It can be done with his displacement

 

If you do an EWP, just pull the chain and leave the stock balance shafts there to block the oil holes. Simple. Yes you need cams and a ported single pass. Possibly a custom I'm.
Go with zzp for most parts.
DW300 is plenty of pump AND the only one available that is warrantied on e85.

And don't rule out n2o. It's a perfectly legit power adder. Just like a sc or turbo.

 

A couple of things. Get the dw300 pump, it has a 3 year no questions asked warranty. Also for higher power levels you want a full return setup. I would suggest 80's and e85. If you want a deal on the parts let me know. Your tb spacer from zzp might not be ideal for your setup. Look at the bore of it and see if it is tapered. Essentially you would have a 3" tb and then a spacer that tapers from 3"-2.75" and then a supercharger opening of 3". If your spacer is like that you will be losing power.

I think you can make 450 on the 2.4l but it will take some money.

 

No it can't lol

 

There are people who pushed over 3xx on stock pulley with the TVS on the 2.0, why isn't 5xx possible with a bigger displacement? Turbo tim's stroker put down great numbers and that was with the m62 and only 2.1 set up

The block josh built for me could of done 500whp, dyno jet numbers of course and maybe with some meth and maybe some of Joe's magic motor sauce

 

I think the only way you could see 500 would be with spray, still very respectable for a blown 4 banger. Good luck man

 

I would love to run e85, problem is that the closest station to me is about half hour drive...so that sucks

The TB spacer was clearanced for the LS4 but I just looked on ZZPs website and it appears to neck down, I just didnt catch it before i put it on. When I drop the car off to have the intake reworked next week maybe I can talk my buddy into just opening that spacer up some more.


On the fuel return setup: I have searched over and over on here and the googles; have never found a good write up or pictures of how this install goes together and since its ment for the LSJ, would I need to go ahead and swap my fuel rail over to the LSJ one that I have sitting around?


I would love to spray, but I want to keep her intact as long as possible
500 may be over exaggerating what this little **** box can do; hell, Im prolly gonna never get there cause I'll be spending all my monies on trying to hook up the 350/350 numbers next up...



On another note, After I make my insurance payment and spend next weekend on a party bender, if I have anything left, I will be ordering a set of the bwoody trac bars. Would like to build them, even better cause there is a parts list on here; but **** it, dont really feel like chasing down parts... Will also be getting some DRs too; and I will be going back to the strip, looking for low to mid 13s...Dont know if its doable with my non-drivin-ass behind the wheel.

 

Might be a dumb question but can freight companies such as UPS, FEDEX, etc ship flammable liquids such as e85? Whenever I order solvents at work its always big freight companies and wont go to a residence.

 

Don't waste the money on a kit fuel return. Make your own and go ahead and do the feed. I have -8 from the pump to the rail, -8 from the rail to reg and the a -6 return.

I'd also bet a 50/50 mix would net more power.. I run a 50/50 with just a 10..

 

I know someone has to because one of the local honda kids has e98 shipped to him in 55 gallon drums.

 

OK That engine is still for sale:

ZZPerformance - Prototype Complete ZZP Stroker Engine #ZZ-USED-PROT-STRKRMTR

Note the cams S3 aren't even suited for DD. And also look at the numbers for different fuel types. The compression is higher too and displacement is 2.3

347whp on 93gas. It took e98 to get 400whp.

...

OP

I think you can get ~350whp

You need either plugs or neutral shafts in the block. If you simply remove them you will not have any oil pressure. I used these:

Level Zero Motorsports

It is permanent though so consider the zzp shafts.

Oh and you are going to run 12s in this car with slicks man. Don't know why you think you'd only be running 13s lol.

 

This morning at work, I was talking to my tech in training (tit for short)
His father in law owns a machine shop, I gave him a good picture of the spacer and my tit said he will see him tomorrow and he will ask if its possible to open that up to 3" on the lathe.

You have that in the neon, correct?
Don't think it would be too much different, did you just mirror the factory hardlines and ziptie the feed/return to the factory retainers underneath?
Runnin the line doesn't scare me, it would be dealing with the fuel pump canister since it uses the non-quick-pain-in-the-ass-quick-disconnect on the plastic nipple.

And for the return, did you just drill into an open area in the canister and loctite a nut on the back side of the AN fitting?

Im also planning on removing the evap canister and all that bullshit, since it really dont do too much.


I have looked at the level zero kit, but that retains the factory chain still for the water pump. If possible, I would like to convert that to the electric kit that zzp has. Only issue is that I will be deleting the AC (no big deal, I never use it) and I will have to figure out the belt routing with the blower.

Im thinking that I can possibly use my factory le5 tensioner, remove the SC one, and route it, but it would be close.

