2.4ss/sc build commenced!!!
#326
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manifold was perfectly fine. Reason for all my trouble were the two bolts that I used for the intercooler pump. They were to long and were hitting the intake manifold and causing it to have a very small leak.
#329
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I'll post some up in the morning while I do some datalogging. I was gonna spend all day tomorrow cleaning the car cuz it is just filthy from where it was just sitting there for four months rofl.... Also gonna redo the valve cover cuz it looks like ****.
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" It looks like I'm running at an incredibly high rate of speed! " Dumb & Dumber
Thats awesome man! Glad to see it running!
#332
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I just got an sc kit and I have some questions.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-4l...34/index8.html
You guys confused me here. So let me see if I got this right. I wanna make sure I have everything.
The sensor "1 bar" that attaches to my SC is broken. http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9...0521030252.jpg The IM sensor "2.5 bar" opening is blocked by a screw
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/4...g5340large.jpg I also do not have the sensor for it. So basically are you guys saying that I DON'T need the IM
sensor, and I can use my stock sensor for the SC? Do I need this so called "pigtail" or am I using a stock connection? Cause I see no such "pigtail" in my kit other
than for the throttle body. I also see no connection in my kit that goes to the "1bar" sensor. All I have is injectors with harness, and ic pump wire. I'm probably having it trifecta tuned.
Also my SC kit came with a cx racing h/e. Do I also need the stock lsj h/e? Since I see the OP has one and my kit doesn't. (my IM has a home made dual pass and the kit came with option b)
These are the plugs the guy gave me with the kit are they the wrong ones? http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/9...0521030307.jpg
And one more thing, do I need any of these?
12594387 – LSJ IC Pump Insulator
15253932 – LSJ Power Brake Booster Vacuum Hose (why do I need this what's wrong with the stock hose?)
12584369 – LSJ TB To Purge Solenoid Tube (no idea what this is or if I have it)
Dragon how much did you boost with stock pulley?
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-4l...34/index8.html
You guys confused me here. So let me see if I got this right. I wanna make sure I have everything.
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/4...g5340large.jpg I also do not have the sensor for it. So basically are you guys saying that I DON'T need the IM
sensor, and I can use my stock sensor for the SC? Do I need this so called "pigtail" or am I using a stock connection? Cause I see no such "pigtail" in my kit other
than for the throttle body. I also see no connection in my kit that goes to the "1bar" sensor. All I have is injectors with harness, and ic pump wire. I'm probably having it trifecta tuned.
Also my SC kit came with a cx racing h/e. Do I also need the stock lsj h/e? Since I see the OP has one and my kit doesn't. (my IM has a home made dual pass and the kit came with option b)
These are the plugs the guy gave me with the kit are they the wrong ones? http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/9...0521030307.jpg
And one more thing, do I need any of these?
12594387 – LSJ IC Pump Insulator
15253932 – LSJ Power Brake Booster Vacuum Hose (why do I need this what's wrong with the stock hose?)
12584369 – LSJ TB To Purge Solenoid Tube (no idea what this is or if I have it)
Dragon how much did you boost with stock pulley?
Last edited by slobalt08; 05-21-2011 at 03:11 AM.
#333
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if you use the stock 1bar sensor in the manifold's 2.5 bar sensor location, then you will connect it to the factory 1 bar wiring harness (though the wires may need to be lengthened to reach that far). Be sure to tell Vince when you get tuned that you are using the 1 bar sensor and not a 2.5 bar sensor.
one HE is good, 2 is better. You dont need the stock one though. The option B kit is supposed to thread in to the stock HE (theres a tap for it), but there are alternate ways of setting it up. The easiest is with the stock HE.
I cant comment on the plugs..NGK has changed their naming scheme a couple times since ive done my install,and i dont remember what the correct ones are now. factory plugs a couple heat ranges colder should work fine though
you need the insulator (it keeps the pump in its place, otherwise it will just slide out of the mounting bracket)
The hose you will only need if the stock one doesnt reach the location of the new vacuum port on the intake manifold. (any hose will do...it doesnt need to be the GM piece specifically)
Its a narrow, hard (not flexible) black plastic connection, maybe 4-6" long, in sort of a J shape. If you dont have it yet, buy it. You need it.
one HE is good, 2 is better. You dont need the stock one though. The option B kit is supposed to thread in to the stock HE (theres a tap for it), but there are alternate ways of setting it up. The easiest is with the stock HE.
I cant comment on the plugs..NGK has changed their naming scheme a couple times since ive done my install,and i dont remember what the correct ones are now. factory plugs a couple heat ranges colder should work fine though
you need the insulator (it keeps the pump in its place, otherwise it will just slide out of the mounting bracket)
The hose you will only need if the stock one doesnt reach the location of the new vacuum port on the intake manifold. (any hose will do...it doesnt need to be the GM piece specifically)
Its a narrow, hard (not flexible) black plastic connection, maybe 4-6" long, in sort of a J shape. If you dont have it yet, buy it. You need it.
#334
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if you use the stock 1bar sensor in the manifold's 2.5 bar sensor location, then you will connect it to the factory 1 bar wiring harness (though the wires may need to be lengthened to reach that far). Be sure to tell Vince when you get tuned that you are using the 1 bar sensor and not a 2.5 bar sensor.
.
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http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/4257/img5367a.jpg
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/1579/img5368n.jpg
http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/9316/img5399y.jpg
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/2162/img5365e.jpg
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2487/img5373d.jpg
#338
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wow so this is joes build post,anywase the sensor on the blower is not needed so just block it off or leave the sensor there. As for the third line on top of the h/e thats a bleed line for the opt b tank. Other things your gonna have to know is you do have to grind a little bit of the block for the tensioner and make sure your injectors look like they work. When i got done with mine one of the injectors had a crack and it misfired so i would suggest you look at them closely and make sure there in good condition.
#343
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i was rocking stock clutch for like 15k boosted ad when i got it replaced it had more life left in her .. it's all how you drive... my clutch had like 82k on it when i replaced it and the clutch master cylinder went out at 12k and puked hydrolic fluid on it lol but it still had life lol just a few hot spots
#344
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i was rocking stock clutch for like 15k boosted ad when i got it replaced it had more life left in her .. it's all how you drive... my clutch had like 82k on it when i replaced it and the clutch master cylinder went out at 12k and puked hydrolic fluid on it lol but it still had life lol just a few hot spots
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