Gene's 2.2 LAP Supercharger Build
So Vince said, let's start over and he asked me what I felt was wrong with the car, etc and I mentioned before the MAP and CAI and after and he said he didn't realize I did a CAI. Here is what he said needed done...
"OHHHH The CAI is killing us. Probably causing all of these issues. Those things cause more problems than they solve.
The CAI is causing the MAF to report less airflow (a very common problem with CAIs) which is causing the fuel to go leaner than before, which is causing the surging (the fuel trims skyrocket at low loads) and also the lower reported HP.
So, the fix here is to retune the MAF curve for this new intake (or ditch the intake)."
So he sent me a new tune last night. It feels a lot smoother now. Although I see my IAT2's are higher above ambient than they were before and I saw somewhere online today about adjust the MAF curve can do that.
It also said max HP was 324. I doubt it hit 324. I was expecting around 300 with the CAI since it was 285 before, but now I don't know, lol. It feels smooth and fast... but did stall on me twice when I went to stop in traffic.
Will have to have Vince take a look at the logs again.
"OHHHH The CAI is killing us. Probably causing all of these issues. Those things cause more problems than they solve.
The CAI is causing the MAF to report less airflow (a very common problem with CAIs) which is causing the fuel to go leaner than before, which is causing the surging (the fuel trims skyrocket at low loads) and also the lower reported HP.
So, the fix here is to retune the MAF curve for this new intake (or ditch the intake)."
So he sent me a new tune last night. It feels a lot smoother now. Although I see my IAT2's are higher above ambient than they were before and I saw somewhere online today about adjust the MAF curve can do that.
It also said max HP was 324. I doubt it hit 324. I was expecting around 300 with the CAI since it was 285 before, but now I don't know, lol. It feels smooth and fast... but did stall on me twice when I went to stop in traffic.
Will have to have Vince take a look at the logs again.
So Vince said, let's start over and he asked me what I felt was wrong with the car, etc and I mentioned before the MAP and CAI and after and he said he didn't realize I did a CAI. Here is what he said needed done...
"OHHHH The CAI is killing us. Probably causing all of these issues. Those things cause more problems than they solve.
The CAI is causing the MAF to report less airflow (a very common problem with CAIs) which is causing the fuel to go leaner than before, which is causing the surging (the fuel trims skyrocket at low loads) and also the lower reported HP.
So, the fix here is to retune the MAF curve for this new intake (or ditch the intake)."
So he sent me a new tune last night. It feels a lot smoother now. Although I see my IAT2's are higher above ambient than they were before and I saw somewhere online today about adjust the MAF curve can do that.
It also said max HP was 324. I doubt it hit 324. I was expecting around 300 with the CAI since it was 285 before, but now I don't know, lol. It feels smooth and fast... but did stall on me twice when I went to stop in traffic.
Will have to have Vince take a look at the logs again.
"OHHHH The CAI is killing us. Probably causing all of these issues. Those things cause more problems than they solve.
The CAI is causing the MAF to report less airflow (a very common problem with CAIs) which is causing the fuel to go leaner than before, which is causing the surging (the fuel trims skyrocket at low loads) and also the lower reported HP.
So, the fix here is to retune the MAF curve for this new intake (or ditch the intake)."
So he sent me a new tune last night. It feels a lot smoother now. Although I see my IAT2's are higher above ambient than they were before and I saw somewhere online today about adjust the MAF curve can do that.
It also said max HP was 324. I doubt it hit 324. I was expecting around 300 with the CAI since it was 285 before, but now I don't know, lol. It feels smooth and fast... but did stall on me twice when I went to stop in traffic.
Will have to have Vince take a look at the logs again.
I know first hand how stupid these mafs are...the Ions are even more retarded because they freak out if the piping is larger than 2.25 around the maf area.
One of the reasons I'm running a short ram right now...
One of the reasons I'm running a short ram right now...
Sorry, been away a couple of days with the new job location and the selling house/buying house bull. Ughh...
I don't know about the 324. I mean, it pulls like a SOB, but I can't see it being that high. Although I am hitting 15 to 16 lbs of boost... so I dunno... but that would be around 270whp and sounds like Casey has heard of it before... so anything is possible I guess.
This new tune is much better, but the fuel trims are still freaking out at idle and coasting and Vince says he can help tune better for it.
