ways of increasing the cooling effect.

1) add a second core for passing the water through or a larger core. The cooler the water entering the laminovas the cooler they will stay.

2. split the laminovas up and install a second pump and heat exchanger. This will in effect force cooler liquid quicker, actually 2X quicker since the flow will come from two separate sources.

The second one is not impossible to do either. And I have actually seen a pump with one electric motor attached to two pump units end to end.

If you can add a second exchanger then you can add a second pump or manufacture a "piggy back" pump and split the laminovas up.


If you are serious about cooling a supercharger then those are the ways to go and the second has been done and is a far better performer.


Why you gotta be the motha ****** fun police?
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Old Aug 28, 2014 | 06:31 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by reddragon72
A faster pump is a useless endeavor(period)

The faster the flow the less time in the heat exchanger and the hotter the water will be reentering the laminovas.

You have one of two ways of increasing the cooling effect.

1) add a second core for passing the water through or a larger core. The cooler the water entering the laminovas the cooler they will stay.

2. split the laminovas up and install a second pump and heat exchanger. This will in effect force cooler liquid quicker, actually 2X quicker since the flow will come from two separate sources.

The second one is not impossible to do either. And I have actually seen a pump with one electric motor attached to two pump units end to end.

If you can add a second exchanger then you can add a second pump or manufacture a "piggy back" pump and split the laminovas up.


If you are serious about cooling a supercharger then those are the ways to go and the second has been done and is a far better performer.
You have any proof that any of that has a positive effect or actually works?
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 08:27 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by reddragon72
A faster pump is a useless endeavor(period)

The faster the flow the less time in the heat exchanger and the hotter the water will be reentering the laminovas.

You have one of two ways of increasing the cooling effect.

1) add a second core for passing the water through or a larger core. The cooler the water entering the laminovas the cooler they will stay.

2. split the laminovas up and install a second pump and heat exchanger. This will in effect force cooler liquid quicker, actually 2X quicker since the flow will come from two separate sources.

The second one is not impossible to do either. And I have actually seen a pump with one electric motor attached to two pump units end to end.

If you can add a second exchanger then you can add a second pump or manufacture a "piggy back" pump and split the laminovas up.


If you are serious about cooling a supercharger then those are the ways to go and the second has been done and is a far better performer.

How sure are we the the OEM pump is moving coolant at the most efficient speed for the most beneficial cooling though?
GM did not have this pump designed for the cooling system in this car so we are only really left to assume they designed the cooling system for the pump they used. I am not saying you are wrong, it is a great point honestly and one I did not originally think of.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 08:42 AM
  #56  
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Tech info on the stock LSJ intercooler pump | ZZP News
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackSSstg2
How sure are we the the OEM pump is moving coolant at the most efficient speed for the most beneficial cooling though?
GM did not have this pump designed for the cooling system in this car so we are only really left to assume they designed the cooling system for the pump they used. I am not saying you are wrong, it is a great point honestly and one I did not originally think of.

I doubt gm designed a pump around our system or the system around a pump
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 08:46 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
I doubt gm designed a pump around our system or the system around a pump
Exactly. Especially because the pump we use predates the car it is in.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 08:48 AM
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I came across this article when I was searching. It was also written before the pump that I am asking and talking about was available.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 09:01 AM
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if you want better iat2 fix why they get high
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
if you want better iat2 fix why they get high
Best I see is 40 over outside air temps cruising.
I have fresh coolant, option B, restrictor installed, FMHE.
Pump is working now (had some debris in it like you said).

The way the car sits on a 2.9 with 60's it couldn't make it down the 1/4 because it will hit boost/timing cut due to heat. Car cuts timing and boost at 165 degree IAT2.

by mid third car (from a dig) the car hits that temp.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 09:36 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by BlackSSstg2
Best I see is 40 over outside air temps cruising.
I have fresh coolant, option B, restrictor installed, FMHE.
Pump is working now (had some debris in it like you said).

The way the car sits on a 2.9 with 60's it couldn't make it down the 1/4 because it will hit boost/timing cut due to heat. Car cuts timing and boost at 165 degree IAT2.

by mid third car (from a dig) the car hits that temp.
Jeez man, what kind of fuel? Meth?
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 09:49 AM
  #63  
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you still have air in the system or the pump could be starting to **** out even with the option b it took mine a little while to bleed another thing is if you setup the option b like how zzp has said to do its supposed to be better and faster

Last edited by mrbelvedere; Aug 29, 2014 at 10:31 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:09 AM
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Your temps are way to high. I cruise an average of 10 over ambient and from a 2-4th gear pull max at 130.

Redo your set up
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #65  
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Out of curiosity, has anyone used a vacuum bleeder to try to remove all the air? Or is it a general waste of time with the option b?
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:33 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by SSfamilywagon
Your temps are way to high. I cruise an average of 10 over ambient and from a 2-4th gear pull max at 130.

Redo your set up
ambient is cool but on your pulls your on a tvs and a large that makes a huge difference pulley that was around I was on a 2.9

Originally Posted by ECaulk
Out of curiosity, has anyone used a vacuum bleeder to try to remove all the air? Or is it a general waste of time with the option b?
it should work how well who knows from what I have read the best place to run your option b line is directly from the top core to the tank as that's where most or all of the air gets trapped in the manifold
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
you still have air in the system or the pump could be starting to **** out even with the option b it took mine a little while to bleed another thing is if you setup the option b like how zzp has said to do its supposed to be better and faster
How does ZZP say?

Originally Posted by SSfamilywagon
Your temps are way to high. I cruise an average of 10 over ambient and from a 2-4th gear pull max at 130.

Redo your set up
To what specs?

Last edited by blueLNFftw; Aug 29, 2014 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:38 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by BlackSSstg2
How does ZZP say?



To what specs?
zzp said to drill and tap the manifold at the top core(I have the instructions somewhere)and run the bleed line from there to the tank because most or all the air gets trapped right there in the top lam core
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
zzp said to drill and tap the manifold at the top core(I have the instructions somewhere)and run the bleed line from there to the tank because most or all the air gets trapped right there in the top lam core
Hmmmm.
I did not come across anything saying this. I am interested.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:49 AM
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Me too and that makes perfect sense
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:51 AM
  #71  
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ill see if I can find them
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 10:53 AM
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Sweet.
Thank you.

You may be right about the pump in mine as well; it has been like that a while it seems.
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 11:00 AM
  #73  
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where to drill and tap you will need a 90deg 1/8th in npt fitting

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lam core orientation for correct airflow around the cores

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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 11:00 AM
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i also think a oil recirculation system would help the bearing as well
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Old Aug 29, 2014 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by JapEatr
i also think a oil recirculation system would help the bearing as well
200 deg oil vs H.E. temp ill take the H.E. setup that steg has they can mod a tvs snout also and another thing to look at is engine op temp
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