Dual Pass intercooler - Page 9 - Cobalt SS Network

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Dual Pass intercooler

Old 05-16-2007, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
That coolant should never be hotter than the engine coolant anyway, and if it was it would only be for a short time. I doubt the coolant temp in the intercooler system every breaks 200 degrees, i would say mostly its at 150 or so. Gotta borrow the infrared thermometer from work and check now.


I can tell you that My Intake Temps Never make it over 125 degrees! So running it thru the pump warm wont hurt it!
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by BlilBT View Post
I can tell you that My Intake Temps Never make it over 125 degrees! So running it thru the pump warm wont hurt it!
Also, you would want to have coolant go from the H/E directly to the Manifold to make sure you are getting the coolest temps possible for the coolant to cool the air. If you have the coolant heat up 5 degrees when passing from the H/E back to the pump and then up to the manifold, you have just added 5 degrees to your ITA2, which is much worse than running your I/C pump 5 degrees hotter.
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
Also, you would want to have coolant go from the H/E directly to the Manifold to make sure you are getting the coolest temps possible for the coolant to cool the air. If you have the coolant heat up 5 degrees when passing from the H/E back to the pump and then up to the manifold, you have just added 5 degrees to your ITA2, which is much worse than running your I/C pump 5 degrees hotter.
I've heard of one guy blow his pump after doing the dual pass. This is why I am concerned.

And you're only assuming the pump increases the temps, I'll do some investigation on this.
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Old 05-16-2007, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BCobaltSS View Post
Those bottom bolts are pretty much a night mare and you have to remove the water pump just to get to them . You pretty much have to turmn the wrnch quarter tuen flip the wrench then turn another quarter tun till it is out. Pain in the [email protected]#. Oh an I noticed on mine since I have had in for a month now that make sure you extend the top and bottom hoses far enough towards the front of the car so the middle hose does not rub on it . I mabe that mistake and I put a piece of rubber beteen them . Hope it goes good for you and don't forget about the 1/4'' line for OPTION B to connect to the top part of the core and you have to pop the grill fastners back and peel back the grill to see the plug. That where the 1/4'' hose goes.

Have fun I know I did hahhaha ugh.
I have an air ratchet ..... unless the air ratchet wont fit. but ill find a way!
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Old 05-16-2007, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mase View Post
I've heard of one guy blow his pump after doing the dual pass. This is why I am concerned.

And you're only assuming the pump increases the temps, I'll do some investigation on this.
Its not so much a matter of the pump itself increasing temps, more of a matter that all the hoses and pump are a longer length between H/E outlet and manifold inlet, and that means more time exposed to heat coming off of the engine, radiator, and such. Obviously, my numbers are just a guess, it may be so insignificant that you will not see a difference either way. I just doubt that drawing the warm coolant into the pump is any harder on it than drawing the cool coolant into the pump. The actual pump is separate from the motor, which is air cooled, so I doubt flow direction makes any difference on pump temps. Now if the guy that blew the pump installed his cores backwards... that added strain could cause a pump failure. Installer error....
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Old 05-16-2007, 02:43 PM
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good analysis, we pretty much kept the the flow jsut like stock since it made a lil more sense to do it this way rather than gms way at the time, we kinda goofed on the whole bleeding process and now we understand what needs to be done, mase will get the final touches and connections done tonight and monitor the iat2s.
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Old 05-17-2007, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
Its not so much a matter of the pump itself increasing temps, more of a matter that all the hoses and pump are a longer length between H/E outlet and manifold inlet, and that means more time exposed to heat coming off of the engine, radiator, and such. Obviously, my numbers are just a guess, it may be so insignificant that you will not see a difference either way. I just doubt that drawing the warm coolant into the pump is any harder on it than drawing the cool coolant into the pump. The actual pump is separate from the motor, which is air cooled, so I doubt flow direction makes any difference on pump temps. Now if the guy that blew the pump installed his cores backwards... that added strain could cause a pump failure. Installer error....
insulate the hose with aluminized vent tape. that will help the coolant from heating up from engine bay temps. either way you run the plumbing with the pump according to your beliefs this would be a important extra trick. the idea is to shield the hose similarly done by factory GM on the heater core hoses. they are more agressive with protection there due to the exhaust header. aluminized tape should be enough but there might be better things. the alluminum corragated hose protector like the block heater hoses would be considered to be the best.

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
NO, it is 1 hp for every 11 degrees.
well that could be to some point except if you having problems with overheating your fuel charge and trying to prevent detonation from IAT being to high, right. IAT can get too high if you in the 130 to 140 as that would be heat soaked. want to be in the 90 to 110 range. I have seen 130 and 140 with my 2.6 (just got it) one evening. yesterday I was driving and air charge was 90 (IAT2). I hit the gas while do 40mph and the tires peeled out letting out a major squeal. I shifted the car to third and realized I was in second at the time. this car is crazy powerful now if IAT2 are in check. you know I am doing this mod very soon...LOL.

Originally Posted by gilbert View Post
ok question blown 4 banger i have the 2.6 pulley ,60#, C/A he and stock he, methanol inject, and ported housing .do u thinck i need the dual pass ?my iat2 is usually 150-155
Running meth than I would say it not necessary or vital. for HP it will help but seriously until you get some pistons why would you want to put more stress on those weak pistons. if you went to forged pistons already then all the power to you. you have every reason to max your power.

