2.2L LAP Performance Tech 2.2L LAP Performance Tech (2009+) 155 hp EcoTec with 150 lb-ft of torque

LE5 gone SC!

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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 11:27 PM
  #26  
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From: Hockinson Wa
Congrats
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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I saw that lol^^
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #28  
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With the brake cleaner, should I just spray all around the intake portions? Like intake mani seal, sc throttle body seal, those areas?
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 09:09 AM
  #29  
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Id use carb cleaner. Brake cleaner has the ability to melt certain materials. Like rubber or rtv or plastic. Both with remove paint though so be careful.
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 09:28 AM
  #30  
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Jacob4ta
According to the boost gauge, mechanical gauge by the way, I haven't gotten over 5 psi yet. The tune I have is set to 9 psi, but I haven't gotten over 5 like I said.

If I'm holding good vac, then boost must be fine right?



I noticed after I made my first post lol. I'm hoping it gets moved.
You can't tune how many lbs of boost you're going to be running on a supercharged car...well the le5. Lsj I believe you can reduce boost in like 1st gear. But yeah what size pulley you have and your exhaust will determine your boost level. You could start with telling us what you have. Though I'd say for sure you have a leak. Never seen anyone get below 8 psi on a supercharged le5 even with stock pulley.

How'd you get that throttle body mounted like that? Lol. Looks like its backwards I don't understand how it'd fit like that.

To check for leaks just get carb cleaner, maf cleaner, etc and spray around where dtuff connects to. Like the end of every hose, where stuff joins at and all that stuff. The car will rev itself a bit if you do have a leak.
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 12:02 PM
  #31  
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From: Antelope Valley, CA
Stock LSJ pulley, 3.34"? Mid length header with 1.75" primaries, 2.5" down pipe and stock exhaust
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 12:20 PM
  #32  
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From: Pharr
Catted I'm assuming? Yeah the exhaust did free up a little but not enough to drop you to 5 lbs. Go to town with that carb cleaner lol. And fix tb if you haven't haha
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 01:34 PM
  #33  
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What's your parts list? I'm doing the same exact thing to mine. It's under teardown right now. What are you using for intercooling?

Also, check out my build post and if you have any input, please feel free to share it! Thanks
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 01:43 PM
  #34  
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Chaos_Six
What's your parts list? I'm doing the same exact thing to mine. It's under teardown right now. What are you using for intercooling?

Also, check out my build post and if you have any input, please feel free to share it! Thanks
Post link I can guide you...lol jk but yeah post up
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 01:59 PM
  #35  
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I used Becks build. I put the SC on this spring, and have put almost 6000 miles on it so far, and it's still running good. If you guys have any questions, I can probably help you out or point you in the right direction.
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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From: Pharr
^^ I put mine on last spring so I got a year and some with it. Done lots of changes along the way
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 03:10 PM
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So do I need to spin my tb 180°?
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 03:16 PM
  #38  
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From: Pharr
Uhh depends how you're looking at it I guess lol. Flip it so that the connector is at the bottom and closer to the supercharger instead of facing away from it
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 11:36 PM
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After you had everything installed and hooked up did you turn the car on without a tune? I'm just concerned something will explode after I have everything all set and I start it up and boom..
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 11:55 PM
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Alright I changed my tb and now the plug is on the bottom and facing aft of the vehicle. I tried to find some pictures of how other people mounted them, but couldn't find any.

It didn't seem to make a difference in my AFRs. At idle still ~14.8 I may have my wideband not hooked up correctly, but in not sure. It reads find it seems anyway. I haven't seen anything below 14.5 in a few days now. Half the time it will max the gauge. On the highway it jumps constantly from 14.8 to 16s and above.

Im assuming the higher the number, the more air correct?

