manifold was perfectly fine. Reason for all my trouble were the two bolts that I used for the intercooler pump. They were to long and were hitting the intake manifold and causing it to have a very small leak.

 

last couple of days, I've been datalogging with vince. I might be going to the track tomorrow to see she does in a 1/4 mile.

 

where r the vids @

 

I'll post some up in the morning while I do some datalogging. I was gonna spend all day tomorrow cleaning the car cuz it is just filthy from where it was just sitting there for four months rofl.... Also gonna redo the valve cover cuz it looks like ****.

 

40-85mph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhIjBmZDpjQ

 

" It looks like I'm running at an incredibly high rate of speed! " Dumb & Dumber

Thats awesome man! Glad to see it running!

 

I just got an sc kit and I have some questions.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-4l...34/index8.html

You guys confused me here. So let me see if I got this right. I wanna make sure I have everything.

The sensor "1 bar" that attaches to my SC is broken. http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9...0521030252.jpg The IM sensor "2.5 bar" opening is blocked by a screw
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/4...g5340large.jpg I also do not have the sensor for it. So basically are you guys saying that I DON'T need the IM
sensor, and I can use my stock sensor for the SC? Do I need this so called "pigtail" or am I using a stock connection? Cause I see no such "pigtail" in my kit other
than for the throttle body. I also see no connection in my kit that goes to the "1bar" sensor. All I have is injectors with harness, and ic pump wire. I'm probably having it trifecta tuned.

Also my SC kit came with a cx racing h/e. Do I also need the stock lsj h/e? Since I see the OP has one and my kit doesn't. (my IM has a home made dual pass and the kit came with option b)

These are the plugs the guy gave me with the kit are they the wrong ones? http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/9...0521030307.jpg

And one more thing, do I need any of these?

12594387 – LSJ IC Pump Insulator
15253932 – LSJ Power Brake Booster Vacuum Hose (why do I need this what's wrong with the stock hose?)
12584369 – LSJ TB To Purge Solenoid Tube (no idea what this is or if I have it)


Dragon how much did you boost with stock pulley?

 

if you use the stock 1bar sensor in the manifold's 2.5 bar sensor location, then you will connect it to the factory 1 bar wiring harness (though the wires may need to be lengthened to reach that far). Be sure to tell Vince when you get tuned that you are using the 1 bar sensor and not a 2.5 bar sensor.

one HE is good, 2 is better. You dont need the stock one though. The option B kit is supposed to thread in to the stock HE (theres a tap for it), but there are alternate ways of setting it up. The easiest is with the stock HE.

I cant comment on the plugs..NGK has changed their naming scheme a couple times since ive done my install,and i dont remember what the correct ones are now. factory plugs a couple heat ranges colder should work fine though

you need the insulator (it keeps the pump in its place, otherwise it will just slide out of the mounting bracket)
The hose you will only need if the stock one doesnt reach the location of the new vacuum port on the intake manifold. (any hose will do...it doesnt need to be the GM piece specifically)
Its a narrow, hard (not flexible) black plastic connection, maybe 4-6" long, in sort of a J shape. If you dont have it yet, buy it. You need it.

 

The sensor location on the IM is blocked by a screw from the previous owner. The SC sensor location is not blocked, but that sensor broke.

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/4257/img5367a.jpg

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/1579/img5368n.jpg

http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/9316/img5399y.jpg


the cx racing has 3 nipples maybe the one on top is for the option B?

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/2162/img5365e.jpg

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2487/img5373d.jpg

 

you're going to have to take out the screw then. the sensor must get a reading from inside the manifold, not on the supercharger.

as for the HE, yea, that top one can be used for the opt B. I wasnt aware CXR came with a 3rd connection on top like the stock HE does

 

Ok. So what about the sensor for the SC I have to buy a new one? Or do I just block it off and not use it?

 

just block it off. what you block it with is up to you

 

wow so this is joes build post,anywase the sensor on the blower is not needed so just block it off or leave the sensor there. As for the third line on top of the h/e thats a bleed line for the opt b tank. Other things your gonna have to know is you do have to grind a little bit of the block for the tensioner and make sure your injectors look like they work. When i got done with mine one of the injectors had a crack and it misfired so i would suggest you look at them closely and make sure there in good condition.

 

2 years going strong lol

 

dam joe you had it bad

 

Is it an ABSOLUTE MUST to upgrade the clutch? i really don't have the money after spending all of it on the sc kit lmao how long will the stock clutch last if u dont change it?

 

just stay off the throttle and itll be fine. no clutch dumps, no agressive shifting, and instead of WOT, go like 70% throttle, and the clutch wil be good. But im sure you want to do all those things, so go get a new one!

 

i was rocking stock clutch for like 15k boosted ad when i got it replaced it had more life left in her .. it's all how you drive... my clutch had like 82k on it when i replaced it and the clutch master cylinder went out at 12k and puked hydrolic fluid on it lol but it still had life lol just a few hot spots

 

Thanks for the tips! Unfortunately I don't have the $ now for one as I spent it all on my sc build lol

18k on my balt... that gives me some confidence

 

dont buy boost if u cant upgrade ur clutch

 

little too late for that now lol

 

dont push the man pedal then.

 

but... but... a few times won't hurt right? lol what clutch do you guys recommend?