Originally Posted by Blown 4-banger View Post
The longer you are WOT the greater the temp decrease, because...
1. With the dual pass IAT2 increase slower.
2. With the dual pass, my IAT2 has been over 170 ONE time, and that was pre heatsoaked, and a 20-140 mph run.
3. With the dual pass IAT2 tends to level off around 165, and stock it will keep rising forever.
Man I think I found the only benefit to living in canada. my IAT2 only gets up to 130 cause were cooler up here I hear of 165 and 150 lol and I am stock at 90 to 130.lol but summers coming so that will all change our temperatures swing from -40 to 100 F. no ****.

Originally Posted by BlackSS/SC View Post
I just finished the dualpass endplate and the extra coolant bottle. I used the Ion Redline's stock coolant bottle and put it on the passenger side and made a couple simple brakets to hold it there on the stock studs that stick up there. Haven't been able to see the difference yet on IATs.... Too much damn snow

any differences now?

Last edited by Asphalt Assault; 05-17-2007 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 05-17-2007, 09:51 AM
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well be testing mine out tonite.
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Old 05-18-2007, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
Also, you would want to have coolant go from the H/E directly to the Manifold to make sure you are getting the coolest temps possible for the coolant to cool the air. If you have the coolant heat up 5 degrees when passing from the H/E back to the pump and then up to the manifold, you have just added 5 degrees to your ITA2, which is much worse than running your I/C pump 5 degrees hotter.
It does go from the Dual pass H/E >>. Back to the Manifold! Then thru The Intake Manifold>> Then Back out to the Pump for the return Trip! The Temps on the dual Pass are alot lower than the Stock temps! So in return your Coolant temps goin thru the Pump are Cooler than they were when the car had the stock cooling system, The Pump will run cooler than stock & Should last longer!
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Old 05-18-2007, 08:59 AM
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so BLILBT the setup we did will work just fine right?
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Old 05-18-2007, 09:31 AM
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my car temperature is at 189 F

Is it normal a 189F temperature on a stock ss/sc?
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:36 AM
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I got a question. What mixture of anti-freeze and water you guys running? Add any thing else to the fluid?

I'm asking because antifreeze has about 50% of the heat handling capabilities of water. So with the stock 50/50 mix, you have about 75% the efficiency of pure water. You should always stay at least 20% antifreeze no matter what, but with a 20/80 split, you would have 90% the efficiency of pure water. Add in some Redline Water Wetter or Royal Purple Purple Ice and you would actually get a higher efficiency then pure water. Meaning you would see about a 30~35% increase in exchanger performance.
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by distillion View Post
so BLILBT the setup we did will work just fine right?
Option A works OK
Option B Is the way to go & Route it the same way Gm tells you to!
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Old 05-19-2007, 12:49 AM
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we just thought routing the plumbing the way mentioned in previous posts made a bit more sense as apposed to GMs way since thats how it was connected before.
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Old 05-19-2007, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by distillion View Post
we just thought routing the plumbing the way mentioned in previous posts made a bit more sense as apposed to GMs way since thats how it was connected before.
I'm Not sure if it will have the same effect or Not, What Layout are you setting up! Another words How are you routing it!
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Old 05-21-2007, 01:49 AM
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anyone know what the IAT2 temp is for stock and GMS2. I hit 164 yesterday. I was amazed how guickly it moved up! I need to do more than this little bit of cooling. Gotta go full blown here or just a bigger pulley for now. many problems with 2.7"?
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Old 05-21-2007, 01:52 AM
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thats seems a tad high, we found out today for some reason my setup isnt bleeding properly, its almost like its working in reverse and my surge tank is filling with coolant instead of it depleteing.............
it was goin down and topped it twice, then today it was abnormaly high, and bubbles were coming out of the hose that is connected to the bottom of the surge tank......
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:13 AM
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just to clarify my intercooling is stock.
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:16 AM
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i never saw temps that high.
running a 2.7 pulley.
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by distillion View Post
i never saw temps that high.
running a 2.7 pulley.
I am running 2.6 so how high did you get?
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by distillion View Post
thats seems a tad high, we found out today for some reason my setup isnt bleeding properly, its almost like its working in reverse and my surge tank is filling with coolant instead of it depleteing.............
it was goin down and topped it twice, then today it was abnormaly high, and bubbles were coming out of the hose that is connected to the bottom of the surge tank......

The surge tank is suppose to maintain a Level Fill when running after all the air is gone! It took mine about 50 Miles to Bleed out all the air!
Just make sure your flow is from the pump to the stock H/E to the 2nd H/E Then back to the center port! On the 2 out Lines should be your 1 st Tee then a small piece of Hose & then your 2nd Tee! Off that Tee 1 3/4 hose goes to the revesvoir & the other goes to the Pump In!
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:12 PM
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fixed
wot in second, hit 120 degrees max
wot in 3rd 138 degrees
crusing on highway 85 degrees
idles reaches highest 136-138, then drops to 125 and remains there until moving.
crusing the streets 100-115, depending on traffic.
this is on a 2.7 pulley.
the piping just had to be rerouted because there wasnt enough flow goin to the heat exchanger, other than that we changed nothing in our setup.
the only thing is that we still see bubbles in the tank coming from the bottom where the hose is attached and not exactly sure why.
we retune on wed
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:21 PM
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the only thing we did was move the T-fitting to the bottom near the pump and point the straight through of the T to wards the heat exchanger and the bend towards the tank higher up.

85*F, sick!
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:26 PM
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i must say you are the man
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:22 PM
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does anybody have a diagram of option B...include the "Y" fitting and if you used the 0.040" orifice. I can't understand the one that GM has
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