I know you guys have heard my mention the build im currently going through right now. Well it all started when I had my car turboed by Alpine Developments and SMP. They were all great guys and did an excellent job, but it wasnt enough power =P

As you all know, i blew the intake manifold after i had my 3" exhaust installed. I found out that the hose clamp on the actuator side was removed. It allowed it to overboost and blew the manifold. Right after I had replaced the manifold I threw a rod. I wasnt running the car under boost at all for a couple days when it happened. The 20+ psi that was pushed through that engine weakened rod #3 and it collapsed on me at about 1am on a saturday night. I put a hole about 2inches in diameter into the front of the block.

Current situation: The new block I bought is sitting at SMP's garage waiting to be picked up on monday. Having some really bad luck with roommates lately has set me back a lot, or else it would have been done by now. When I get the block in wednesday, It will go straight to a local machine shop to be honed. I will be dropping some Diamond 9.5:1 forged pistons and Eagle rods. Yes, yes, i know 9.5:1 seems a little high, but with how efficient the C1 blower is, there shouldnt be any problems running 91/93 octane. I will be running a water-air intercooler setup with an ice box. Obviously the misc. **** like ARP Headstuds and Cometic Head gasket will be put in as well. The next step after we get this running will be a port/polish and cams.

Now on to tuning... I know a lot of people have seen me get really hyped up about the AEM Fuel/Ignition Controller. Yes, that piggyback looks to be awesome for most people boosting their cars. The problem im going to be running into on my setup is that i am going to be pushing just a bit more power then some would dare to go. What we are currently trying to develop is a 2nd fuel rail setup that will add fuel to each intake runner using 4 secondary injectors. The way it works it when the car is under boost, be it full or partial, the 2nd rail will add all the fuel needed. The great thing is that each cylinder will get the proper fuel it needs without worrying about fuel puddling or uneven distribution. The AEM FIC can do this very easily, and so can the SMT6. The downside of the AEM unit is that you cannot ADD timing. The nice part about it though is you can wire the secondary injectors up with the primary injectors and they will open at the same time as the primaries. Meaning no fuel sitting in the intake port waiting for the valve to open. The SMT6 on the other hand may not pulse exactly when the valve opens but there wont be any issues with puddling. Plus you have a lot more control over timing. I will be sending SMP the intake manifold he gave me and he is going to put some injector ports into it. As of right now we are trying to weight out each device and will know by mid next week which unit we will be going with. Honestly it looks more like the SMT6.

Now if all goes well, as it finally looks like it is, i should have some new videos up within a few weeks. I may run into a bit of a waiting game when the C1 gets ordered but thats about it. I really wanted to wait until i had it all finished, but its gonna be a couple weeks so i said hell with it...

 

Go with the 2.4 manifold
It has gains of 20hp on a STOCK N/A car

 

What?! 20 hp from just swapping the manifolds?

You have to mean on a car thats already heavily modified right?

 

meh... this is not an NA car. And no its not 20hp, it was 13hp on the dyno, but all it did was shift the powerband upwards, nothing special.

On another note, i may be using the 2.4 manifold if we cant get ahold of the saab manifold. At least it can handle a bit more boost then the 2.2's manifold.

 

i cant tell if your joking, or if the only words you read in hack's post were "20HP"
anyway...the AEM should be better than the SMT6...timing wont be an issue, as you wont be advancing timing at ALL when going into boost, and your stock timing is already fine when your not under boost

 

if you're going with secondary injectors, you should check into the hahn portfueler. It's a little pricey but it works AWESOME

 

Well guys, ill be getting some more pics up soon i just dont have much time to upload all of them. Heres the motor out of the car. Have already transfered most of the parts off the old block and onto the new one. Will have pics of the stock clutch as well when i take it off. Check out that hole =P

 

Were they stock rods?

 

damn, nice

 

Yes stock rods. i may have it running by friday, but i gotta be outta my apartment by wednesday so i had to put the car on hold until i get it cleaned and cleared out.

 

No actually i had heard this before and was kinda skeptical...but i keep hearing that the gains from the 2.4 mani swap are on up there in the numbers so i was kinda excited if it was true.

No sarcasm there...actually really curious

 

on a stock car, however you lose power down low...it will just shift your powerband upwards

sway!!! i need the wiring diagram!!

 

I know they say our stock engine can handle up to 250 hp before you NEED to upgrade stuff, can anyone give me numbers on the specific componets? Im going to make sure my **** is safe for what I do to it, and im planning on upgrading well before its needed. I guess I trust someone like sway who actually blew an engine to know which parts when more than a gm book that only talks about different shots of n20 killing parts.

 

woot looking forward to this sw4y as I have been since you originally mentioned it... i can't wait to see how it works out when fully planned out and tuned

 

Heres the thing, i was running my car at around 250bhp for 3500 miles without any issues. I could safely say those were the hardest 3500 miles that engine has ever seen. I was WOT every time i started the car. Why? cuz it was fun. 0-40mph in like 2 seconds haha. The engine took 20+psi of boost from a Mitsu. TD04-H turbo for 2 nights in a row of hard pulls. Finally the intake manifold couldnt take it anymore. So after that was replaced i was getting on the freeway babying the car and the #3 rod just collapsed and was thrown right through the front of the block. I can honestly say it can handle 250bhp when its tuned right. If you wanna be safe upgrade the internals anyways. Heres the thing tho. Those rods are 300hp rated by GM. The pistons are the weakest link. So i had to have been pushing over 300hp those 2 nights. kinda scary but damn did it pull like a **** from 4500 - 6500. I found the boost problem and its already been fixed. so once the car is started it wont see more then 8lb's until i get the pistons and rods in.

 

ok so pistons would be a good upgrade, might as well do rods while im at it then too i guess. But what about the valvetrain? I want to make it strong and all but I dont want to spend 1000's of unneccessary money on it. Good luck wih the build im really looking forward to it.

 

thats the same rod i lost

 

The GM build book says the stock valetrain is good to around 400 hp.

 

Pimpen.