Good deal will do!!!

 

new flywheel just came in and it fits perfect. looks like it comes with different bolts too, so i'm guessing mine was just an issue from a first run part since i ordered the clutch immediately after they were released.

anyways car should be back up and running by monday

 

act kit and new trans are in, and FTW on ACT's system

 

Did you get that elbow taken care of yet, and go front mount?

 

it's always had a fmic, but haven't done anything with the elbow. in the process of getting married and right now between full time school, full time work and wedding plans, there's not much time to jack around with any optional projects.

 

may have popped the headgasket tonight. was running a supercharged cobra with a pulley intake and exhaust and actually took him, but we were in it wide open until about 155-160 or so and when i got back the low coolant light popped on (it could've been on the verge of being low anyways, i forgot we drained some out the other cay cause it was too full) and the temps are sporadically jumping around now...

gonna take a closer look tomorrow morning, will be nice if it's just the low fluid, but i don't have too high of hopes after that long ass run lol

if it's blown, at least i ******* won

 

Yeah that and you can always build it bigger and badder when it's open. Do you have another car? lol

 

yeah got a couple and a motorcycle, but the bike is a race build so it's the least dependable thing in the world lol.

i'm sort of hopping it's not the head gasket for now cause the machinist doesn't even have the sleeves installed my other block yet, and with me getting married in october, i'd rather not spend an extra $3k at the moment finishing the engine.... but from the way it was acting, i think it's getting air into the water jackets and the pockets or air are causing the changes in the coolant temps

 

was having the same problem myself after a 26 psi run down the 1/4, just pulled the engine, i'll let you know what i find in a couple of weeks after i verify my stock engine runs fine.

 

that sucks if it is man, you have arp head studs, maybe its the cometic giving you trouble

 

luckily i think it's just a sticking t-stat. the coolant was all magically back into the overflow bottle this morning, there was no coolant in the oil, and it still holds all the boost and didn't seem by my butt dyno to have lost any power. just sitting still idling it would go from 180 to 170, then would hang out between 180-185 (where it usually stays), then cruising it would start creeping up to 190 and back to 180

after heating it up, i seen there was no coolant shooting into the overflow tank so i squeezed the radiator hose and it almost seemed to prime it, and after doing that the coolant level dropped, the low coolant light come on and the radiator hose got hard to squeeze and it stopped coming out again. i'm guessing the tstat is locking the water in when it sticks and that's what causes the issue.

i'm still on the stock motor now, my other one is still at the machinist getting sleeved, so it's a ways from being installed

 

ah, thats pretty decent for a stock motor, btw buying that mani fell through, they emailed me and clarified that the price was for the o2 housing after the turbo

 

hey man it was worth a try, i wish those sites had the oem part #'s on there so you could cross reference everything

 

contact morad autoparts on ebay, there always parting out cobalts, thats where i got mine.

 

ya that would really help, its confusing, thanks for the info tho

I did, they said no lnf manifold for you!*In soup **** voice*

 

that sux dude! gmparts direct has them, part# 12602397

 

frew, pm'd you with another solution on that, not sure if you have tried this before

 

lol that sucks.

and for the t-stat, they break and stick open usually (rubber seal goes) as for the low coolant, probably still have air in the system as it;s a bitch and a half to completely bleed out off the bat.
and it;s usually not the hg that goes, just the sleeves lol.

 

you scare me with all this truth.........

 

yeah that's what i was thinking on the sleeves, but there was no power loss and it's still holding boost/power so it's definitely not a sleeve. I wasn't sure if the tstat was a fail safe in these or not

as for bleeding the system, it seemed to be fine for 5 days after the trans install, but will look into bleeding the system. but i'm confused on how air in the system would make the coolant bottle go low and then stop coming back in trough the pipe on top of it. seems if it went low to fill an air pocket, it would just stay low

 

348 bucks dude!!! gtfoh

 

eh the stock sleeves will take quite a beating, it was only over 28 psi I had a problem. Pull before that I spiked 32+ so that's probably what started the process. Damn new electronic boost controllers.
remember my stock motor was still almost perfect at 440+whp when I pulled it out (@25 psi) and that was a pump gas, daily driven, 45k+ mile motor that was beaten since it's birth

 

no dude, thats msrp, there selling it for 280!
edit: nevermind, they want 60 bucks for shipping, thats outrageous, i only paid 50 for the turbo manifold and dp elbow all the way to germany. there a ripoff on shipping that part only weighs like 5 lbs at most!

 

it may have been air trapped in the upper hose... took off the hose and it was sucking air in as it was disconnected, poured coolant in it so it backed up and almost overflowed out of the overflow bottle. let it get up to temp and put the hose back on. after a while of running with the tstat open the coolant was flowing up to the top of the overflow then it's like it just burped and went down about an inch instantly.

there was fluid flowing back into the overflow and the upper radiator hose was still able to be squeezed by hand. so maybe there was just air right at the temperature sensor and that was also why the hose was hard to squeeze earlier. that would be great if that's all it is cause the tsta looks like it's a pita to change

 

the Tstat is a bitch to change! it takes a long time to get all the air out of the engine though, GL with that process hopefully thats all it needs.