Found out my SPEC 2+ uses the same pressure plate as the LuK unit in our stock cars so peddle pressure should be awesome and with the new LNF throw out bearing / slave cylinder, I should have good engagement. I also found out the LNF flywheel is 2 lbs lighter than my LSJ flywheel. Thats a lot less weight under the spinning forces, hopefully should show up on the dyno when I get the car together along with the removed weight of the NBS delete and lighter overall clutch package.

 

The aformentioned spec clutch is for sale. I am running a GMPP upgrade kit with an LNF flywheel. Its proven on several cars that are making more than 400.'

Update to my engine build. The block is done and is being shipped tomorrow if all goes well with packaging and protection. I have been through 3 broken blocks via UPS and this one cant afford to be destroyed.





The block bores are bored to the LSJ Diamond pistons so they are a snug fit and allows a little more cylinder wall as well as removes that loose piston that you get when you install Diamonds in a stock sleeved motor. These sleeves are Cromoly Spun by a very well known company specifically for our blocks. Its should be a good upgrade over stock but not quite as expensive or needed for modest 400-500 hp builds. Wanna know more ask mrbelvedere.

 

Mmmm perty

 

cant wait to see this thing rip...

 

Threads like these make me wish I went the turbo route.

 

so it begins (after work today of course)








what do you guys recommend I scrub the engine down with to get dirt grime etc off without rusting the sleeves.

 

dont put wd40 on them..
its water based..

i use blue plastic plugs i get from work...

 

Can't wait to see You put them all back together! Great Build!

 

Wish I had the expertise to do these types of things...love these threads!

 

wash the block down in hot hot hot water with simple green and dish washing liquid mixed together and use a scrub brush when you think its clean enough wipe the bores down with oil or wd40

 

wd40 really i was always told it was water based.

well mrb know best..lol

 

wd 40 is water dissapating

 

hmm like i said mrb knows best..

 

lol, just saw this, you know WD in WD40 means water displacement right. LOLZ sorry have to poke fun at you for that one. The stuff was developed during wwii to displace water for corrosion resistance in subs or something like that.

 

This is the second time at this, I have way more detail in my first turbo duck thread including gapping rings setting up pistons, etc... This is not that kind of build for me. I dont care if there is criticism over my methods, this is a budget build and there are many ways to do this. I had lots of help from Mrbelvedere. Thank you for your help sir. If you dont care for the methods, it may be too "because racecar", go hang out in the stance or GTFO thread. LOL! JK.. JK...

Balance shaft delete kit installed. I had to beat the crap out of the fittings to slide over the oil holes on the balance shaft races. I used assembly lube on there and there is no way these are coming out. I used a rubber mallet to stop from ruining the engine if I missed, or my hand for that matter. Used a 1 1/4" socket to beat it in, the marks on the balance shaft deltes are grease, they are not marked up as they appear. Tons of room to slide it in with the motor apart. Cant imagine doing this in the car, seems like a pain...












Installed oil squirters, bearings, grease, and crank to check for clearance on the squirters and crank.



Balance shaft removal kit installed. Cut balance shaft off, cleaned parts, reassembled parts, torqued balance shaft bearing to 37 ft lbs and deletes to block at 80 inch lbs. Red loctite all bolts.





Sweed SPEED!




I cleaned and weighted each component and every piston/rod were exactly 1.19 kilograms. The entire assembly is balanced.



Unfortunately I cannot afford new rods but I have found a thread where zzp broke their stock rods at 625 horsepower on the weaker LNF rods. LNF use 1019 SAE steel and LSJ use the stronger 5115 SAE steel. I feel that the cost and worry just isnt needed since I am going for 400-500 whp. Here is why.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...59/index6.html Post 137 "Anyway, these are my findings. At this point, I don't feel that the factory rods will be an issue for anyone running in the 450whp range with occasional 500whp hits."

To be continued...

 

Looks like you're having a good time!

 

Dude I am having a blast, I am taking hours to do so little, checking and double checking everything and cleaning like an OCD. I am OCD... HAHA

 

did you put the rear man seal in

 

yes but I ordered a new seal to give me peace of mind, going to pop out the old one and put the new one in when it gets here from CED

Also read that the old seal has a spring and I checked mine, it has a spring. Heard the new ones are teflon and no spring...

 

I had a good time building mine too, but all i did was diamond pistons, new rings, new bearings, head gasket, arp head studs and now I'm slowly getting my turbo stuff on now. Hoping for low 400s on a 252et

 

that is what I did this past summer. I am hoping for low 400's as well with a 20g turbo and e85. I have a ported head, balance shaft deletes, 82 lb valve springs, etc etc.. I want cams this year for 440 hp and maybe down the road get a gtx3076 for some 500 whp potential.

 

Yeah once I get bored of the 252 ill get a 256et. I don't really want to go over 450whp

 

good luck the seal should have been put in with the crank and there is a special tool set to remove and replace the seal with the crank in buy the build book

 

your so knowledgable about these motors it makes me sick, lol. Why are you always telling me things after I do them, HAHAHA. Hey I have changed quite a few main seals on different motors, I end up breaking the old seal and buggering it up getting it out but who cares, I am replacing it. The new seal taps in.

If I cant hammer it or duct tape it, well it just aint getting fixed.

 

you may break the new seal if you try and tap it in I thenk the tool kit presses the new seal in