I did mention the increased IAT2 temps previously. It is really weird. I am sometimes +50 of ambient at a stop and +30 or more when cruising and this is in 60 degree temps.
Previously, I was running +20 to +30 in cruising, etc and no more than +40 in 90 degree temps.
So, either something is wrong with my pump or the wiring, or I'm wondering if due to the increased HP that it is running hotter, but I don't think this is the case.
Luckily I have mine setup with one of those add a fuses and I can run the pump without the engine running, so I'll find out today what the deal is.
If nothing is wrong with the pump or wiring, I'm going to load an old tune and see what the temps say again.
Did I mention since I had the last tune that my emissons flags finally set and my car is inspected!!! YES!! LOL.
I don't know about the 324. I mean, it pulls like a SOB, but I can't see it being that high. Although I am hitting 15 to 16 lbs of boost... so I dunno... but that would be around 270whp and sounds like Casey has heard of it before... so anything is possible I guess.
This new tune is much better, but the fuel trims are still freaking out at idle and coasting and Vince says he can help tune better for it.
I did mention the increased IAT2 temps previously. It is really weird. I am sometimes +50 of ambient at a stop and +30 or more when cruising and this is in 60 degree temps.
Previously, I was running +20 to +30 in cruising, etc and no more than +40 in 90 degree temps.
So, either something is wrong with my pump or the wiring, or I'm wondering if due to the increased HP that it is running hotter, but I don't think this is the case.
Luckily I have mine setup with one of those add a fuses and I can run the pump without the engine running, so I'll find out today what the deal is.
If nothing is wrong with the pump or wiring, I'm going to load an old tune and see what the temps say again.
Did I mention since I had the last tune that my emissons flags finally set and my car is inspected!!! YES!! LOL.
your hitting 15-16 psi of boost? on a stock 2.2 lap? how are you not blowing it to pieces? i thought the 2.2 could only handle ~8 psi? btw gene im about to start on my LAP build
i just have to sell the trans am first that was the stipulations with the fiance. supercharge cobalt or v8 trans am... im gonna miss the trans am
your hitting 15-16 psi of boost? on a stock 2.2 lap? how are you not blowing it to pieces? i thought the 2.2 could only handle ~8 psi? btw gene im about to start on my LAP build
i just have to sell the trans am first that was the stipulations with the fiance. supercharge cobalt or v8 trans am... im gonna miss the trans am
I've heard amount of psi has nothing to do with it. how much HP your getting is what matters before your engine goes boom. and yes of course a smaller pulley will give you more HP. But if you look at a turbo car a bigger turbo and more efficent one will give you more HP at a lower psi than a smaller turbo putting out higher psi.
I've heard amount of psi has nothing to do with it. how much HP your getting is what matters before your engine goes boom. and yes of course a smaller pulley will give you more HP. But if you look at a turbo car a bigger turbo and more efficent one will give you more HP at a lower psi than a smaller turbo putting out higher psi.
PSI is directly related to HP. you can have a lot of PSI and lean it out and it goes boom.
the amount of HP relates to how strong the internals of the engine are
and PSI is PSI when it comes to turbos (efficient ones just spool easier - less resistance and such)
the size (bigger and smaller) just relate to how much boost the turbo can put out
sorry youre wrong.
PSI is directly related to HP. you can have a lot of PSI and lean it out and it goes boom.
the amount of HP relates to how strong the internals of the engine are
and PSI is PSI when it comes to turbos (efficient ones just spool easier - less resistance and such)
the size (bigger and smaller) just relate to how much boost the turbo can put out
PSI is directly related to HP. you can have a lot of PSI and lean it out and it goes boom.
the amount of HP relates to how strong the internals of the engine are
and PSI is PSI when it comes to turbos (efficient ones just spool easier - less resistance and such)
the size (bigger and smaller) just relate to how much boost the turbo can put out
20 psi on a t25 turbo will not make the same Horsepower as a GT35R @ 20psi due to the fact that a GT35R will flow more Lbs/Air.
