Drivetrain Transmission, LSD, Clutch, Driveline, Axles...

Can you run Solid Engine mounts and rotated trans mount?

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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:17 AM
  #26  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by aebooth6
Are stage 2 Ottp rotated mounts all I need to stop wheel hop? No engine mount?

2009 SS/TC zzp catted dp, k&n sri, muffler delete, zzp tuned pcm, zzp fmic
Yes. The stock upper engine mount is more than adequate.

You can save some money and just purchase a S1 rotated mount and run a SS/TC rear mount. You will get just about the same wheel hop reduction with a little less vibes.

Good tires and suspension will help with wheel hop as well.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:51 AM
  #27  
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Not beating the crap out of your car also helps with wheel hop.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 07:53 AM
  #28  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by chris88z24
Not beating the crap out of your car also helps with wheel hop.
or even better.... learning to drive, lol.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
Yes. The stock upper engine mount is more than adequate. You can save some money and just purchase a S1 rotated mount and run a SS/TC rear mount. You will get just about the same wheel hop reduction with a little less vibes. Good tires and suspension will help with wheel hop as well.
Wouldn't that cost more? Buying a rear engine mount is $150 and a s1 trans mount is $100. The s2 trans mounts are $200.lol

2009 SS/TC zzp catted dp, k&n sri, muffler delete, zzp tuned pcm, zzp fmic
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 09:37 AM
  #30  
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what about running stage one trans mounts and the zzp or ttr motor mount? the stage ones arent quiet as stiff
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 09:41 AM
  #31  
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If you run a mount that rotates, you cannot run a solid TAM. Period.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 09:59 AM
  #32  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by aebooth6
Wouldn't that cost more? Buying a rear engine mount is $150 and a s1 trans mount is $100. The s2 trans mounts are $200.lol

2009 SS/TC zzp catted dp, k&n sri, muffler delete, zzp tuned pcm, zzp fmic
huh??

The SS/TC rear trans mount is $86 new from CED. I paid $50 new back in the day.

You can get a used one as well.

If you have an SS/TC, you are already set. Buy a S1 mount and call it a day.

I mentioned to get the rear SS/TC trans mount because it will cause less vibrations and is just as good at reducing wheel hop.

Last edited by Staged07SS; Dec 10, 2014 at 10:20 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 10:04 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
or even better.... learning to drive, lol.
That too. Although the stock mounts suck even for daily driving because of all the slop.

I have powells front mount and a spacer under the ss Tc rear mount and it's awesome. The very few times I have gotten hop I just let off the gas. Big deal lol
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 10:19 AM
  #34  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by chris88z24
That too. Although the stock mounts suck even for daily driving because of all the slop.

I have powells front mount and a spacer under the ss Tc rear mount and it's awesome. The very few times I have gotten hop I just let off the gas. Big deal lol
Thats what I run.

Also, people need to start understanding the stock upper engine mount it more than adequate for a performance setup. A solid upper mount is only going to cause excess vibrations.

As blackssstg2 mentions.... do not run a solid upper engine mount with a rotated trans mount.

Last edited by Staged07SS; Dec 10, 2014 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
Thats what I run. Also, people need to start understanding the stock upper engine mount it more than adequate for a performance setup. A solid upper mount is only going to cause excess vibrations. As blackssstg2 mentions.... do not run a solid upper engine mount with a rotated trans mount.
Lol seriously. There's a reason why there are 700+hp muscle cars on the market with rubber-style mounts. They must like the vibes up their ass, only way I can see people enjoying solid mounts.

Last edited by Staged07SS; Dec 10, 2014 at 11:47 AM. Reason: spelling in quote
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 10:40 AM
  #36  
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what about the turbo tech racing transmission race mounts would they be good to swap into the mounts in an lnf or are they the equivalent to the lnf bushing set up
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 11:37 AM
  #37  
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The ONLY time I would use solid mounts is if I drag raced my car (ie trailered to a drag strip) 100% of the time and didn't give a **** about breaking things.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 02:30 PM
  #38  
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What about upgrading the control arms??

On an LSJ, stock mounts, no stiffy, would upgrading the control arms help limit hop and keep a smooth ride??
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 07:38 PM
  #39  
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by UnkleRaRa
What about upgrading the control arms??

On an LSJ, stock mounts, no stiffy, would upgrading the control arms help limit hop and keep a smooth ride??
u wouldn't upgrade the control arm.... u would upgrade the bushings in the control arm.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 10:46 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
u wouldn't upgrade the control arm.... u would upgrade the bushings in the control arm.
Gotcha.... I have COB's just waiting to be installed.... But thats a spring job....No point trying to launch in subzero temps! lol.

I've looked at these a few times a just wondered how they are:
ZZPerformance - ZZP Control Arms for Cobalt/Redline #ZZ-CA-CBT-BLACK

I can't tell really looking at the reviews.

Someone bought these to cure high speed braking.... when im sure they just needed new rotors or tie-rods.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 11:37 AM
  #41  
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M62 ecotec sunfire I had poly(stiffer than stock) engine mount, trans mount, and ctrl arm bushing installed for the last 200k of its life.

The shifting was a lot better and it felt more beast, but the vibrations were a bit too much for a pleasant DD. I could bear it back in my early 20's but not anymore in my late 20's. Don't even think about turning on AC it makes it 2 times as worse. And holding a doobie while holding the steering wheel it could shake the cheery right off onto your pants/floor.
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