Ya, I'm pretty sure I was there over a year ago. They wanted 6k and to basically build the whole motor and give it back to me.

 

I have only had them perform the short block work, and I did the assembly;
if they assemble it, there is a warranty that comes with it;
I personally wouldn't have D&W do any cylinder heads, but that's me - instead I'd talk to Billy over at 'Economy Cylinder Heasds' off of Ogden Road - he too would know other good places to do engine work (he's been in the industry at least as long as D&W), Billy is about as good a guy as I know in the industry (but I haven't talked to him in a couple years).

 

I wasn't overly impressed at the way D&W told me they would install the new sleeves. They would basically freeze them (can't remember if they would use N2 or not) and then they would heat the block as well to make sure they had enough clearance for the sleeve to slide all the way down the cylinder. I'm pretty sure he said they would use N2 but I'm not positive

 

resleeving is a very expensive process, which I beleive essentially works under the premise of heated(expanded) overbored (damaged) cylinder sleeve, and a super cooled (shrunk) replacement sleeve is pressed in;
that insert is then bored to the proper size.

I only know one guy who sleeved a block, everyone else generally opts to go the cheaper route, and replace the block.

Besides, if you wanted a song & dance from a machine shop, I am sure several in tow would be willing (since it seems like most are all-hype)...

But what I would like to know is, why would you be resleeving a block anyway?

 

Stock sleeves and stock rods are the next weak point after replacing the pistons. Mr.B can have my block sleeved for $35 a cylinder and bored and decked for well under what it costs up here. Why is everything so much more expensive up here? Oh and he can have it race balanced for a few more.

I do understand that engine work isn't cheap but when it's significantly higher up here than it is down there, that tells me that something is wrong in the equation

I'll probably pack up my block and corresponding parts and have it shipped to him for the work

 

Mr. B sleeves are a great option. They utilize the stock sleeve hole so there is no machining of the block needed to remove material to make room for the Dartons. Darton's are great as well, but for our platform you take a chance with them and once you install them, there is no going back because of all the material removed. Mr. B sleeved gen 1 = good times.

 

I have no idea what "Mr B" is, but often you will see cheaper costs in a labor intensive job done state side because "illegals" are employed;
if you're paying a technician $30/hr, plus the cost of parts, plus wear and tear, it does get up there;
plus many parts here come from the states, so you as a canadian customer are paying another markup...
then there's the fact that local market plays into price to.

I just trust you're doing your research.

 

Mr. Belvedere on here, John Walters is his name. He developed these sleeves as a "drop in" solution. By that I mean that they go into the stock location, but are much stronger than factory. Not as strong as Darton's I'm sure but they aren't meant to be pushed to like 700+hp. They allow you to keep your block intact and not machine out a bunch of material in the supports.

The stock sleeves will hold up just fine if you send your block into zzp for them to girdle it, but John's sleeves seem to be a great option for a reasonable price...or do both and have a brick **** house of a gen 1 motor lol

 

Ya I threw around that idea. And for John to sell me sleeves, install them and do all the machine work was $750. Cheeeeap. What wasn't was getting my block shipped to and from him.... And hoping it gets there in one piece. IMO the best bank for the buck on an all out built motor is one from Mongorat. He can build you a very solid 2.0 Gen 3 all forged for like $2500. So cheap.

 

Agreed. Mongo's little builds he is doing look like they should be stout. Gen 3 really is the way to go now days. The sleeves and block are just so much stronger then the previous versions.

 

unless I've missed something, this is in the context of building a Chevrolet 454;
reasoning or need to resleeve aside, some blocks are not durable enought to build, so cylinder wall thickness might be a moot point.

 

You're missing something lol. Jon said this which turned into machine shop talk. He's talking abut his Balt motor.

 

ya, I was wondering why he was referencing my truck lol. The procharger is going on it and If it pops, I'll rebuild it again

My truck motor cost me 9.5K from removal to install with the other parts I supplied. It would be more around 11.5k

 

So everyone died in this thread?

 

Ah good ol strathmore! Gotta love a paid hotel and meals for a week of safety training! Lol

 

h2s alive? haha

 

That and and a few other ones

 

now picture this, your a roughneck, first week, u get put on a sour hole, your working in the motor room washing coveralls and 2 ppl walk in with full breathing gear..............the emergency light in the motor room on that rig was burnt out and/or not wired properly........sweet eh?

 

I would have bolted past them.

Industrial firefighting and defensive driving! I get the fun courses this time!

 

Hey guys!
I have been in contact with a local who owns a 2010 SS;
he's now blown his transmission.
Does anyone have leads on another F35 (preferably one with LSD)?

I am willing to part with mine, but only if the guy can't find one elsewhere - as I won't be cheap.

Jon - are you at all interested in selling your spare?

 

I might be making some presumptions, but I've understood that he's open to SC & HHR (4.05:1FDR) & TC (3.82:1FDR) F35's - and I'm also presuming he would prefer the LSD.

 

Nope Christmas prepirations commensed...

 

hmm, looks like I posted too soon - he found one.

 

hey mark u back at the shop more often these days?

 

yes