he is trying this new pump you never know

 

Prove to me that the OEM pump on the SS is already the most efficient flow and I will believe you

 

There is such a simple solution right there in front of everyones face and no one seems to be able to catch it.......

 

Make sure everything works right and is routed correct?

I still think this pump upgrade would be necessary for those with bigger/more heat exchangers since theres more coolant to move now

 

Then why don't you go ahead and spell it out?
And if it is "make sure everything is routed right and the pump works" then take it somewhere else. I am tired of hearing that line because obviously I did all of that; I am not a complete moron when it comes to cars. Also, if anyone wants to come check it out, drive me car, and see first hand the temps they can whenever they would like.

 

Also, I was looking over some install diagrams and realized that I have my pump installed between my secondary heat exchanger and the endplate; could this be an issue?

Mine goes pump > endplate inlet (bottom port) > endplate outlet (top port: option B is "T" in immediately after the endplate outlet) > stock HE > FMHE > back to the pump

 

Marked for later

 

Why does everyone seem to think that stacking heat exchangers inbetween your ac condenser and your radiator is beneficial to the intercooling system. lol For every piece you put in front of another you wind up making the one behind it that much hotter. You would probably be better off running one griffin heat exchanger on the stock pump. But thats just me.

 

Ding ding ding... That and improvements to the manifold could be had.

 

a few Q's. dual pass? if so did you swap the cores around? and secondary exhanger by whom?

That is why I said to for the output from the intake cooling cores should go into the rear exhanger first then route to the most front exhanger. This way the hottest water is cooled behind the other exhangers first and dropping the most heat.

I would also like to point out that the Griffin actually holds more water. Which has been my point all along.

And for those that missed it bigger pumps have already been tested. The "restrictive" nature of the Laminova cores dictates the water flow. An article was linked a few pages back where ZZP or OTTP tried several pumps and found that the stock Bosch pump seems to be the best suited. They even stated that once the pump was put into the system the water flow was decreased in half; again due to the restrictiveness of the Laminova cores.

The only way to cool better is to have more fluid in the system so it can cool down and not succumb to a stagnant temp. Pumping the water faster will not allow the water to cool down as it passes through the exhanger and will not allow it to "soak" up the heat from the cores.

I just wish people could understand that. you need cooler water before faster water or the whole thing becomes stagnant and useless.

 

ZZP didn't test this pump because it wasn't being made at the time. The other high flow pumps they tests had a lower head pressure than this one and all of them ended up flowing LESS than the stock one. This one flows more because it has a higher head pressure. Stock flows 4.5 restricted and this one flows 5.5gpm.
I repeat, the other options tested flowed less under restriction.

A secondary exchanger holds more water.

No, I do not have a dual pass.

Hottest fluid hits the OEM first and the FMHE second, then hits the pump and then back into the laminovas.

 

Since you have two cores, which is what I have been saying, a faster pump, if it does pump faster, may help since you have more cooling surface and more water.

That setup is fine. Ensure that the pump is indeed wired correctly or it will not pump, which I am sure you have.

Also note the pump should have remained hooked up to the laminovas as it came from the factory. The pump should be drawing the hot water out(I think).

 

I think you are right on the drawing the hot water out; I may have switched it around when I did my install. Hmmmm.

 

Turbo swap, naturally.

 

The pump pulls the water in from the end and spits it out the side if I remember rightly.

Also remember that the laminovas can flow both ways but one way is "better" than the other. I believe it should flow into the closed end and out the open.

 

That part is correct with your assumption. My pump is in correctly, I just have hoses routed that it is pushing the fluid into the bottom port of the endplate after is has passed all of the exchangers.

 

I have talked to Richard at lamiflow a few times over the years and the one thing he has always said was that the manifold on our cars was excellent and that gm spent a ton of money having It designed. he has also said that the pump was an excellent choice for our setup. he said the main problem was we never got enough radiator for the system or capacity. the problem is the water gets hot and keeps getting hot from lack of volume and radiator. he also noted that a bigger pump would not pull more btu out of the air this is the setup he has recommended to me

A 2 to 5 gallon cell in the front pass floor board or trunk and a quality heat exchanger bigger then the griffen
and use another stock pump to push the water to the pump up front if using a aux tank

the hot water will come out of the manifold to the heat exchanger out of the heat exchanger to the tank out of the tank to the manifold

capacity is what will help with temps and ive been saying this for years now can you mod the blower to help cool the blower yup you sure can stegmier can mod the snout to reduce over all blower temps you can also port the lam core opening in the manifold to help reduce heat from the stacking of air

 

This wouldnt be a bad time or thread for someone to clarify the exact routing a dual pass setup needs to follow. Lol. Wouldnt hurt for me to double check my routing because im tired of seeing 50°+ above ambient iat2s while cruising

 

 

Adam your better than this

 

You're

 

Helping out with the pic.



Why not use a standard heat exchanger(radiator)? Pull a nice one from the junk yard clean it up and you'll have a much larger surface area.

Also I don't see why we cannot create a reservoir under the hood to the left of the engine. If you moves a few things around then you could squeeze a couple gallon one in there.

OR you could use the windshield washer container! swap that one and the option B tanks around lol.

 

The reason the Option B tank is where it is is because it has to be mounted high in the system.

 

I would rather have the tank in the trunk away from radiant engine temps

 

Mount it inside the passenger fender.

Placing it in the trunk wont help much since the path to get up the front will be close to the hot pavement and will run by the engine anyways. Also you are taking a chance at the hose being hit by road debris especially since they have to be a wider tube.

Remember when adding more fluid in the system you are producing more "product weight" to push around and more surface force for the liquid to travel.

I think keeping it closer to the rest of the system would have more benefits.

Side note real quick....
Also found out from someone who knows their stuff that the original fan temp was set to 220 degrees for the SC version is due to the hot air being blown around when setting in traffic for a few min. That hot air is now being sucked into the intake.

He said to tell your tuner to set it to 210 if 220 bothers you. He said the engine temp will recover quickly and not be an issue but once the intake, especially the SC, heats up it's all over and the heat soaking will come sooner.

This is not an issue for the Turbo since the fan will inherently cool the air as it flows through the air intake system.

Take that with a grain of salt but I think he is correct. There is no cooling of the SC at all and if you take the 220 degree water in the radiator or even 197 and start blowing it around it will get sucked into the intake heating the SC up. I know the fan turns on with the AC but that is why stage three has the AC disabled. The SC is already turning faster and generating heat before it even starts to compress the air.

Lots of little things here and there to help but man am I really thinking about a second radiator(exchanger) and a reservoir.