And on the 1/4 times, My 1st run ever, i went 14.09 at 107 with a pair of shitty track tires and average IAT of ~130. gonna go back on the 7th or 14th with DRs, footballs, and the trac bars. And it dont help that I cant drive for **** either...




Its gonna be a fun filled winter...I just hope my boss will let me take a couple days off and let me use my bay for all this **** and let me take my time so I can take a ton of pictures.



Oh and, Thanks for all the help and ideas guys.

 

Not in the mind set to explain it but I will get back to you tomorrow.
Here is my canister though.




Lines under the hood.

 

i think you may want to consider a larger air filter, you don't want that tiny turbo to have any restriction you know?

 

6262 is a 72lb-min turbo, Stock TC is a 37lb-min. 50 trim is a 48lb.

I like your definition on tiny.

Anyways retards aside , That's my canister (not sure what the Cobalt's looks like, I never had to mess with mine). It runs -8 from the bulkhead from the pump to the rail (with an inline Summit billet filter) it then goes -8 from the rail to the reg. Under the reg is the return port and it goes -6 all the way back to the canister and I have that dumping on the pump to cool it off. (you have to get submersible line for intank though, it's important)
1:1 Boost reference regulator will ad 1lb of fuel pressure for ever lb of boost it sees over top of the base fuel pressure. You will get more power out of the same injectors and pump with it.

Here is the place I got all my plumbing parts at.
http://www.performancedynamicsspeeds...let/StoreFront


And with meth I'd stick to a 50/50 mix. With the right nozzle it will be fine octane wise with your power and will see most of the gains from cooling. 100% meth and you loose the cooling aspect of meth.

 

You have a 8an feed line on a single pump?

Verbatim.....price out the parts for a return style then get back to me, our kit is cheaper than you can buy the parts for. You would need to install your lsj fuel rail.

 

Until it gets tore down over winter. Made over 500 on a single 255 with the bypass mod/bottleneck fix. It will be seeing an 044.

 

hahahah are you serious? I was being sarcastic.

 

I took it as you just didn't know what you was talking about.

Just trying to help someone save money. I bought my first return line from a Vendor for $299. Decided to ditch it. Bought a great Aeromotive regulator from a Friend for $70, All the fittings for the rail, regulator, bulkhead at the canister, lines/etc was under $100.

 

for the fuel pump, all the fittings, in line fuel filter, to rail, injectors, regulator, and back to tank.
It was $775. For full -8 feed/ -6 return setup. All black braided nylon hose, quality AN parts black anodized, fuel lab reg, dw300, 80s. Also started talking to my buddy at JMB performance while we were out last night, he said he will be able to fab up a badass fuel rail for cheaper than the DDMworks rail.

Yes it is more than the kit offered. I will be going thru the list of needed parts on that website you linked perfect.

Only thing I would like to find is the fuel pump assembly for AN fittings without the bullshit evap crap. would make it cleaner.

Also if I go this route, ALL evap stuff will be gone, charcoal canister to purge valve.

 

Unless you plan on going over 700hp you won't need 8an or an aftermarket fuel rail. If you had enough pump the stock lines could go even higher....Also your car won't be legal without the evap parts so if you have inspections you are sol.

 

JMB is a great company. Got my head from them.

Magnafuel makes really good regulators.
Magnafuel MP-9925-B MagnaFuel EFI Regulators & Fittings

 

Yup; I like going over there all the time and getting to hang out and occasionally help. haven't been over there in a couple weeks, but I will be there sometime this week to drop the fuel rail off.
I have decided to do a -6 feed and -6 return if I decide to go that route.
their 1400hp srt10(silver) truck uses -8 for the feed. so thats way overkill for my little shitbox

Im gonna drop off the stock LSJ fuel rail that I have sitting around, and they are gonna pop off the little cap where the feed is, and gonna weld a plate and put a -6 male fitting on it and powder coat it.


And on the EVAP stuff, I have both my inspectors licenses and I work with several other inspectors...Im good. So it will definitely be ripped out.

I have to double check how many lines are underneath the car, but I was thinking about clipping my meth line where the evap lines clip into that retainer, since I have it currently zip tied to the evap line anyways. And if possible, take the evap line and run my 2 meth pump wires thru it to clean up the underside a little more. Kinda hard to explain, but I think I know what I'm thinking...


Hopefully in the next week or two, I get a fuel pump job in an ecotec so I can take the entire canister setup and hack it up and see how I can do a feed and return and try to make it as clean looking as possible.

 

Oh and on another note. The phenolic spacer has been working phenomenal. When cruisin, My IATs after the blower are still 18-22 degrees above ambient like before but after 3 back to back 40-100+ pulls tonight in 57degree weather, the IATs never got above 85. The 14gph of 50/50 meth help also...

Also, it take A LOT longer for the temps to increase in traffic or idling.

so for 100$, its a solid purchase in my book!

 

labor intensive to install , but yeah can't go wrong