I thought you needed to drill and tap for 8mm bolts when going SC?

 

That code is for the MAP sensor on the intake manifold. Probably need a new sensor if you've been throwing that code. Especially if it's malfunctioning and reading incorrect temps.

 

That's happened to me before, my air filter fell off and the MAF was getting irradic input. Check that first. THen check your connections @ MAF and MAP. Sounds like the MAF sensor is off though. Look for an air leak, that's where I'd start. Did it completely stall or did you step on the gas and the car was going nowhere?

 

Alright so I left my friends place expecting the worst, but it ran just fine? I went to AutoZone to buy a MAP sensor thinking it was that, but they didn't have the correct one in stock.

I ended up just going home, checking the MAF plug and I discovered the air filter had fallen off the intake tube. I cinched down a new pipe clamp real good and I feel confident about it.

I haven't thrown the code again yet, but if I do, I'll just order a new one. It was $112 from AutoZone, special order.

 

Ac delco if you need a new map. Or CED.

 

Aha I knew it! So, it happened to me when I lived in NH about 5 years ago. It was snowing and I hit a chunk of wet snow that hit the inner fenderwall when it splashed. I think that's what made it fall off. Anyway, I replaced the MAF after that because I wasn't sure if it got fouled from the filter getting knocked off. I'm sure your map sensor is fine. The code was thrown because the filter fell off and MAF was getting crazy readings.

 

I don 't remember drilling and tapping anything. FASTENAL can get you anything you need, in any length, thread size and grade. You'll pay for it though. Sure beats tapping anything if you want to go back to stock.

 

I drilled out the holes on the mount and tapped the block for the intake manifold bottom mount. :P

 

You don't need that mount lol

 

I didn't think so!! I had everything bolted on and realized I didn't put the mount on but everything was still fine. But to play it safe I took the time and put it on. Oh well...

 

weird. over on the Jbody forum they suggest drilling and tapping the block for 8mm bolts, or using special bolts that are 8mm thickness with 6mm threads, so there's no play in the manifold.

 

I have to take my manifold back off anyway to replace the endplate. And well, quite frankly I realized the bottom mount didn't seem like it was doing anything. I should take it off for weight reduction because racecar

 

I'm not sure what it does to begin with. There's like 9 bolts that hold the IM on anyway lol.

Did you get a dualpass endplate?

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the lower manifold mount is there to help support the supercharger. Both the weight of the supercharger and the tension from the belt drive puts a lot of pressure on those 7 M6 bolts. Now I dont know if this is engough force to stretch bolts or bend parts, but GM put it there for a reason...

 

I made my own. However the very top of the endplate had a small dent where the o-ring seats, when I tightened down the blower, it cracked. -_- so I had to buy a new endplate. I also bought a new fitting to tap in to make my own dual pass. Fitting is in tomorrow and the endplate should be here Tuesday.

 

This actually makes sense now that I think about it. So having read this, I'd say keep the lower mount lol.

 

Very good point. I didn't think about belt tension. Oh well, I guess I'll leave it on there then lol

 

meh i've had it like that more than a year and it's been fine. and thats cuz i've had reaaaallly tight belt setups where the tensioner was maxed (went through 2 tensioners on that setup) and the bolts have been fine

 

Have you seen the bolt that goes through the lower mount? there is a reason. If you have it, use it. It won't hurt.

 

The thing is pretty beefy haha.

 

Do you have all the intake manifold bolts secured to the head? Lower support bracket? I did run my SC without the lower bracket, but I used good hardened bolts to the head that were a bitch to find especially after I used a phenolic spacer.

5-7 psi sounds about right on a 3.4 pulley depending on exhaust or boost leaks(jk). That is a big ass pulley though. Get that POS running right and pulley down to a 2.9 so you can make some good power. Your clutch should be fine for that as long as you aren't beating it.

 

Where did you get this idler bracket?! I'm scrambling to find one right now and I refuse to buy all the LSJ garbage.

 

That was something that pk91 sold me with the kit. I know Beck posted on the swap that rebelautoworx.com sells them.

Not entirely sure though.

 

Looks easy enough to make rather than buy lsj stuff.

 

Oh and for the alternator, did you leave it alone or space it out? If you used spacers how big were they, Im going to make my own. I assume half an inch to an inch?