I can go and say I want 20psi but if i did use a T25 i'd probably be choking the turbo and making less Power due to it. I'd probably make 260WHP on a T25 @ 20psi. (Tuning is your factor as to how much power you'll make too)
A GT35R on 20 PSI could theoretically make 350-400+ WHP assuming tuning is done properly while using 93 octane fuel.
your both right but size equals lag and if your internals can't stand 30 psi out of a small turbo it can't handle 20 psi out of something much bigger. tuning set aside with out propper internal reinforcement you aint making 350+ out of a 35R at 20 psi on regular gas unless your running CRAZY timing.
also if it's 20 psi out of a t25 vs 20 psi out of a 35r your pushing more air out of the 35r even though they are at the same amount of boost because of the size of the turbo, but that 35r needs much more exhaust to push it so you should get cams if you want to push something that size otherwise it's kind of a waste...
also if it's 20 psi out of a t25 vs 20 psi out of a 35r your pushing more air out of the 35r even though they are at the same amount of boost because of the size of the turbo, but that 35r needs much more exhaust to push it so you should get cams if you want to push something that size otherwise it's kind of a waste...
Yeah I was just using 20 psi as an example. But if you just pay attention to psi when your doing a build your going to run in to trouble and run in to it real fast. Hp gains is what your should be paying attention to. Especially on stock internals.
ok with all this said... my 09 2.2 lap with a sc setup can safetly run 15 psi? about how much power should that equal up to? gene... once again you are my hero... since with 6 psi i didnt figure it was worth doing... 15-16 my ears a perked up
There are short term and long term fuel trims. I'll let the service manual explain it to you so I don't mess it up, lol. But now that I've messed around with it, I understand it.
Fuel Trim
The control module controls the air/fuel metering system in order to provide the best possible combination of driveability, fuel economy, and emission control. The control module monitors the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) signal voltage while in Closed Loop and regulates the fuel delivery by adjusting the pulse width of the injectors based on this signal. The ideal fuel trim values are around 0 percent for both short and long term fuel trim. A positive fuel trim value indicates the control module is adding fuel in order to compensate for a lean condition by increasing the pulse width. A negative fuel trim value indicates that the control module is reducing the amount of fuel in order to compensate for a rich condition by decreasing the pulse width. A change made to the fuel delivery changes the long and short term fuel trim values. The short term fuel trim values change rapidly in response to the HO2S signal voltage. These changes fine tune the engine fueling. The long term fuel trim makes coarse adjustments to fueling in order to re-center and restore control to short term fuel trim. A scan tool can be used to monitor the short and long term fuel trim values. The long term fuel trim diagnostic is based on an average of several of the long term speed load learn cells. The control module selects the cells based on the engine speed and engine load. If the control module detects an excessively lean or rich condition, the control module will set a fuel trim DTC.
Yes, I'm hitting anywhere from 15-16 on the 2.9 pulley. I was going to the 2.8 but forget it. I don't need 17 or 18. You may be referring to 8 PSI on a turbo setup. The turbo setups can produce more HP with less PSI.
I don't know 100% how much HP I am making right now. Vince is currently tuning my car, specifically right now, the MAF curve for my CAI. I am showing 320+ HP on the Interceptor gauge but I suspect it is less.
Ok guys. Sorry I've been gone for a week or two. Life kind of got in the middle of the forum visits, lol. I switched dealerships from where I run my business (due to the GM Dealer closings list) and I have been concentrating on the business.
I believe I also mentioned I sold my house during all of that mess and had like 3 weeks to find a new home or the deal was null and void. I found a new home and am settling on both houses this coming Friday 10/23. I have been packing and doing all that fun home stuff.
As for my car, Vince is still trying to dial in my tune with the CAI installed. He is adjusting the MAF curve, but so far it has caused my fuel trims to go whacky when I'm slowing down for a light or stop sign and sometimes my car stalls because of it. I didn't data log it all last week due to life stuff.
I may be having clutch troubles soon. On the way home the other night a Subaru WRX pulled up beside me and I gave it everything I had and I stayed in front of him the whole time. His front bumper was at my rear tire and I kept hearing this purging noise... extremely LOUD... and thought it might have been nitrous or something, lol, but I went home and read up and I think it was a blow off valve.
He must have been surprised that a G5 GT was staying in front of him. He also gave me a thumbs up and a honk as I slowed down and he went to turn at the next intersection.
Only problem is... even in 3rd gear when I give it some gas now she is starting to slip. Before it would only do that in 5th gear.
The temps have also been in the 40's here (experiencing December temps this week) and the HP may be that much more increased.
