Lets end the clutch confusion!!
well imo now having 3 different clutches in my car
Stock clutch = pretty damn good, held over 400whp for over a year before finally letting go, and I beat on my car, just drive it right. Didn't like WOT shifts though as the pressure plate is pretty weak.
Exedy = ridiculousness, if you don't need it, don't get it. worked amazing in my car from 440whp-550whp though
Spec 2+ really not bad on the street at all, gets a little chatter when it gets hot in traffic though, and stay away from the lightweight flywheel if you do a lot of city stop and go crap. I hate it. (fidenza lightweight)
as for not resurfacing the stock flywheel, they have a step in them, so I guess that's why, and with limited travel of the slave, I guess that can have a negative effect on full disengagement.
if you're staying on the stock m62 and no nitrous, gmpp is the way to go.
anything under 400whp, spec 2+ is nice on the street
Stock clutch = pretty damn good, held over 400whp for over a year before finally letting go, and I beat on my car, just drive it right. Didn't like WOT shifts though as the pressure plate is pretty weak.
Exedy = ridiculousness, if you don't need it, don't get it. worked amazing in my car from 440whp-550whp though
Spec 2+ really not bad on the street at all, gets a little chatter when it gets hot in traffic though, and stay away from the lightweight flywheel if you do a lot of city stop and go crap. I hate it. (fidenza lightweight)
as for not resurfacing the stock flywheel, they have a step in them, so I guess that's why, and with limited travel of the slave, I guess that can have a negative effect on full disengagement.
if you're staying on the stock m62 and no nitrous, gmpp is the way to go.
anything under 400whp, spec 2+ is nice on the street
Im hard on my clutch...hell im hard on my car... And i have the GMPP clutch and love everything about it. But at the same time im not putting down high numbers by any means so i cant comment on how it holds power but everybody seems to say it does fine
I'm running GMS3 and still on the stock clutch at 64k miles versus my son on GMS2 and 2 clutches at 80k. We replaced the stock clutch with the Exedy Hyper Single. I absolutely hated driving it due to the amount of leg you had to put into it. I purchased the GMPP upgrade with flywheel, bolts, and clutch pipe. I keep it on the shelf until I need it. The clutch actuator (as GM calls it) will probably fail before my clutch does (unless the nitrous contributes to failure sooner).
If you are planning on making anywhere near 300 HP then i would get an aftermarket one rather than the GMPP if its the same as the one that came in my LNF
Mine didn't hold worth a **** and i burned it to hell in 2600 Miles at the track
Mine didn't hold worth a **** and i burned it to hell in 2600 Miles at the track
I dont predict your new clutch to last much either.
I hot lapped mine a few times at the track with 245/40/18 street tires before i knew how to drive and was slipping it hard off the line and it never slipped once on me... grabbed hard every time. God i used to be hard on my poor car
I can drive stick just fine
LNF stock clutch is **** and can't hold the power, upto you but since you are going to be in there why not install a better clutch
Also, the reason to not buy a "better" clutch is because...why? If it will hold up fine to the power levels, there no need to get a more expensive clutch that hinders driveability.
Sure, everyone could rock a exedy hypersingle, but the driveability sucks. I want to keep STOCK driveability, or as close to it as possible, since this is my DD. To some people, they dont care how hard the clutch is, but to many others they do, especially ones that drive it everyday. Theres no point getting a clutch that chatters, bites like a ****, and overall is an unpleasant clutch...when you just dont need it.
If he was going for a big power build, twin charge, nitrous, big turbo...course we'd suggest something more "heavy duty". Typical stage 2 under 300lbft setup he will do just fine.
Well most guys seem to do fine with the stocker. Its how you treat it.
Also, the reason to not buy a "better" clutch is because...why? If it will hold up fine to the power levels, there no need to get a more expensive clutch that hinders driveability.
Sure, everyone could rock a exedy hypersingle, but the driveability sucks. I want to keep STOCK driveability, or as close to it as possible, since this is my DD. To some people, they dont care how hard the clutch is, but to many others they do, especially ones that drive it everyday. Theres no point getting a clutch that chatters, bites like a ****, and overall is an unpleasant clutch...when you just dont need it.
If he was going for a big power build, twin charge, nitrous, big turbo...course we'd suggest something more "heavy duty". Typical stage 2 under 300lbft setup he will do just fine.
Also, the reason to not buy a "better" clutch is because...why? If it will hold up fine to the power levels, there no need to get a more expensive clutch that hinders driveability.
