2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

The quest for 600whp

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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #551  
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Originally Posted by 574
Ehhhh pretty sure my rear main seal is leaking... only 16k miles on it.. not sure if I installed it wrong or what
Nooooo!!!!
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 09:24 AM
  #552  
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
have you done a leak down
No...
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 10:32 AM
  #553  
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do one
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 10:41 AM
  #554  
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Don't put the fear of god in the poor lad lol. Can't see the motor being toast after 1600 miles
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 10:48 AM
  #555  
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Why would the drip drip mean it's toast? Is been parked since Nov and there's a puddle the sizeof a 3x5 note card
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 11:32 AM
  #556  
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a seal leaks from being stretched or lack of lubrication worn main bearings just setting there it should not leak

Last edited by mrbelvedere; Feb 26, 2014 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #557  
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Rear main shouldn't be leaking from lack of lubrication unless he installed it dry and it got torn right away. I'd bet it's not installed flush or something stupid like that. Either way, a rear main leak will never get much worse than a couple drops at a time, there's just no pressure behind it to force out a lot of oil.
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 06:50 PM
  #558  
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now joe im just gonna call bs on that it wont get worse if the seal is leaking it will get worse if it is leaking from lack of lubrication on install it will get worse if its leaking from excessive crank case pressure it will get worse if the main bearings have worn and the crank is wearing on the seal it will get worse if the seal was installed crooked it will get worse

if you look close you can see the top ring

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rear main out of same engine
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 07:20 PM
  #559  
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Rear main shouldn't be leaking from lack of lubrication unless he installed it dry and it got torn right away. I'd bet it's not installed flush or something stupid like that. Either way, a rear main leak will never get much worse than a couple drops at a time, there's just no pressure behind it to force out a lot of oil.
I don't remember if I even lubed the seal, I do remember seeing how easily it wiggled around and was worried about it being on correctly
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 07:26 PM
  #560  
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No lube no bueno. John lays that lube on thick, real thick when he does em.
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 07:27 PM
  #561  
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Ah dammit. The one thing I remember him telling me about the seal is, to change it with the crank in the car requires a special tool
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 07:29 PM
  #562  
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Hmm don't know. Have to let him chime in on that one. I remember him mentioning before that you couldn't do it in the car.
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 07:31 PM
  #563  
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Dammit. I should line up a weekend with a machine shop ready, take the crank out have the key extended, put a new seal in and put it back together. I really don't feel like doing that but it seems it has to be done
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 07:39 PM
  #564  
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I think you just wanted to say that
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 08:53 PM
  #565  
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there is a j tool for remove and replacing the rear main seal with the engine still together and in the car you just need to pull trans
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 08:27 AM
  #566  
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I'll look into that oil situation further this weekend. As for the ATI. .....I have been putting much thought into it and have decided to hold off on putting it on until I can get my keyway extended
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 08:42 AM
  #567  
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you never go in dry! might as well pull it and have the ati and the seal done
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 12:12 PM
  #568  
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Pull trans and clutch/flywheel, swap out rear main, clean up mess, put trans back in, enjoy. I've done it on B series plenty of times Yes I know these are not hondas.
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 01:11 PM
  #569  
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So if I understand correctly, if I installed with not enough lube it could have heated and stretched?
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 02:46 PM
  #570  
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not heated and stretched Ive seen them get stretched on install or installed crooked
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 02:51 PM
  #571  
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Originally Posted by mrbelvedere
not heated and stretched Ive seen them get stretched on install or installed crooked
Would J tool only be used on removal? Then lube the new one and pop it in like a **** star?
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 02:51 PM
  #572  
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No special tool needed to replace the seal when the engines out though right? glad i'm reading this since i'm gonna be installing my new seal on saturday. just use lots of assembly lube?
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 02:58 PM
  #573  
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No, the j tool also is for install. Without it the seal wont go in properly and can cause the pressure to just blow it back out.
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 03:09 PM
  #574  
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faak. what is this j tool where do i get i -_-

snags the whole way in this build i swear to god lol
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 03:14 PM
  #575  
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Originally Posted by riceburner
faak. what is this j tool where do i get i -_-

snags the whole way in this build i swear to god lol
Your crack is out your good
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