I installed an older tune in to see how my new tune differed with the MAF curve adjustment and the car did not have as much power at all, could easily tell by seat of the pants, so it could be possible that the car has 300HP, not whp though.
Going to need to richen it up a little in this weather also. I'll keep you guys up to date.
Fuel Trim
The control module controls the air/fuel metering system in order to provide the best possible combination of driveability, fuel economy, and emission control. The control module monitors the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) signal voltage while in Closed Loop and regulates the fuel delivery by adjusting the pulse width of the injectors based on this signal. The ideal fuel trim values are around 0 percent for both short and long term fuel trim. A positive fuel trim value indicates the control module is adding fuel in order to compensate for a lean condition by increasing the pulse width. A negative fuel trim value indicates that the control module is reducing the amount of fuel in order to compensate for a rich condition by decreasing the pulse width. A change made to the fuel delivery changes the long and short term fuel trim values. The short term fuel trim values change rapidly in response to the HO2S signal voltage. These changes fine tune the engine fueling. The long term fuel trim makes coarse adjustments to fueling in order to re-center and restore control to short term fuel trim. A scan tool can be used to monitor the short and long term fuel trim values. The long term fuel trim diagnostic is based on an average of several of the long term speed load learn cells. The control module selects the cells based on the engine speed and engine load. If the control module detects an excessively lean or rich condition, the control module will set a fuel trim DTC.
your hitting 15-16 psi of boost? on a stock 2.2 lap? how are you not blowing it to pieces? i thought the 2.2 could only handle ~8 psi? btw gene im about to start on my LAP build
i just have to sell the trans am first that was the stipulations with the fiance. supercharge cobalt or v8 trans am... im gonna miss the trans am
Ok guys. Sorry I've been gone for a week or two. Life kind of got in the middle of the forum visits, lol. I switched dealerships from where I run my business (due to the GM Dealer closings list) and I have been concentrating on the business.
I believe I also mentioned I sold my house during all of that mess and had like 3 weeks to find a new home or the deal was null and void. I found a new home and am settling on both houses this coming Friday 10/23. I have been packing and doing all that fun home stuff.
As for my car, Vince is still trying to dial in my tune with the CAI installed. He is adjusting the MAF curve, but so far it has caused my fuel trims to go whacky when I'm slowing down for a light or stop sign and sometimes my car stalls because of it. I didn't data log it all last week due to life stuff.
I may be having clutch troubles soon. On the way home the other night a Subaru WRX pulled up beside me and I gave it everything I had and I stayed in front of him the whole time. His front bumper was at my rear tire and I kept hearing this purging noise... extremely LOUD... and thought it might have been nitrous or something, lol, but I went home and read up and I think it was a blow off valve.
He must have been surprised that a G5 GT was staying in front of him. He also gave me a thumbs up and a honk as I slowed down and he went to turn at the next intersection.
Only problem is... even in 3rd gear when I give it some gas now she is starting to slip. Before it would only do that in 5th gear.
The temps have also been in the 40's here (experiencing December temps this week) and the HP may be that much more increased.
I installed an older tune in to see how my new tune differed with the MAF curve adjustment and the car did not have as much power at all, could easily tell by seat of the pants, so it could be possible that the car has 300HP, not whp though.
Going to need to richen it up a little in this weather also. I'll keep you guys up to date.
Last edited by Gene Culley; Oct 18, 2009 at 11:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
He will get it taken care of. Right now it is me who didn't get the data log to him. I didn't mind being the first test dummy. I get rewarded every time I drive the car. It is really a pleasure to drive. Once I get the stalling thing taken care of the car will be great!
sorry youre wrong.
PSI is directly related to HP. you can have a lot of PSI and lean it out and it goes boom.
the amount of HP relates to how strong the internals of the engine are
and PSI is PSI when it comes to turbos (efficient ones just spool easier - less resistance and such)
the size (bigger and smaller) just relate to how much boost the turbo can put out
PSI is directly related to HP. you can have a lot of PSI and lean it out and it goes boom.
the amount of HP relates to how strong the internals of the engine are
and PSI is PSI when it comes to turbos (efficient ones just spool easier - less resistance and such)
the size (bigger and smaller) just relate to how much boost the turbo can put out
Ignore him


