know one said you had to run the hoses under the car but even if you did I don't think the road heat would really make that big of a difference as for the fans mine come on at 195 off at 185 and im going to switch to a 160 stat Lingenfelter 160 Degree Thermostat Cobalt HHR Solstice Sky G5 Saab 9 - Lingenfelter Performance the cooler engine temp will help a lot I see what you are saying about product weight but an extra stock pump will work to push the fluid up front

as for the blower it makes no heat what so ever at idle or no boost condition

 

Correct. The only heat it "creates" off boost it what travels from the snout to the rotors and passes to the air. Which isn't much at near zero load.

 

Hmmm.
I may go this route as well.
Are there any negatives to running it cooler?

 

A long time ago people claimed it would cause knock, but I've never seen it.

 

This is the common phrasing I keep reading about it.

 

This is somewhat correct after reading a bit more however it seems that if the blower is taken out and spun at 800RPM's it will generate heat. Again not much I agree but stacking heat doesn't help at all.

This is true of any engine. Engines have a certain level that they perform better at and are designed for that level of heat. I have a 94 Cherokee that I use off road a lot and the cooler the engine the better it performed but I was noticing knock and crappier oil a lot sooner and rocker arms would rattle sometimes so I swapped back to the standard 198 thermo. Things did get better so there is something to that.

 

Thought of this pump for $140? I can get for free from work

They use them for irigation pulroses and are outside of trucks so get exposed to rain
Product: Please see replacement item# 2682271. NorthStar 12 Volt On-Demand Diaphragm Pump — 2.2 GPM @ 70 PSI

 

the engine temp is usually setup more for emissions the hotter it runs the less fuel it needs to run on so the less the tail pipe emissions (you have the other thing you have to worry about on 195 plus engine temps is accelerated oil burn off which adds to tail pipe emissions that's why more cars come with oil coolers one helps heat up the other so the engine gets to op temp faster) so by putting a cooler stat in will change the fueling requirements if you cant make those changes through tuning then problems will arise but if you can you will can make more power

 

Heres a good link to a pump comparison chart. Electric Chargecooler Water Pump / Adding more water / Jabsco / Johnson

 

currently I believe the best option is a jabsco 50830-0012, which is what I have installed. Maybe a higher pressure pump may be beneficial due to the drop off around 8psi, but the comparative pressure @6.5psi = 2.6gpm with the bosch pump and ~8gpm with the Jabsco pump. the bosch is a low pressure pump as well as the jabsco and both don't perform well above 7psi.

 

So a little update on my car thanks to a raccoon.

I have a front mounted heat exchanger made by CX Racing. If you have this thing, ditch it because it is a piece of ****. The bars/tubes are too small and caused a huge choke point. Furthermore, the mounting of it actually restrict airflow to both the radiator and stock HE.

Thanks to a sick deal from Josh (Thanks again buddy) I replaced the busted up unit with a gen 4 OTTP FMHE. I replumbed my car to go:
"laminvoa out > pump in > pump out > stock HE > OTTP HE > Laminova in"

My temps are SOOO much better with a 15-20 degree above ambient cruise and I have yet to see temps over 122 even under the hardest back to back pulls. In 81 degree weather I pulled 117 degree IAT2 at 144mph cruising.

Now that I have a good healthy baseline with good parts, I will swap in the Benz pump and see if temps improve.

Also, I use distilled water with 1.5ounce of water wetter per quart. My system took about 3 quarts

 

I've been running the gen 4 for 4 years now. Great heat exchanger for sure.

Still looks new to.

 

The actual plates the flow the fluid to cool it are about twice the size as the CX Racing one.
It also appears that both ZZP and OTTP give you the same heat changer; same supplier. I added the logo to mine though because racecar tho.

 

I've always heard it's the OTTP's Griffin that's the best

 

 

I had a cx racing for 4 years. Once the bolts came loose and as driving it was draging on concrete. Pulled over at a Burger King's parking lot and the heat exchanger was still fine and held. It was the best heat exchanger I have ever had and that is comparing it to ZZP.

 

I can say that I measured them out and it is insufficient and a huge choke point. My temps dropped well over 30 degrees cruising and under load by ditching it.

 

It's not ottp's griffin. It's just the griffin. They only sell it. They didnt do any sort of design changes to it.

and yes that is the best HE for these cars out there.

 

not gunna lie that looks mint

 

just so i'm sure i got it right, the IN side of the pump is the upwards facing pipe correct? and the OUT of the laminovas is the center pipe that goes down into the top of the pump?

 

But where else can you get it then besides OTTP? I just assumed OTTP had it made for them, but you know what assuming does...

 

Nope. The part of the pump that looks like a compressor housing of the turbo is the out. I cut the 90 degree out of the stock tubing, turned the pump some in the bracket and feed that out into the stock HE. the other port of the pump, the IN, is attached to the top port of the laminova as well as the option B tee.
Reason and logic: so the pump "sucks" the coolant out of the cores and the option B.

Thanks.
Sorry for the **** snapchat screenshots.

 

You are welcome! You actually have a Gen 5 unit though lol. Only difference is that the Gen 5 doesn't have the drain anymore. People didn't like it.

The aren't the same unit actually. ZZP makes theirs in house from radiator cores. I don't make ours here I designed it and have it produced though.
The numbers back up that info.
Looks killer
Actually it is our design and it's different than the one GM racing used. Ours has a thicker core than they used and because of this the brackets had to be moved slightly.

 

Thanks for clearing that up Josh

 

wait, what? so the IN on the pump is the side facing the passenger side of the car? and the out goes into the h/e?