2.2 good bye hello 2.4SS
Look at dyno numbers. If you want 200 whp out of 2.4 you'll need bolt ons plus cams and ported throttle body. Oh and a tune.
Most with just bolt ons and a tune are getting 170-180 whp. Don't forget the rated numbers of 171 in the specs are SAE numbers and reflect flywheel HP.
Most with just bolt ons and a tune are getting 170-180 whp. Don't forget the rated numbers of 171 in the specs are SAE numbers and reflect flywheel HP.
that said, with a decent tuner, and an opened up header, i could believe that a 2.4 could be in the higher 190s at the flywheel.
well, yeah and no.
lets be honest here, horsepower has always just been a big dick contest anyway... it's a hell of a lot easier to just start pitching things out... carpets, seats, radios, these are the enemies of speedz0rz!!!!!!1111
Power to weight ratio is what determines how fast your car can be, and gearing if you want to get technical. Either increase power or lose weight.
my point is, one way of measuring power is not any better than another, as long as we are all working on the same scale.
2.4's are stronger them people make them out to be
well i am just gonna keep the LS for now and mod the hell out of it i hate to see my work go so untill i get the money i am gonna wait and get the new SS/TC
PS BOOST soon to come on the LS
PS BOOST soon to come on the LS
hmmm sooo you guys haven't looked at the dyno thread thread huh.. there are a few people running 180 WHP from a mustang dyno with full bolt ons and a tune.. in all reality though cams will get you over 200 whp even on a mustang.. one guy is pushing 187 whp and he could push his tune a bit and get 190 or more whp.. stock ss/scs put that down on a mustang so even right now he's pushing close to 200 whp on a DJ.
2.4's are stronger them people make them out to be
2.4's are stronger them people make them out to be
honestly, i don't trust WHP. i don't want to hear numbers until the engine is taken out of the car and put on a real water brake dyno, otherwise, it's all too subjective.
about what?
# REDFOCZ 186 whp, 177 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, TB, E, H, DP, T
# dtabbs 181 whp, 164 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, H, DP, T, E
umm why dont you trust whp? i'd rather hear a mustang dyno number then corrected sae numbers, so then i guess the 215hp is what you'd rather hear... ? that number sounds nice.. but it's not like you'll be romping ss/scs because they're rated at "205 hp"
IMO knowing what you really put out is better so you can know why you lost lol
# REDFOCZ 186 whp, 177 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, TB, E, H, DP, T
# dtabbs 181 whp, 164 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, H, DP, T, E
IMO knowing what you really put out is better so you can know why you lost lol
Last edited by elecblue06; Jan 22, 2008 at 11:19 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
there is a big difference between the 2.2 auto and the 2.4 auto. my friend and i raced at the track and i was way ahead. vvt makes abig difference, maybe the butt dyno doesnt but it is a good bit faster.
about what?
# REDFOCZ 186 whp, 177 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, TB, E, H, DP, T
# dtabbs 181 whp, 164 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, H, DP, T, E
umm why dont you trust whp? i'd rather hear a mustang dyno number then corrected sae numbers, so then i guess the 215hp is what you'd rather hear... ? that number sounds nice.. but it's not like you'll be romping ss/scs because they're rated at "205 hp"
IMO knowing what you really put out is better so you can know why you lost lol
# REDFOCZ 186 whp, 177 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, TB, E, H, DP, T
# dtabbs 181 whp, 164 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, H, DP, T, E
umm why dont you trust whp? i'd rather hear a mustang dyno number then corrected sae numbers, so then i guess the 215hp is what you'd rather hear... ? that number sounds nice.. but it's not like you'll be romping ss/scs because they're rated at "205 hp"
IMO knowing what you really put out is better so you can know why you lost lol
No replacement for displacment!
People get way too butt hurt.
It depends on the grand scheme of things.
If you have a ton of $$$$$$ get the 2.4 and build it.
If you only wanna do a few mods and stop at or around 300whp get the LSJ, half the work is already done.
It depends on the grand scheme of things.
If you have a ton of $$$$$$ get the 2.4 and build it.
If you only wanna do a few mods and stop at or around 300whp get the LSJ, half the work is already done.
for the price, the ss 2.4 is a rip-off. who would drop an extra 5 grand for a car that is barely noticably faster? I could see trading up to a ss/sc or ss/tc, but to a ss 2.4, it's too insignificant of a change to justify.
about what?
# REDFOCZ 186 whp, 177 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, TB, E, H, DP, T
# dtabbs 181 whp, 164 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, H, DP, T, E
umm why dont you trust whp? i'd rather hear a mustang dyno number then corrected sae numbers, so then i guess the 215hp is what you'd rather hear... ? that number sounds nice.. but it's not like you'll be romping ss/scs because they're rated at "205 hp"
IMO knowing what you really put out is better so you can know why you lost lol
# REDFOCZ 186 whp, 177 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, TB, E, H, DP, T
# dtabbs 181 whp, 164 wtq Verified Mustang Dyno I, H, DP, T, E
umm why dont you trust whp? i'd rather hear a mustang dyno number then corrected sae numbers, so then i guess the 215hp is what you'd rather hear... ? that number sounds nice.. but it's not like you'll be romping ss/scs because they're rated at "205 hp"
IMO knowing what you really put out is better so you can know why you lost lol
my point is that a chassis dyno is a tuning tool, not a real way to measure HP. ****, a car can vary depending on the tires you have on it.
if the engines are on a stand, it's a lot more accurate a measurement.
i paid $14,500 for my 2.4
Last edited by joeworkstoohard; Jan 22, 2008 at 04:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
alot of ways to justify the price difference.. and i've driven a 2.2 ion as well as my 2.4 ion... my ion is noticably faster.. honestly more so noticeable when when i test drove a redline last week ...


