ZZPerformance - LSJ M62 Spacer Plate #ZZ-LSJM62SP

that the link for the plates, it should be fairly straight forward to dremel them to form 2 halves of the second intercooler. sourcing the radiator or heater core should be fairly simple as well and its possible to have one custom made for the exact measurements of the system. i would be temped to run a 4 core motorcycle radiator so that you can split the in hose and out hose. you dont want this system to act as a restriction on flow in the system if your going to use a single pump and coolant supply. would look awesome having the 1 inch plate under the blower with 4 stainless braided lines coming out the bottom of it.
i would run the fresh coolant into the lim first so that the coldest fluid is hitting the air before it hits the head. you dont want the fluid preheated by the first intercooler.

 

that is definately the least expensive simplest way to add more intercooling power to the system after the ported single pass LIM. pm euthanasia here on the forums for that. he did mine and its the *****. fair price, excellent work. and best of all if the system yields zero additional power its easy to uninstall. the best way to help keep temps in the lim down is to help the motor move air better, long tube header, 3" dp to a full 3" exhaust and then if you have the cash port and polish the head. the less it has to squeeze the air the less the air will be heated.
be neat to see it done. if i had seen even a single horsepower different from 90 degree iat2s to 130 degree i would have already made one. still it would have coolness on its side.

 

I found very good info. Like you said, there are gains to obtain by reducing the air temperature but not that much. Take a look at the graph below.

For every 10-degree increase of engine intake air temperature the horsepower output drops 1%. As an example an engine that makes 100 HP breathing air at 60 degrees will only make 86 horsepower breathing air at 200 degrees.

So probably the maximum gains achievable are like 10 HP if you drop down to the minimum temp? I'm assuming here a 130 to 90 degrees drop. I'm not sure how hot the Cobalt may get. I see your point, but I was looking for data to verify your comments.




Also, as you pointed out, porting the head is the key to get most of the performance. So I guess my research will be now on looking for a heat-exchanger.

Also, altitude plays an important role.

 

Griffin h/e

 

Who sells it or where can I find it? Ok, found it, OTTP sells it.

I was thinking of adding something like this:





Or this one:

 

do research. griffin race h/e is best. but whatever, you are doing good internet research, but actual field testing is the ultimate test and that is very expensive to do- u may test all sorts of configurations and spend money buying different parts and come up with a fundemental conclusion.

That is, someone, somewhere has tried what you want to do, and come up with the same conclusions you will arrive at. Good luck in your quest.

 

That's what I'm doing, researching. I'm still learning as I read stuff. I was not even aware of this Griffin HE.

Agreed on your last comment. Yeah I would like to come with the best configuration as possible.

 

the griffin is the best from what numbers ive found but my zzp stg 3 he was a very easy install, i mean like holy ****, that took 10 minutes. and it works the *****. like i said though, that graph not withstanding my hp was exactly the same on all 4 pulls, first one ending a 90 degrees, last one at 130. i imagine at 150 plus it starts to pull timing and you lose power, but as long as your not reaching that point there arent any gains to be made. it took literally 4 back to back dyno pulls to get the temps to touch 130 and they dropped back down immediately after. im running a euthanasia single pass converted lim, phenolic spacer, option b and the zzp stage 3 he. my temps are excellent. im going to add a griffin at some point but i wont remove the stg 3, ill run them in series just like it is now. thats just to help her keep temps down if im on a prolonged road race of some kind, it will never come up at the track.

 

Found out good information on this site in regards to CFM of parts.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...j-parts-67539/

 

funny everyone says griffin works the best but theres no actual data on it from memebers hmm? i run the ZZP stage 3 dual pass with opt B and have done back to back drag runs that only vary within a tenth of the first run. I had rwd guys telling me i needed to be bracket racing. Thats results enough for me right there.

 

I went to the Griffin site and there is no data in regards to performance.

 

you wont find any. Just people that say griffin is best. Ive spoken personally to people that run it, (they decided not to post their results since theyre sub par) and my temps blow theirs out the water. needless to say they kicked themselves in the ass because they arent cheap either

 

Yeah, they're not cheap.

 

Updated first post. Added reference links.

 

Any progress? and ya I know, thread from the dead.