Turbo progress is finally underway. Gutted engine bay pics inside!
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
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From: Mo-town, WV
#1 our heads don't flow nearly the amount those car do, so you aren't going to see that power (500whp) on stock cam's head. Just isn't going to happen. Also it's an aluminum block (but apparently good to retarded hp numbers)
I'm not in here to start a **** storm, just trying to help point you in the right direction and clear up some misconceptions I see in here. And trust me, I love seeing turbo'd LSJ's out beating up on everything else, it's why I built up my car.
As for spending gobs of money, well ****, you get what you pay for. I was offered an opportunity by a few companies to test things, and **** who's going to say no to that. But everything on my car was built, tested, and tuned by me, in my driveway. No shop, no help (cept a little on the 1st setup) And pretty much no knowledge on turbo charging. I build old school muscle cars and V8's this is my first foray into the wonderful world of 4-bangers, and **** I think I did pretty well so far.
Anyway, back to the thread, I'm on lunch.
I'm not in here to start a **** storm, just trying to help point you in the right direction and clear up some misconceptions I see in here. And trust me, I love seeing turbo'd LSJ's out beating up on everything else, it's why I built up my car.
As for spending gobs of money, well ****, you get what you pay for. I was offered an opportunity by a few companies to test things, and **** who's going to say no to that. But everything on my car was built, tested, and tuned by me, in my driveway. No shop, no help (cept a little on the 1st setup) And pretty much no knowledge on turbo charging. I build old school muscle cars and V8's this is my first foray into the wonderful world of 4-bangers, and **** I think I did pretty well so far.
Anyway, back to the thread, I'm on lunch.
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From: Horseheads, NY
haha...punctured oil cooler ftl...new one in the mail already tho. I just need to reinstall the oil cooler and parts removed to access it, refill fluids, install like 20 push pins that i have no idea where they are and its good to go
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From: Somewhere
And yes I am stirring up quite a **** storm here, but it's because the SS and Redlines came with (in my eyes) the same kind of motor that you see in Evos, DSMs, Supras, etc. It can make that mark on history when you look back in 50 years like the men of old do today and say oh man I'd love me a 454 big block or 427. The DSM guys already get it with the 4G63 because it's been tested and improved upon for the past 20 years.
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From: Land of Freedom
The aluminum block is good to the 1000hp mark because of it's great design implement: A stiff as hell girdle and iron cylinder sleeves. Port the head out and throw some cams in (hey, everyone else has to do it also) and you'll see the same power levels they're making. I will guarentee the stock bottom end with some forged pistons will make 500whp ALL DAY LONG. Okay so the car needs cams and therefore some springs and shims to breathe a little better, big deal. I bet the small amount that I will open the exhaust side of the head up will allow it to flow all it needs to in order to reach my goal of 500 pump gas wheel horsepower.
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From: winnipeg
Only thing that I cant figure out is whats the difference between a "fabbed together kit" and a "non fabbed together kit". In my eyes every turbo kit needs to be fabricated (fabbed) from something so whats the difference if a large company does it or if I fabricate my own kit in my garage like others have????????? I guess StreetDreamz kit will be just as "fabbed" as anyone elses out there.
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From: south of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
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From: Kakabeka Falls, Ontario
The aluminum block is good to the 1000hp mark because of it's great design implement: A stiff as hell girdle and iron cylinder sleeves. Port the head out and throw some cams in (hey, everyone else has to do it also) and you'll see the same power levels they're making. I will guarentee the stock bottom end with some forged pistons will make 500whp ALL DAY LONG. Okay so the car needs cams and therefore some springs and shims to breathe a little better, big deal. I bet the small amount that I will open the exhaust side of the head up will allow it to flow all it needs to in order to reach my goal of 500 pump gas wheel horsepower.
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From: Mo-town, WV
You don't need stainless until about 1,000. 500 is fine. You're beating a dead horse here bud, we've been over and over and over this. GM has been doing it since like 2002.
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From: Kakabeka Falls, Ontario
The sleeves that came with your engine from the factory are only good to about 450hp (400hp in the build book) - after that, it is just gambling on your part.
...and that is just the way it is - direct from GM themselves - no dead horses to beat...all mine are running around just fine.
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From: Mo-town, WV
No...they have not. The stock CAST iron liners need to be changed out for upgraded solid iron liners between 450-500hp of output. If you are using solid iron, they will need to be changed out at 800hp for nodular iron sleeves and the head / liners will need to be machined to accept O-rings and you will have to "uni-bolt" the head and block together. Check the Pro Ecotec Race Engine Handbook - Page 29 and 30.
The sleeves that came with your engine from the factory are only good to about 450hp (400hp in the build book) - after that, it is just gambling on your part.
...and that is just the way it is - direct from GM themselves - no dead horses to beat...all mine are running around just fine.
The sleeves that came with your engine from the factory are only good to about 450hp (400hp in the build book) - after that, it is just gambling on your part.
...and that is just the way it is - direct from GM themselves - no dead horses to beat...all mine are running around just fine.
Yessa massa. Whatever you says a massa. So sorry massa. I've never had an Ecotec past like 500hp or something I guess 
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From: Land of Freedom
wow thats funny. GM showed me a block that had cracked all the way around and the top half of it was only held together to the bottom by the sleeves. and that was around 1200hp. head **** out around 1400
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From: Kakabeka Falls, Ontario
Plus - when GM builds up a block, they dont just pull one off the shelf and go to town - it is checked and rechecked for cracks, re-sleeved with aftermarket nodular iron sleeves along with a bunch of other modifications for durability. This is done with all engines in their race program. GM does not build upgraded sleeves for the Ecotec.
"wow thats funny. GM showed me a block that had cracked all the way around and the top half of it was only held together to the bottom by the sleeves. and that was around 1200hp. head **** out around 1400" <- What was this engine from...race program???
I am not getting into a pissing match - simple fact is that the stock sleeves are CAST and are much weaker than a nodular iron or stainless steel sleeve. If you are going above 450HP, why NOT resleeve? IF you dont want to do it - fine. But dont go around telling others that the stock, cast sleeves are good to over 1000hp - because that is certainly not the case.
Grow up. You may have had an ecotec over 500hp. Have you torture tested it? How much does it see full load? If *I* were to jump in it, would you have full confidence that it would be reliable and stand up to repeated WOT runs? (basically, my goal would be to have it **** out a sleeve).
If you have a daily driver that only sees full load about 5% of the time, you may only brush the limits of the stock sleeves briefly....again, this is simply gambling and one day you will roll on the throttle and pop an engine. YOu put any track time on that car and actually run the car, you will quickly see where the flaws are. You build it right and it will just ask for more.
"wow thats funny. GM showed me a block that had cracked all the way around and the top half of it was only held together to the bottom by the sleeves. and that was around 1200hp. head **** out around 1400" <- What was this engine from...race program???
I am not getting into a pissing match - simple fact is that the stock sleeves are CAST and are much weaker than a nodular iron or stainless steel sleeve. If you are going above 450HP, why NOT resleeve? IF you dont want to do it - fine. But dont go around telling others that the stock, cast sleeves are good to over 1000hp - because that is certainly not the case.
If you have a daily driver that only sees full load about 5% of the time, you may only brush the limits of the stock sleeves briefly....again, this is simply gambling and one day you will roll on the throttle and pop an engine. YOu put any track time on that car and actually run the car, you will quickly see where the flaws are. You build it right and it will just ask for more.
Last edited by Pully Police; Sep 17, 2008 at 02:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