Sure, everyone could rock a exedy hypersingle, but the driveability sucks. I want to keep STOCK driveability, or as close to it as possible, since this is my DD. To some people, they dont care how hard the clutch is, but to many others they do, especially ones that drive it everyday. Theres no point getting a clutch that chatters, bites like a ****, and overall is an unpleasant clutch...when you just dont need it.
If he was going for a big power build, twin charge, nitrous, big turbo...course we'd suggest something more "heavy duty". Typical stage 2 under 300lbft setup he will do just fine.
Good points..So far, the clutch is up to the task. I don't do Launch control or NLSs either. I can guarntee that consistent use of those *options* will hammer the stock clutch. Having said that...if I had to go in an replace, I would probably use the Clutchmasters stage 2 or 3. They are identical except the stage 3 has a segmented disc. Both are Kevlar faces. I had the stage 2 (Full face) in my Camry SC for over 70K miles and it was VERY friendly and smooth. The pressure plate uses a design that requires far less peddle effort than clutches of equal clamping force.
bump for a question. I noticed you asked before about the stock or lightweight flywheel. Ive been searching around this website trying to figure out why everyone wants to keep the stock flywheel. Im not against it, but would like to know the reasons against getting lightened one.
bump for a question. I noticed you asked before about the stock or lightweight flywheel. Ive been searching around this website trying to figure out why everyone wants to keep the stock flywheel. Im not against it, but would like to know the reasons against getting lightened one.
http://www.autos.com/aftermarket-par...light-flywheel
From here..LNF is a dual mass FW:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lnf-performance-tech-153/flywheel-difference-150915/
Another tidbit:
In contrast, recent testing on a BMW E46 produced severe gear rattle whenever we replaced the dual mass flywheel with a lightened solid flywheel. Of course there was an increase in throttle response due to the light flywheel, but even when using a spring center disc we found the resulting gear noise objectionable. Further testing on these cars is ongoing to find a good alternative to the dual mass flywheel without suffering from gear rattle noise. In some cases, extensive testing and proper tuning of the torsional dampening under various conditions is the only way to bring gear noise to desirable levels.
And finally an SS TC *story* thread:
They won't let me post the Forum here.
i recently change my clutch and flywheel. im hearing all types of noises and sounds i never herd before. its complicated to describe them but i was wondering if anybody else has done a clutch and aluminum flywheel upgrade and has expeienced any problems.
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2009 Cobalt ss, imperial blue, fully loaded, dejon powerhouse intake, trifecta tune, Dejon BPV spring upgrade, Clutchmaster aluminum flywheel, Clutchmaster fx100 clutch(temporary), 20% tints, muffler delete, 235-40-18 direzza sport
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Its the lightweight flywheel. They chatter like crazy. As long as it sounds like the mechanic left a handful of bolts in there, it should be fine. It should sound like a cement mixer.
For example, I did an ACT heavy duty street clutch, and a Pro-Lite flywheel in my 350Z when i had it, and it sounded absolutely horrendous afterwards. What happens is the flywheel is lighter now, and the clutch resonates against it. In the Z, I went from a 24 lb stock, dual mass, flywheel, to a 12 lb aluminum flywheel.
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^ just what he said the trannies are noisy stock put the lightweight flywheel and bingo clothes dryer full of rocks
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yes its light weight, i don't have any chatter anymore cause the clutch is pretty much broken in. it does sound like a cement mixer so i feel alot better about the noises now. i was worried the throwout bearing may have been bad but im not getting any squeeling.
everything just sounds way different now. ive pretty much chalked it up to the different flywheel. Arron; the clutch is a clutchmasters stage 1.
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2009 Cobalt ss, imperial blue, fully loaded, dejon powerhouse intake, trifecta tune, Dejon BPV spring upgrade, Clutchmaster aluminum flywheel, Clutchmaster fx100 clutch(temporary), 20% tints, muffler delete, 235-40-18 direzza sport
Last edited by ronn; Jul 21, 2010 at 03:31 AM.
i got the gmp when i did my lsd install. It held great on the street but like maxium said when i run at langley in the turns it slips. When i win i have to keep hot lapping the car and it just cant take the heat, or alot of slippage to get off the line. I just added meth to my car and when it kicks in the GMP is like FFFFUUUU. But it was my mistake to buy a clutch that i was playing with its limits in terms of holding power. Im getting ready to swap in the spec stage3+ good price and can hold upwards of 500ftlbs
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