Turbo Duck (LSJ) 2.o
I removed mine.
I dont recommend people who arent willing to do their own testing to outright remove it. I am doing some of my own testing on a highly modified valve cover with a vacuum oil catch can setup. More on that later.
Tom at CED overnighted my rear main seal. So build continues today, they also sent me this.
I dont recommend people who arent willing to do their own testing to outright remove it. I am doing some of my own testing on a highly modified valve cover with a vacuum oil catch can setup. More on that later.
Tom at CED overnighted my rear main seal. So build continues today, they also sent me this.
Last edited by c130aviator; Jan 18, 2013 at 02:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
GDS
Last edited by mrbelvedere; Jan 18, 2013 at 03:10 PM.
The one on the car now has no baffles, has fittings tapped for 3/8 npt, the tiny straw opening the stock uses is now completely closed up and smoothed over so its not an eye sore. I would say not many have gone that far into caring about VC pressure relief. Most just weld on a bung or two. I ran it like this for a very little while before I popped my motor (completely unrelated) so its untested for long term, but there was never oil in the catch. I will keep it this way for a while to see if there are major oil siphoning issues. If there is no oil in my catch, I am leaving it alone. I will post up the tube routing/vacuum that I am running later.
Its a work in progress, the one I have from you is going to get sand blasted and painted like the one on the engine now. It needs -AN fittings welded up when monies allow.
Its a work in progress, the one I have from you is going to get sand blasted and painted like the one on the engine now. It needs -AN fittings welded up when monies allow.
Last edited by c130aviator; Jan 18, 2013 at 06:13 PM.
Nice, tig welds are the prettiest. That is what I would have done when I get the fitting installed on the VC. I dont have a tig but they are the HEAT. Pun intended. I have a sand blaster at the base. Gonna be fun taping the thing off to keep sand out from under the baffles. They are a pain to remove and a pain to tac weld.
Installed my LNF TOB and Flywheel, GMPP clutch kit, bolt the tranny up to the motor before I put it in the cradle. It was just easier this way. Had no help but got it done before dark. Still lots to do.
They are new bolts, they come with blue loctite on them.
Stock balancer until I can afford cams and an ATI balancer. Then rev to 8000.
Oh and if at first it looks like the flywheel wont bolt up, spin it until the holes line up. They are just offset.
Stock balancer until I can afford cams and an ATI balancer. Then rev to 8000.
Oh and if at first it looks like the flywheel wont bolt up, spin it until the holes line up. They are just offset.
Senior Member
Joined: 02-01-11
Posts: 2,799
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From: modesto
yeah man, I used red loctite on every bolt that I couldnt get to easily, everything internal pretty much. I didnt use arp bolts because the bolt heads rub the clutch disc. Everything was torqued to spec. It takes time to do things right...
I have a SPEC 2+ clutch for sale cheap.
What is GDS?
I have a SPEC 2+ clutch for sale cheap.
What is GDS?
man you could have saved some cash and ground off a small amount on the stock cover on the turbo version. I dont know about the Supercharged version but the turbo is not hard to modify the stock cover.