best news i've heard all day.

 

yeah man, a friend of mine runs his own shop, and is very interested in getting into the cobalts, but for the serious modded, IE turbo'd cars and such. Should be a nice fuel system to start off with. I just can't wait to get it in my car cause I need it bad, damn car just leans out now over 6000rpm so I gotta be easy on the car til then

 

Let me know if you guys would offer something as a complete kit.

I would be interested. I think Dan's car is getting done by the guy that fabbed his turbo after he bring me the engine tomorrow and I rebuild it with a forged bottom end. We gave his fabricator the 2.2 return rail I had and an extra fuel canister for him to fab up a system but he won't be offering them as kits afaik.

 

Why don't you just copy this setup that has already been done by jgarciarivera? Are we going for something cleaner or what?

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...showthread.php

 

like the proE modelling, but what are we expecting from this blower?

 

We should be setting it up as a complete kit if there is enough interest, Actually the guy should be signing up on this site today, so once he's on I'll link him to the threads so you can ask him directly

that's pretty much what I'm going to do for now, but it's easier for people to buy something already bundled and all lines already cut to length etc etc. Should be a nice install judging by all the other work this shop does (definitely some of the cleanest installs I've seen)

 

I got ya. A kit would surely be nice for those wanting to enter that territory for sure.

 

So this would be a compatible kit with all the eco's?

 

if the fuel systems are the same yeah, but that I don't know yet as I haven't had much a chance to work on the 2.4's

 

Assuming it functioned as designed, sure. That's not what I'm worried about. I've seen 100's of fpr diaphrams fail, and I'm not sure I believe that the one in the dampner would be any stronger.

Paul (and anyone else interested in a nice, clean looking engine bay):

http://www.saturnmotorsports.com/cat...roducts_id=575

 

thats a nice piece right there. I'm going to start with the 2.2 rail I have now, but that's more along the lines of what I want to run.

 

Here's another one. It's available with AN -10 fittings, too. But it looks kinda funny.

http://www.imageinmotion.com/GOLDENE...3-GFR106-P.htm

Here's another Aeromotive regulator: (Black to match )

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

And for anyone who's thinking about an Ecotec in their boat:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Yes, I do think that'd be fun....

 

Thats a purty fuel rail man. I may just have to order that

 

http://www.imageinmotion.com/GOLDENE...3-GFR106-P.htm

does this rail fit our car? cause if it does i going 2 buy it

 

you have small wing?

witt, yes it was. i was frazzled at work

 

Yea. I have small, want big. Story of my life.

Pics in gallery...

 

A regulator diaphram could fail and affect pressure since theres a pressure delta to each side of the regulator but that can't happen to a damper since it doesn't control pressure. It would have to physically block the return line and since its not near it, I don't see that happening. If it leaked out of the damper and into the atmosphere then it would drop pressure. Thats a failure of the mounting bolts, not the damper itself. The pressure would have to be relieved to something.

 

I kinda figure it the damper failed, it would just be doing nothing. Thus, it would be acting just like if it wasn't there. But, I think I'll take one apart and see what I think before I make any decisions.

 

wasnt this thread about a supercharger its not about wings or homebrew turbos

 

Yeah, the LSJ is completely closed.

The one that bolted onto the 2002 2.2 cavie one has a vacuum reference port and could leak through the diaphram.

Until Harrop releases more information, pretty much everybody's questions have been answered.

 

Key term in bold ^

 

A simple question, that may require a complex explaination:

Q: When you guys talk "Pulley size", where are you measuring it?

(Complex part ...)
Option 1: Measure with vernier calipers across the peaks of the ridges in the area the belt runs. This is the way we (Harrop) typically describe the size for aftermarket applications.

Option 2: Place known size dowels (typically 2.4mm for 6PK) dimetrically opposite in a groove, and measure over the dowels. The recorded distance is then known as 000.00 DOB (Distance Across *****). This is the method we use when dealing with OE applications, and is the more "correct" method. We usually chase a tolerance of +/-0.05mm.

Option 3: Using a ruler, tape, piece of string, or your boy/girl-friends bra-strap: measure over the outside of the drive belt as it wraps around the pulley. A response of 14B is typical, and of no help at all. This is the method used by most Skoda drivers.

Option 4: Reciting the number engraved/etched on the pulley. This is the method used by those individuals who do not need to respond to this question.

Thanks ...

 

lol!

 

 

According to my calipers and nate's pulley, option 1 appears the way (my young paddowan).

Although I will add that I used option 4 untill about 3 minutes ago.