Edit: can this get moved to the proper section please :s

Last edited by Jacob4ta; Aug 21, 2013 at 12:00 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:10 AM
  #41  
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From: Pharr
Originally Posted by Chaos_Six
After you had everything installed and hooked up did you turn the car on without a tune? I'm just concerned something will explode after I have everything all set and I start it up and boom..
Don't start the car without a base tune on it -_-


Uhh that seems like a good idle afr. When you say you haven't had anything below 14.5 what do you mean? Lol like not even during wot? Leanest tune ever?
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:36 AM
  #42  
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I may have a loose connection or a bad ground. I'm not entirely sure. Like I said it doesn't fluctuate much below 14 afr.

As for first start, we of course flashed the tune that pk91 had on his LE5 then drove around while HPT was monitoring diagnostics. I'm running in his tune.

As for being really lean, I'll take your word for it lol. I'll have to double check all connections and make sure everything is happy. I'm getting ready to order a few things from ZZP in the next month. I'll probably get this tune in order, then get ready to install the goodies and get retuned, or learn how to.

I do own HPT and the flash cable, just no idea how to tune. Must learn at some point right?
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 01:07 AM
  #43  
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too much **** to learn lol. I've had hpt since i've been sc and ask me to move anything on hpt and i'll blow your car up. I guess cuz I just don't want to start filling my head with tuning stuff while im still in school lol.

So you are running 14s during WOT? lol Was the wideband new? When i first installed my wb the sensor was bad and it'd only go from like 14.6-14.9 afrs. Never really move much.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 02:19 AM
  #44  
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It's a used wideband. But yeah, even during WOT runs, my afrs don't go below 14.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:46 AM
  #45  
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From: Pharr
Doesn't seem right. Could be a bad sensor.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:31 PM
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check what voltage the primary O2 is giving, you can't tune like that but you can tell if the WB is broken. you better hope your seeing high voltages or else your motor is not going to be running for much longer.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #47  
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I don't understand how people can even tune without widebands. Here like every truck is dropped and has a tune atleast. Their "tune" takes like 20-30 mins to do and they don't use a wb. My cousin has bolt ons and a cam in his and he doesn't even know what a wideband is lol. I feel bad for the vehicles being tuned by locals
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Twoozofjuice
I don't understand how people can even tune without widebands. Here like every truck is dropped and has a tune atleast. Their "tune" takes like 20-30 mins to do and they don't use a wb. My cousin has bolt ons and a cam in his and he doesn't even know what a wideband is lol. I feel bad for the vehicles being tuned by locals
simple really, but it doesnt hurt NA car's as much as it does boosted car's.



The only way id ive use o2 millivolts as a reference is if the car was boosted from the factory and you had a starting point to go with. But you almost always need a wideband for accuracy because as you can tell the temp of the o2 sensor changes the AFR quite drastically.

880mv is considered like the standard for a NA car with a o2 sensor at its "normal operating temp"
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 01:23 AM
  #49  
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Alright so I diagnosed my afrs. Turns out 2 things were working against me. One, my O2 sensor was halfway threaded out, and 2 a few of the connecting wires on the plug to gauge portion were pulled out!

Hooked everything back up and tightened it down and now I'm seeing all aspects of the af gauge.

I replaced my boost gauge vacuum line and it didn't seem to affect boost numbers.

Now it's really time to set up with a tuner.
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 08:22 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Spawne32
simple really, but it doesnt hurt NA car's as much as it does boosted car's.

The only way id ive use o2 millivolts as a reference is if the car was boosted from the factory and you had a starting point to go with. But you almost always need a wideband for accuracy because as you can tell the temp of the o2 sensor changes the AFR quite drastically.

880mv is considered like the standard for a NA car with a o2 sensor at its "normal operating temp"
Here's the thing with tuning off a O2- it's just stupid. Sure that graph shows what one individual sensor MIGHT give off at certain AFR's but literally every O2 is different, like 50mV different. They are called narrowbands for a reason, they can give rich or lean, that is all. Trying to get any other data besides that is just guessing as the transfer function just isn't correct anymore.
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