Slowbalt2000's SmallturboL61coupe Build
I'm hoping you're not just taking a torch to them. If you can find out the alloy/grade used for the rods you can look up (or should be able to locate) correct heat treatment steps to get increased hardness without making it brittle.
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Joined: 05-15-11
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From: Livonia, MI
I know what im doing lol. Theyre made of 1019 so theyre barely hardenable but it will still work. I just dont think the oven in the machine shop will be able to austinetize the steel... We will see. Otherwise yes i will flame harden them haha
Find out if the chemistry department has a muffle furnace, that will get you to temps for austinetize the steel and you'll be able to control the cooling to ensure correct formation of the steel
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Joined: 05-15-11
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From: Livonia, MI
Its a low carbon low alloy steel so im pretty sure i have to cool it within 10 seconds to form martensite. Which i can almost guarantee it will crack or warp. We'll see
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Joined: 05-15-11
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From: Livonia, MI
Cryo has been debated back and forth as to whether or not its real. I know i can transformation harden steel. Cryo is a waste of money for stock l61 rods.
Cryo is real and it allows for a more complete transformation into martensite but this has to be during the initial cooling process of the heat treatment.
I think some of that debate is just random ass cryo treatment. It doesn't do **** if you just cryo treat it from room temp. from looking at fmsr and I noticed they have the option to cryo treat everything but it wouldn't do anything for the **** that they sell (if they even sell anything) because they'd have to make it a full heat treatment process.
I think some of that debate is just random ass cryo treatment. It doesn't do **** if you just cryo treat it from room temp. from looking at fmsr and I noticed they have the option to cryo treat everything but it wouldn't do anything for the **** that they sell (if they even sell anything) because they'd have to make it a full heat treatment process.
Thread Starter
Joined: 05-15-11
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From: Livonia, MI
I have been making some progress. Mostly machining the turbine housing and manifold to be single scroll instead of twin. The engine will be going in this week and many more pictures will be added.
Thread Starter
Joined: 05-15-11
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From: Livonia, MI
Ported exhaust mani? Cool.

Thanks to ARM for the idea on this.

Little Bit of pitting on one lobe of the new engine...Hopefully no problems here

Motor is ready to go in, just waiting on a couple small things like gaskets and bolts. Decided to use the 2.4 head so we will see how that goes. All of my 2.2 headwork will be saved for another project. Cleaned out all the ports and the intake and TB, also powercoated the VC and swapped over the clutch and thermostat housing.

Thanks to ARM for the idea on this.

Little Bit of pitting on one lobe of the new engine...Hopefully no problems here

Motor is ready to go in, just waiting on a couple small things like gaskets and bolts. Decided to use the 2.4 head so we will see how that goes. All of my 2.2 headwork will be saved for another project. Cleaned out all the ports and the intake and TB, also powercoated the VC and swapped over the clutch and thermostat housing.
Thread Starter
Joined: 05-15-11
Posts: 27,333
Likes: 584
From: Livonia, MI
so at this point im kinda confused. the pontiac g6 used the e37 ecu with the vvt 2.4 and the part number between the pontiac cam and the cobalt/hhr cam is the same. but the cobalt/hhr use the e67 ecu. So why is the reluctor clocked differently??
Thread Starter
Joined: 05-15-11
Posts: 27,333
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From: Livonia, MI
Is there a definitive way to know if the bs delete is in all the way? Doesnt seem to want to go in any more but it doesnt seem all the way in to me.



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